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Thread: ATC 250r suspension tech

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Surprise AZ. In the garage working on trikes.
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    2,504
    Quote Originally Posted by loganm View Post
    Attachment 233014Attachment 233015

    They're a little heavier than the balloons, not by much though. Bearings are at the machine shop, once those are done I can put this swinger together.
    I dont have much to offer, but whats up with that dude who is laying on the ground, he might need some help getting up or at least a nice cool refreshing drink!!

  2. #47
    loganm is offline Competing with a gnat in reading comprehension. Current winner: Gnat. Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Kansas
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    364
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Clean View Post
    I dont have much to offer, but whats up with that dude who is laying on the ground, he might need some help getting up or at least a nice cool refreshing drink!!
    I told him I would do that radiator since I already know what not to do, but he's like no I'll do it. Then it leaks, because you have to unbolt the fan clutch wire holder thing to get the rad in without tearing it up.

  3. #48
    loganm is offline Competing with a gnat in reading comprehension. Current winner: Gnat. Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Kansas
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    Alright here's a bit of info on this swap, note that this might not be significantly cheaper than custom triples.

    2000-2007 cr125 forks
    ~2002 vtx 1800 triples
    200x front hub
    All balls taper bearing conversion for the head tube

    Alright so you will need to press the steering stem out of the clamps. Take the clamps and forks to a machine shop, the bottom clamp will need to be bored ~1 mm over, best to have the forks with you for a good fit. This is where it stops being cheap; the top clamp is too large, I had them machine me a couple sleeves out of aluminum, with a small flange so they won't fall through. You will have to grind the steering stop down significantly, but you can use the stock steering stop on the frame.

    You will have to have the steering stem turned down. The top bearing surface has to be brought down on the shaft ~1 5/8". The bottom surface will have to be turned down to fit the bottom bearing. The bottom bearing is slightly larger ID than the top. MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT TURN DOWN THE STEM WHERE IT PRESSES INTO THE TRIPLE. I still need to work out a shim stack. I'll get pics when I actually have the triples on the bike.

    Center to center the forks will be ~10.5 inches. Front hub is a TIGHT fit, you will have to get rid of the studs on the rotor and run countersunk Allen head bolts, or regular bolts with slight grinding on the head. You CANNOT run an 8" front tire, it will not fit between the forks.

    This is as far as I have made it. I'm not sure but I THINK the stock rim will fit, not sure if brakes are even possible. I wouldn't recommend doing this, at least until I finish mine, just in case it's not viable to make this setup work.

  4. #49
    loganm is offline Competing with a gnat in reading comprehension. Current winner: Gnat. Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Location
    Kansas
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    That's the approximate ride height with a 23.5" front. Stock clamps have a few degrees of rake built in, these have zero. Looks like it will turn out to be pretty good as is. Steering stop can be ground down a bit on the end for more turning.

    Yes I used a bunch of 1" washers for shims, no I don't care about your opinion. The bottom spanner with the dust shield was ground out, instructions said to use a nut with a dust shield, and since the vtx 1800 stem is longer, I ground the threads out to use the nut as a washer so I would have the dust shield. The washers will get replaced with collars cut to length for the final. Sorry about my iPhone turning the pictures sideways.

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