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Thread: Kawi 160 help!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
    --
    2,591
    Although it may not be the right carb, I also believe that you're right and that knob is the choke. It's technically an "enrichener" not a "choke. It does a similar job as an actual choke, but while a choke restricts the air flow in the carb, an enrichener lets more fuel into the carb. Both result in a rich fuel mixture. Most people don't realize that there's a difference. No matter what kind you have, it's still called a choke by the factory.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central M.I.
    --
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by 350for350 View Post
    Although it may not be the right carb, I also believe that you're right and that knob is the choke. It's technically an "enrichener" not a "choke. It does a similar job as an actual choke, but while a choke restricts the air flow in the carb, an enrichener lets more fuel into the carb. Both result in a rich fuel mixture. Most people don't realize that there's a difference. No matter what kind you have, it's still called a choke by the factory.
    Interesting, that makes sense, I am going to try to get this carb to work on it before I spend money on a new one.

    Why can't I just get the right size jets and put them in any 22mm carb that will fit? Just wondering, it seems like it would work, all it needs to run is air mixed with gas. I know it's a bit more complicated then that but I just wonder what is so hard about just swapping out any old carb that fits?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    East Kingston, NH
    --
    91
    The trike should still run with that carb cleaned up, even though it's probably the wrong one....Clean all jets, and orifices, including the needle jet, The needle jet is commonly overlooked and it's location is where the jet needle seats. It's a "pina" to remove so be careful as its made of brass. This part of the carb has tiny holes in it as well. Napa sells some carb cleaner in a bucket with a little basket that works great, but it may pricey....Another alternative would be "pine sol"....alot cheaper, good results
    Last edited by NETRA3; 02-14-2016 at 10:03 AM.
    '85 ATC350X
    '85 ATC110
    '85 ATC200X (gone)
    '84 ATC125m (gone)
    '86 Tecate 250 (gone)

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central M.I.
    --
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by NETRA3 View Post
    The trike should still run with that carb cleaned up, even though it's probably the wrong one....Clean all jets, and orifices, including the jet needle, The jet needle is commonly overlooked and it's location is where the needle jet seats. It's a "pina" to remove so be careful as its made of brass. This part of the carb has tiny holes in it as well. Napa sells some carb cleaner in a bucket with a little basket that works great, but it may pricey....Another alternative would be "pine sol"....alot cheaper, good results
    The Jet needle is the long needle at the end of the spring that attaches to the throttle right? Ok I sort of half ass took it apart to clean it but it was bad, it has some nasty black looking stuff in the bottom that was hardened, I had to scrape it out the run some cleaner round in the bowl. I'll go get some parts cleaner and take everything apart, I just have to remember where everything goes lol

    I love how active this forum is, thanks for all the help.
    Last edited by Tri-pod; 02-14-2016 at 02:18 AM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    East Kingston, NH
    --
    91
    That part your referring to is the ''jet needle''.....The one at the end of the spring/throttle slide, {I'm starting to confuse myself why they name them this way}......When you remove it from the carb body, look down inside, in the center, where the needle seats, it's brass...and is ''commonly'' called a ''needle jet''....Look at some exploded views of Mikuni carburetors and you'll see that it can be removed and cleaned. Sometimes if your performing a regular service, it could stay in place, but in your case, I would carefully remove an clean everything since your in there anyway, BTW, Don't use any cleaning product that will degrade rubber seals...sorry if there's any confusion, you'll be fine, Good luck.
    Last edited by NETRA3; 02-14-2016 at 10:20 PM.
    '85 ATC350X
    '85 ATC110
    '85 ATC200X (gone)
    '84 ATC125m (gone)
    '86 Tecate 250 (gone)

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central M.I.
    --
    33
    I think someone used some kind of nasty cleaner or something because where the rubber seat is supposed to be at the end of the flot needle there was just black chunks and it's gone.There was also some black gunk in the bowl and I'm wondering if there are other rubber parts that have melted out... So now I need to figure out what carb I do have and how to order the rubber for it, or maybe it's something I can get off another similar carb? That part of the carb seems pretty much the same on a lot of you tube videos I see on bike/atvs

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central M.I.
    --
    33
    So... I cleaned the carb up real good put it back on, its not leaking gas now so thats good. I have spark, yet still it wont fire, even with starting fluid. I am missing the air box so that might be part of it but from my experience if something has spark and wont at least sputter a little with starting fluid then there's something wrong inside the motor... any ideas on what to try next ? Im stumped other then trying to pull it with my YT in first gear and trying to get it to fire up

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,133
    If you were to pull start (or tug start w\e term you wana use), try 2nd or 3rd gear. It is reverse logic when spinning the engine over by the tires, higher the gear, the slower the engine spins, which is easier to do. First gear generally is too high geared for pull starting that way with most machines. My old 350 warrior couldn't be pull started unless in 3rd gear, it would just lock the tires up when I let the clutch out.

    If pull starting it does work, that would be a sign of a weak coil or incorrectly adjusted one for either the pulse generator, or the alternator (the side that goes to the cdi box, not the lighting coil). However you said you have spark, so pulling the engine over super fast probably isn't going to do much of anything different.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central M.I.
    --
    33
    well I almost got it going with pull starting it, everything seems to be working but the carb, its still pouring gas when i try to start. So Im buying a carb off someone here on the forum, they have the correct stock carb so I hope that will fix it !!!

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central M.I.
    --
    33
    SO I got the carb and it has a broken float valve (needle valve), it will run but its impossible to control the rpms, I have looked all over for a new float assembly with no luck. My next option is to ether try and find yet another used VM22ss carb or I found one with the same jetting as the original but it has the fanged end on it not the round one, not sure if I can just take the adapter off the motor and bolt the carb right on or not, but that's where I am at with it.
    On the plus side I did get to run through all the gears and test out reverse, everything worked great so once I get this carb situation figured out I think its going to be a nice little trike.
    This is the carb
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Miku...VWu18S&vxp=mtr
    I just found this
    http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Round-S.../dp/B003CK3IJK
    Anyone see any reason this wound not work ? Its the same jetting even though its a different carb
    Last edited by Tri-pod; 03-04-2016 at 01:56 AM.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New Britain, PA
    --
    67
    I have a carb if your still looking


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