im trying to remove the right rear bearing holder bolt, its spinning, arrgghhh
is the nut contained in the brake drum area loose on this or welded?
maybe this is just stripped?
I guess I'd need to remove the axle to get in there?
any suggestions?
im trying to remove the right rear bearing holder bolt, its spinning, arrgghhh
is the nut contained in the brake drum area loose on this or welded?
maybe this is just stripped?
I guess I'd need to remove the axle to get in there?
any suggestions?
Last edited by sammiefish; 03-25-2016 at 09:33 AM.
Thanks,
Chris
84 125m
83 185s
83 185s
83 185s
84 200es
That nut is spot-welded on. If it spins, more than likely the weld broke.
It is in the brake drum area. To get at it, all you must do is remove the right wheel, brake drum cover, brake drum, and brake shoes. There is no need to remove the axle for this. On my 200M 2 of these nuts were loose/not welded on, so I tightened the bolts, flipped the bike over, and tack welded the nut to the bearing carrier. If you do this, make sure to the the ground clamp of the welder as close to the area you are welding in as possible. You don't want that electricity going through your bearings. I would also recommend a pipe over the axle and bolt threads to keep the spatter off, and the removal of all electrical parts, such as cdi, from the bike. Welding it is not hard to do, you just have to be a bit careful because of the tight tolerances.
1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one
Da velder
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THANKS so much for your reply!!!
I just hope the drum comes off OK : )
Thanks,
Chris
84 125m
83 185s
83 185s
83 185s
84 200es
No problem. Hope you get it fixed. I think you might have trouble with the drum, unless its been off before. If not kept greased they like to rust/seize. And also, MAKE SURE YOU USE PLENTY OF GREASE AND A BIT OF ANTISEIZE ON THE SPLINES WHEN REASSEMBLING!!!! You will thank yourself next time you take it apart. The copper anti-seize is a bit better, but the silver stuff will do fine.
You might have to get a oxy-acetylene torch and puller to break the drum free. If you need ideas for making a puller, do a search on this forum, I think I recall some threads in which the guys made their own pullers to remove it. Making the puller is simple, but you will want heavy steel. I would think 9/16 minimum, 3/4 or even 7/8 is better. I don't believe there is a commercial puller made.
1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one
Da velder
_______________________________________________
Feedback:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-Barnboy
Yeah the nut is barely welded on from factory and is most likely broken off, I got one like that. Just run it down to your local welding shop on a slow day and they can probably lay a quick bead down for ya.
1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*