Hello, I have just purchased an 86 ATC 250ES and the rear brake pivot is seized, I removed the drum and everything but I can't get the pivot to budge at all, it wont even slide out so I can grease it. I have some penetrating fluid on it right now.
Hello, I have just purchased an 86 ATC 250ES and the rear brake pivot is seized, I removed the drum and everything but I can't get the pivot to budge at all, it wont even slide out so I can grease it. I have some penetrating fluid on it right now.
1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*
Some it with PB blaster, if that does not work heat with torch and move back and forth
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ATC 110 79
ATC 110 85
ATC 250R 85 :cool
US90 1970
The foot brake?
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Not too sure how the big red is setup, but if the rear foot brake is similar to my 200x, then i just went through the same thing. It was the hardest part of my build so far!!!!
Mine was the brake arm, that rotates on the frame and connects to the foot brake pedal
On my 85 200X, thats the part that was a pain in the ass. I sprayed it with wd40 every day for about a week, then heated it w a propane torch for a few minutes till it was sizzling, and proceeded to beat the crap out of it with aand a 10" bolt i had laying around. Using it as a punch essentially. It was bad. Worst part of my build so far but i eventually got it off. Destroying the arm in the process. Luckily i had two spares
***EDIT** Just looked at parts fiche for your bike and its not the same as far as the pedal and linkage. So disregard this comment!!!
Last edited by Mackus84; 04-08-2016 at 04:33 PM.
I'm referring to the rear brake pivot on the brake shoes.
1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*
If you are referring to the rear brake actuator (see attached pic), I have had success freeing them up with repeated cycles of applying heat and penetrating oil (while the assembly is still warm), and a crescent wrench on the flats of the actuator to turn the whole shebang. Along with a few choice adjectives and a BMFH...
FYI:
WD40 is not a penetrating oil and doesn't work worth a crap as one. I prefer Kroil, but PB Blaster and other identical products sold specifically as "penetrating oils" work much better.
WD40 was developed as a Water Displacer, the 40th formula. Yea, they like to call it a penetrating oil, cuz it sells product. The others are better, IMHO. YMMV
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
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The OP never mentioned WD40. Perhaps he has another "penetrating fluid" that is best left unmentioned.
Yeah its some off brand stuff, it works really good on freeing other bolts. I'm trying to avoid using heat as it will ruin my axle tube seal. I have a oxy acetylene torch set if I need to break it out and use some heat.
1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*