How many Pistons do I have to ruin

[AK47KID]

Obviously puns, double entendres, and sarcasm go over your head..........



You may want to withhold your comments until you have your "I just bought 2 non-running motors, I'm gonna swap one into my X" built and running, lest you end up in the same boat.

Actually it has a shifting problem And has a leaking head gasket. So I'm junking it

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[Scootertrash]

And you know this how, when it doesn't run? Shifting thru the gears without the gears in the transmission turning is not a reliable way to test the transmission.

[Dirtcrasher]

Since no other method seems acceptable; Take out the piston and spin it gently on a belt sander (with a steady hand), about 60 grit or less numerically. You won't have to break it in, a shortcut per say. How do you think the drag cars rebuild a motor in 18 minutes??

Then buy a brand new carb that's jetted for anything that fits that size intake. A 32mm carb works on all 32mm intakes.

No more seizures, just a hair of loss in compression.....

[loganm]

Please keep the talking in my thread about me thanks

[AK47KID]

Technically on a 2 stroke if you want your engine to run as well as it did before the bore you need to match the heights of your ports to what they were before the bore, so whether you do that or not you should still check your jetting after you break it in.

Another (and much more important) thing about proper jetting is that it is related to the content of oxygen in the volume of air passing through the engine at any given moment more so than any other factor. An example would be that today is 80F and you're heading up the mountains with your buddies. You find that your engine seems down on power. Next weekend you run out to the coast to ride in the sand and a cold front comes in. Your trike seems feels like it's on the bottle when you hit the power band even though you haven't touched a thing and your still using last weeks pre-mix.

The reason would be that you were jetted rich on the warm high altitude ride and NEAR perfect for the cool sea level ride. Now the scary part... THERE'S NO SUCH THINK AS PERFECT JETTING on a carburetor. But don't be scared. As long as everything else is good (no air leaks) and you aren't dedicated to 5 minute wide open uphill blasts or sub sea level air conditions your stock jetting should be fine for your otherwise stock engine after it's been bored. Keep in mind that your air/fuel screw is in effect an adjustable jet that you can play with at any time right on the trail.

The reason being that "close" jetting" is usually safe within 2,000' of corrected altitude change and almost every two stroke ever made (other than a few big bores) was overly rich to start with.

If you're planning to mess wit your jetting pull what you have in your carb and buy 2 sizes in both directions of the pilot and the main then read up on tuning and play with it. The rewards of proper jetting are better than adding a pipe, or adding fiber reeds, but be warned, power is addictive and it's hard to stop messing with jets once you get a taste of that power.

Thanks for the info

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[onformula1]

Please keep the talking in my thread about me thanks

Keep in mind, this kind of talking is a result of YOUR Attitude.

Like I wrote back in one of your many PM's too me- There ARE some extremely talented guy's on the forum, yes a internet forum, who would think these people could or would type on the internet and try to help inexperienced people like yourself???

Surely they must have better things too do, but they take the time too move this sport forward (Spending thousands of dollars in the process) Also, these people have always been around, but back in the old days it was meeting people at swaps, riding or racing then many phone calls where placed for help, the internet has just made it easier to help each other,,, IT does not mean the talent level is bad, just more accessible.

Now, there are some people here trying to learn, unlike you. Someday they maybe at a high level as well.

I strive to learn something everyday,,, Maybe you can drop the attitude and find it in your heart to learn one thing???, today.

[AK47KID]

And you know this how, when it doesn't run? Shifting thru the gears without the gears in the transmission turning is not a reliable way to test the transmission.

What the is wrong with you? Why the hell do you waste your time on trolling on almost everyone on this site? My 185s in my 200x frame is a pure pile of crap. There is too much play in the shift fork and it doesn't shift up or down with out force. I've already adjusted the clutch screw by the dips tick. No lukk. That is why I'm putting the 200s engine in it. If It doesn't work. I'll take it to the pros to rebuild

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[loganm]

Keep in mind, this kind of talking is a result of YOUR Attitude.

Like I wrote back in one of your many PM's too me- There ARE some extremely talented guy's on the forum, yes a internet forum, who would think these people could or would type on the internet and try to help inexperienced people like yourself???

Surely they must have better things too do, but they take the time too move this sport forward (Spending thousands of dollars in the process) Also, these people have always been around, but back in the old days it was meeting people at swaps, riding or racing then many phone calls where placed for help, the internet has just made it easier to help each other,,, IT does not mean the talent level is bad, just more accessible.

Now, there are some people here trying to learn, unlike you. Someday they maybe at a high level as well.

I strive to learn something everyday,,, Maybe you can drop the attitude and find it in your heart to learn one thing???, today.

I am here to learn. I'm getting multiple opinions from different people. Sorry I don't follow YOUR word down to a T.

[loganm]

Since no other method seems acceptable; Take out the piston and spin it gently on a belt sander (with a steady hand), about 60 grit or less numerically. You won't have to break it in, a shortcut per say. How do you think the drag cars rebuild a motor in 18 minutes??

Then buy a brand new carb that's jetted for anything that fits that size intake. A 32mm carb works on all 32mm intakes.

No more seizures, just a hair of loss in compression.....

That won't make you lose compression unless you take material off the top of the piston, it will just fit looser in the bore.

[onformula1]

I am here to learn. I'm getting multiple opinions from different people. Sorry I don't follow YOUR word down to a T.

#1- You must be joking, no???

#2- Opinions are good, if you followed them you would not be at 4 pistons and counting.

#3- Please don't take my opinions, I have only been building engines for 33 years, so I have a lot to learn, but I have only seized one engine in my lifetime and that was a 125cc endurance test to check the limits in a long wide open desert race, which I knew it was definitely possible it would seize.... I did hit the kill button and saved it.

[Jmoozy27]

That won't make you lose compression unless you take material off the top of the piston, it will just fit looser in the bore.

Thus making less compression... Step back and take notes. Your arrogance used to be amusing. Now it's your ignorance that amuses me.

At times (while ingesting popcorn)I want to root for you because I feel like your starting to accept reality. But, wishful thinking usually leads to a let down.

No big deal though... It's actually quite common to have dipshts in life. You can't force someone to do something unwillingly.

You get it how you live. You reap what you sew...

[cbx1170]

I cant help it. Gotta reply. worked as flat rate tech on and off since 1975. Finally post 118 it was stated vacuum decay check. Hello.. Pressure test since post 1 - 6 psi with max decay rate of 1 psi leak / minute (if at 5psi or lower after 1 minute FAIL) AND HOLD ON POST 118 Vacuum test... 6 pound vacuum with max decay rate 1 psi/minute (if at 5 pounds vacuum or less after 1 min FAIL). Pressure test gives you only 1/2 the info you need. Pushing out anywhere usually not a big problem. you just get to see residual fuel and oil leaks at gaskets rubber manifolds seals etc. still bad BUT vacuum will tell you things like... if your crank to clutch side seal is allowing bottom end to pull trans oil and burning it also makes exhaust smell like burning 4 stroke oil. every last cr500 engine in my Laegers trikes had a bad RH crank seal ate 1/2 qt oil in 2-3 tanks fuel. AND vacuum decay test will tell you if you are pulling AIR ANYWHERE into engine intake boots fine cracks LH CRANK SEALS behind ignition guaranteed to make you buy pistons over and over again base gskts intake gskts center case halves you name it. Also bad surfaces on metal parts. Final hands on exam at Honda reg tech class 1983 they had fine bubbles / leaks both pressure and vacuum test at base gaskets. HHMMMM. ? WHY did they do this? low rpm or high rpm failure? Press and vac test done and only valid for diagnosis while engine is still together before tear down. Yes Mosh most all of us can tell lean leaks. erratic idle pings bangs, cant jet and a generally unhappy engine. a light shot of ether carefully finds them quick. I recently had a non Hon/Yam/Kaw/Suz exhaust manifold with a weak design come loose from cylinder and before i caught it the damage had started. did not notice slight idle increase. AIR LEAK back into engine, not terminal but not good one of my best engines that ran 5 years hard hard duning. You can talk bore honing clearances types of pistons quality of work individuals oils all you want but if you dont have an open and inquisitive mind to search and find the problem all you are doing is masking the symptom and not fixing the problem. all of this is just one thing to check. keep checking other things. good luck. I have rarely damaged a 2 stroke piston (specifically not a new one) mine or customers unless something was REALLY wrong or bad to begin with or really bad or no (put my name here) maintenance was done. 5 min warm up !!!! then hold it on the rev limiter mercilessly and it keeps running WHY?

[El Camexican]

Loganm, I have concluded that you ARE MUCH SMARTER than everyone else posting on your threads. The proof is that we're still posting on your threads and therefor MUST BE IDIOTS. I can see no other reason why anyone would continue to engage you.

This will be my last post on any thread you start. I wish you the best of luck in all endeavors; may your suspensions be plush, your welds strong and your cylinders round. Live long and please don't breed

[onformula1]

Loganm, I have concluded that you ARE MUCH SMARTER than everyone else posting on your threads. The proof is that we're still posting on your threads and therefor MUST BE IDIOTS. I can see no other reason why anyone would continue to engage you.

This will be my last post on any thread you start. I wish you the best of luck in all endeavors; may your suspensions be plush, your welds strong and your cylinders round. Live long and please don't breed

And with that, I am kicking the MIC & MIC stand to the curb...OUT.

[Scootertrash]

What the is wrong with you? Why the hell do you waste your time on trolling on almost everyone on this site? My 185s in my 200x frame is a pure pile of crap. There is too much play in the shift fork and it doesn't shift up or down with out force. I've already adjusted the clutch screw by the dips tick. No lukk. That is why I'm putting the 200s engine in it. If It doesn't work. I'll take it to the pros to rebuild

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Pretty sensitive aren't you?

I'm not trolling. I'm asking questions to find out how you came to your conclusion. You didn't say which motor you were talking about, so I had to assume it was one of your non running motors.

I'll ask you again, like I've asked in your other threads "DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?"

Adjusting the screw by the dipstick won't change the amount of play in the shifter. It's for adjusting the clutch. The operation of the clutch has nothing to do with the play in the shifter. THERE IS NO ADJUSTMENT FOR PLAY IN THE SHIFTER.

DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?

If your clutch plates are worn out of spec, you will not be able to properly adjust the clutch. If you can't properly adjust the clutch, guess what? HARD SHIFTING

DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?

Have you checked the splines on the shifter shaft and inside the shifter lever to be sure that the shifter lever isn't slipping causing what you consider to be excessive play?

DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?

From the Honda Service Manual/Clutch Oil Pump Chapter/Troubleshooting

HARD TO SHIFT

1. Stopper plate damaged
2. Incorrect clutch adjustment
3. Faulty clutch lifter

From the Honda Service Manual/ Transmission Chapter/ Troubleshooting:

HARD TO SHIFT
1. Shift fork bent
2. Shift fork shaft bent

DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?

All of these potential causes of your problem can be inspected, diagnosed, and repaired BY USING THE SERVICE MANUAL

Guess what? If the parts in your 185 are out of spec, you can use the parts in your newly purchased engine without a top end (if they are present in the engine and in spec), to repair the shifting issues in your 185 so you have a running auto x while you make sure the other 200 is running or capable of running instead of wasting all the time swapping out and engine that may not run.

DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?

F'n Millennials. You want everyone else to do the footwork for you and when you don't hear what you want or get what you want "It's not fair!! Stop picking on me!! Jesus H jumping Christ on a pogo stick.

You know why a lot of mechanical/repair/diagnostic questions get very few responses?

A. Because 99% of them have already been answered multiple times and the answers are easily found using the search function. But then someone would actually have to do some reading to find the answer. Waaaaayyy too much work.

B. Threads like this where young punk, wet behind the ears know it alls ask for help, then disrespect the ones trying to help them, or even better yet? Tell them they don't know what they're talking about.

Oh Yea, did I forget to ask: DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL?