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Thread: 250ES brake pivot seized

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
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    Manitoba Canada
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    117

    250ES brake pivot seized

    Hello, I have just purchased an 86 ATC 250ES and the rear brake pivot is seized, I removed the drum and everything but I can't get the pivot to budge at all, it wont even slide out so I can grease it. I have some penetrating fluid on it right now.
    1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
    1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
    1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
    1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    St Louis
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    87
    Some it with PB blaster, if that does not work heat with torch and move back and forth

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    ATC 110 79
    ATC 110 85
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Watford city, North Dakota United States "THE BAKKEN" / Lebanon, Oregon United states.
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    1,081
    The foot brake?

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  4. #4
    Mackus84's Avatar
    Mackus84 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Lakeland, Fl
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    427
    Not too sure how the big red is setup, but if the rear foot brake is similar to my 200x, then i just went through the same thing. It was the hardest part of my build so far!!!!
    Mine was the brake arm, that rotates on the frame and connects to the foot brake pedal
    Click image for larger version. 

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    On my 85 200X, thats the part that was a pain in the ass. I sprayed it with wd40 every day for about a week, then heated it w a propane torch for a few minutes till it was sizzling, and proceeded to beat the crap out of it with a and a 10" bolt i had laying around. Using it as a punch essentially. It was bad. Worst part of my build so far but i eventually got it off. Destroying the arm in the process. Luckily i had two spares
    ***EDIT** Just looked at parts fiche for your bike and its not the same as far as the pedal and linkage. So disregard this comment!!!
    Last edited by Mackus84; 04-08-2016 at 04:33 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    --
    117
    I'm referring to the rear brake pivot on the brake shoes.
    1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
    1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
    1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
    1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*

  6. #6
    tripledog's Avatar
    tripledog is offline I could be geriatricdog... at my age Got the holeshot
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central New York
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    2,182
    If you are referring to the rear brake actuator (see attached pic), I have had success freeing them up with repeated cycles of applying heat and penetrating oil (while the assembly is still warm), and a crescent wrench on the flats of the actuator to turn the whole shebang. Along with a few choice adjectives and a BMFH...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 250es rear brake actuator.jpg  

  7. #7
    Scootertrash's Avatar
    Scootertrash is offline Just Too Addicted: Protecting Our Community The day begins with 3WW
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    Apr 2011
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    In the sticks
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    4,638
    Quote Originally Posted by Mackus84 View Post
    Not too sure how the big red is setup, but if the rear foot brake is similar to my 200x, then i just went through the same thing. It was the hardest part of my build so far!!!!
    Mine was the brake arm, that rotates on the frame and connects to the foot brake pedal
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20160227_173817.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	2.18 MB 
ID:	230234
    On my 85 200X, thats the part that was a pain in the ass. I sprayed it with wd40 every day for about a week, then heated it w a propane torch for a few minutes till it was sizzling, and proceeded to beat the crap out of it with a and a 10" bolt i had laying around. Using it as a punch essentially. It was bad. Worst part of my build so far but i eventually got it off. Destroying the arm in the process. Luckily i had two spares
    ***EDIT** Just looked at parts fiche for your bike and its not the same as far as the pedal and linkage. So disregard this comment!!!
    FYI:

    WD40 is not a penetrating oil and doesn't work worth a crap as one. I prefer Kroil, but PB Blaster and other identical products sold specifically as "penetrating oils" work much better.

    WD40 was developed as a Water Displacer, the 40th formula. Yea, they like to call it a penetrating oil, cuz it sells product. The others are better, IMHO. YMMV

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
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  8. #8
    tripledog's Avatar
    tripledog is offline I could be geriatricdog... at my age Got the holeshot
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    Aug 2011
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    Central New York
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    The OP never mentioned WD40. Perhaps he has another "penetrating fluid" that is best left unmentioned.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
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    117
    Yeah its some off brand stuff, it works really good on freeing other bolts. I'm trying to avoid using heat as it will ruin my axle tube seal. I have a oxy acetylene torch set if I need to break it out and use some heat.
    1983 ATC 185s 200 jug bored .20 9.5:1 Naumura piston. Fast as ass when its not stretching the drive chain or stripping hubs.
    1986 ATC 250ES. *Total garbage trying to sell it*
    1983 YTM 200E. Runs good, forks are super bent but aside from that its mint.
    1984 YTM 200L. Barn find, everything is mint except the bottom end is bad... *waiting on a new engine*

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