185s GOKI wiring questions

[RUNMEDOWN]

The last Goki (And only) starter I had was on an old FL250. The PO had butchered the wiring up and I don't know how I got it running. That being said I was able to find a GOKI starter for my wife's ATC185s. Given that it is used and will not have a diagram with it; I want to be sure I am wiring correctly. I understand most of it, just want to be sure the batt recharge system is correct. I assume it hooks up the same as the one on the Odyssey; the Yellow wire (Recharge wire) goes from the lighting lead on the ATC to the + on the batt. Does this wire have a diode? or does it just half-ass charge the batt via AC? Also if anyone has a GOKI wire diagram for a 185s or 200, please post a link. Thank you all.

[Dirtcrasher]

I don't know if it helps but: Obviously the starter solenoid has a large gauge wire on the solenoid post, coming from the battery to one side of the solenoid, then off the other side of the solenoid to the starter large connection. The body of the starter is your ground. Jumping the 2 large wires with a large wire will bypass everything.

The only other wiring is the small gauge wires on the solenoid that get 12 volts when you push in your starter button. So, there's a 12V hot wire to the starter button but may have something in series with that as well.

On many applications that 12 volts is in series with a neutral "safety switch" which must be closed. Kinda like an automatic car transmission that won't come out of park and go into drive unless you step on the brakes, then the normally open circuit closes, applies 12V to the solenoid and makes the large gauge wire connection switch close applying 12V (but the wire carries a greater amount of amps) and engages the starter.

Not sure if that helps ya at all but even if it doesn't, it's a very simple circuit anyone can help you with.....

[RUNMEDOWN]

Thanks for the reply, i have the main idea down, its the single yellow wire (not run to the starter button) that runs to the positive side of the solonoid (or can be run directly to the positive side of the battery from the stator on the lighting side). I am not sure if it is just a single connection or if there is a diode in line with it. Not sure if running a dirrect AC charge to a DC batter connection is a good idea or if it would even charge the battery.

[Dirtcrasher]

I think it would be listed in the parts diagram as well as the service manual.

The battery is 12V DC and the starter switch should be 12V DC as well.

If there is only 1 wire, your missing one or the body of the solenoid is ground which I doubt.

Take 2 wires from the 12V DC battery terminals at the large gauge wire on the solenoid (Positive wire to starter lug, not negative or it spins the other way) and jump that 12V to the solenoid and apply them to that smaller yellow wire and the other solenoid wire; It should turn right over, your bypassing everything this way. Don't leave them connected for long, just let it turn over a few times. I'd take the plug wire off to be safe of any back spinning or binding that could happen.

It's gotta have a rectifier to change the stator voltage from AC to DC; At least I believe.

It's the same trick as everyone use to do with Fords with bad solenoids (or something in series) back in the day.

No one else has answered some 'm just throwing ideas out there....

[shortline10]

I have a Goki wiring diagram for a 200x if you need me to post a copy . Theirs definitely either a dioide or a resistor on that yellow wire that allows the battery to get a trickle charge .

[RUNMEDOWN]

Theirs definitely either a dioide or a resistor on that yellow wire that allows the battery to get a trickle charge .

Bingo that is what I needed. Thank you Shortline. Thank you Dirtcrasher as well fro all the info; there is now a slight chance I can get this working by Memorial day for the wife.

[BOB MARLIN]

Yes the yellow wire should have an inline diode. Its small and looks like part of the yellow wire. A lot of them have been smashed over the years and don't work. So once you get it running, put a volt meter on it to make sure it has
DC current running through it. It's just a trickle charge, but if you use the battery that Goki calls for they work just fine. Most of the problems I've seen that people have with the Goki is they try to cheap out on the battery , or in the case of the 350x they don't use the decomp.

[RUNMEDOWN]

Yes the yellow wire should have an inline diode.

I have a few rectifiers/regulators from some 250es builds I have done, I will wire one inline.

in the case of the 350x they don't use the decomp.

Noted, the 185s has been punched out and is running a 66.5 mm 10.25:1 piston, a 200x upper (with decompress lever valve cover from 200e) a 200x carb so I was worried about the ability to kick it over. With the decomp lever it sounds like it will be fine. I wonder it there is a way to hook up the auto decomp to engage with the elec starter as well. I will have to give it a look.

[RUNMEDOWN]

ITS ALIVE!!!! well it is wired up and will start with the starter button mounted on the bars as long as the decop lever is pulled. Now I just need to turn the carb to idle better for the wife and wire in the rectifier/regulator to keep it charged and it is done. Thanks for all the help.

[Jwheeler]

Hey good morning. I'm glad you got it running for your wife. The Goki live's on !!!!!