Tri Z clutch Pushrod

[tommerp]

One more question....

Do I need to remove the stator assembly? The two bolts in there look really stuck / semi rusted. The rotor is already off but if I don't have to take the stator out, I'd rather not risk messing with it...

Thanks again!

[jonolanracin]

No you have to remove flywheel but stator is ok to leave in but in my opinion id always change seals when splitting cases and not sure if you can knock seal in with stator in place

[tommerp]

OK.. nice update here...

Cases - Split. Everything looks really really clean inside. Bearing are nice and free, no slop....

So,,, onto the clutch pushrod...

Lo and behold, I see the reason it would not come out.... the end that engaged the clutch actuator, was actually worn so badly and bent over, it would not pass through the shaft! After a few minutes of grinding down the "burr", it finally ( and easily ) slid out... with a new surprise.... The ball bearing is actually fused to the other end of the clutch rod... I've never seen anything like this before... surreal.



So, cases are going back together in the morning ( after I pick up some new Yamabond ) and then get the new clutch in it. I noticed the basket has some pretty bad groves in it so I'll be replacing that with a spare I have and see if I can work this one back into shape.

So, I can now say I've split cases for the first time.. Now to get it back together, tightened up, fixed up, and back into the frame!

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions... they all helped!

[El Camexican]

So, I can now say I've split cases for the first time.. Now to get it back together, tightened up, fixed up, and back into the frame!

Make sure the dowel pins are nice and clean (sand with 400 grit if needed) and put a VERY LIGHT coating of anti-seize in both sides of the case holes, just don't get any on the surface that the Yamabond goes on.

Nice and easy on tightening the bolts. Don't force anything and do each a little at a time till they are all snug. Warming the crank bearing a little with a heat gun will help it slip onto the crank a little easier. Wipe a little 2 stroke oil on the seal as well.

[Mosh]

It did that because there was no free play in the clutch actuator. If that lever is constantly loaded, the push rod and ball spin with the pressure plate while it is running until they weld together like that. Make sure there is good free play in the entire clutch system. Or it will happen again.

[El Camexican]

It did that because there was no free play in the clutch actuator. If that lever is constantly loaded, the push rod and ball spin with the pressure plate while it is running until they weld together like that. Make sure there is good free play in the entire clutch system. Or it will happen again.

Couldn't have been doing the plates any favors either.

[christph]

While you have the engine apart you may want to consider doing a few of the mods in the Tri-Z Wrench Report. I added the second boost port which is not hard to do, and it was a big improvement. I didn't rise the exhaust port, as they recommended, but I did find an NOS Bassani exhaust. With a few mods the Z can be made into a real fire breather.

[tommerp]

While you have the engine apart you may want to consider doing a few of the mods in the Tri-Z Wrench Report. I added the second boost port which is not hard to do, and it was a big improvement. I didn't rise the exhaust port, as they recommended, but I did find an NOS Bassani exhaust. With a few mods the Z can be made into a real fire breather.

I already have it all buttoned up and getting it ready to mount back in. I wasn't interested in making this one a fire breather as I just wanted to fix it and then sell it and give someone else the golden opportunity to own a Tri-Z

It did that because there was no free play in the clutch actuator. If that lever is constantly loaded, the push rod and ball spin with the pressure plate while it is running until they weld together like that. Make sure there is good free play in the entire clutch system. Or it will happen again.

I've already readjusted everything so that it is nice and set per specs. It seems the guy I got this trike from didn't really know what he was doing.... Everything else looked good except that stupid pushrod and ball.

Couldn't have been doing the plates any favors either.

The entire clutch was replaced with a good set I had. The baskets were pretty grooved... Not sure if I'll try to file them down or toss them. Anyone had good luck re-working these?

[tommerp]

I forgot to add... this trike had the pipe cut and rewelded where it met the (non-Tri-Z or even close ) silencer so that it bent outside the frame right there.... It's a Phase 5 so I think I'll get someone to cut it and get it back into shape...

The rear plastic was melted there due to the pipe being in the position it was... I don't know how he didn't burn his leg with it the way it was... lol

[El Camexican]

The baskets were pretty grooved... Not sure if I'll try to file them down or toss them. Anyone had good luck re-working these?

You can file the grooves out of any clutch basket. The problem is that they come back faster that they would on a new basket. The reason being that it is essentially impossible to remove exactly the same amount of material from each finger of the basket, so the reworked clutch has to support more force on one edge than the next. The key is to file each one as close to the same as possible using the current indentations as a depth guide.

Use an aluminum wax, or at least some oil on your file to keep it from gumming up with aluminum.

[tommerp]

You can file the grooves out of any clutch basket. The problem is that they come back faster that they would on a new basket. The reason being that it is essentially impossible to remove exactly the same amount of material from each finger of the basket, so the reworked clutch has to support more force on one edge than the next. The key is to file each one as close to the same as possible using the current indentations as a depth guide.

Use an aluminum wax, or at least some oil on your file to keep it from gumming up with aluminum.

Maybe I'll save it for a "winter time" project.

Thanks Bud!