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Thread: big red 250 sticky shifter after sitting many years

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NL
    --
    49

    big red 250 sticky shifter after sitting many years

    hey guys i just aquired a 85 big red 250 in excellent condition. original tires and exhaust.. it had been sitting for 10 years or more, very clear that the bike has little use but the gear shifter gets stuck while shifting up or down. seems to get better the more i drive it but it still gets stuck up and down from time to time. wondering what the fix for this is? oil was changed in it recently

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,738
    limited experience on a big red but the actuators are roughly the same on most of these models. I would expose the clutch side of the case and take a look to see that your shift drum center (shift star), gear shift stopper, gear shift spring and gearshift return spring are all functioning properly. If its been sitting for 10 years, condensation may have built up in the oil causing oxidation in one or more of those components or maybe something has sheared after years of use.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
    --
    7,051
    Pull the Stator cover, your stud has broken off for your shifter. The problem will be very evident once you're in there Very easy fix.
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    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NL
    --
    49
    are new gaskets required for this job? nothing going to fall out when i take it off right?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
    --
    7,051
    The stud that holds your shifter return spring is loose/most likely broken. You will need a new stud most likely,and a stator cover gasket or silicone if it rips.Good idea to do the shifter seal fresh while you're in there.
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NL
    --
    49
    can anyone point me in the direction of a new one? i also have 2 spare engines here but would prefer to stay out of those unless the parts are expensive or i could get away from taking much apart by switching the whole side case

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,738
    A new one what? You need to find the problem before throwing your wallet at it.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NL
    --
    49
    well a stator cover gasket and shifter seal for sure if im taking the cover off. i live on a small island off the east coast of canada. looking at 2-3 weeks shipping for anything at all. would prefer to not have the bike apart all summer

    thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
    --
    7,051
    Nothing scary jumps out, I would very carefully crack open a spare engine for practice. You will then be familiar with what you've got. And if the shifter seal is dry, you CAN do this with no gaskets or silicone at a rip at worst. Piece of cake. 21 is your culprit, Keep an eye on 10, they don't shift without that little bugger Don't get scared, the drum and forks are all inside the engine

    http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/...GEARSHIFT-DRUM
    Last edited by atc007; 07-05-2016 at 10:32 PM.
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,738
    Quote Originally Posted by atc007 View Post
    Nothing scary jumps out, I would very carefully crack open a spare engine for practice. You will then be familiar with what you've got. And if the shifter seal is dry, you CAN do this with no gaskets or silicone at a rip at worst. Piece of cake. 21 is your culprit, Keep an eye on 10, they don't shift without that little bugger Don't get scared, the drum and forks are all inside the engine

    http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/...E-COVER---LEFT
    I must be misreading Bill....is 21 is a case dowel?
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
    --
    7,051
    Great catch Brendon . I have no clue why it tagged the wrong page,did it 3 times for me. Should be fixed now!
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NL
    --
    49
    cool thanks for the insight! learning a lot about these bikes lately. recently on the old 86 i done the swing arm bearings, new wheel bearings, all new brakes, starter solenoid and handle bar electronics switch.. now i have this 85 which needs a few odds and ends too.

    only thing im stumped on is the carb rebuild kit i put in the 86, i followed the factory manual procedures.. set the jetting back to stock specs, but the new stuff seems to be a bit richer in every area of throttle postion. the old stuff seemed to have one size smaller on every jet and the needle clip was 1 position leaner, pilot screw was in closer to 1 turn although manual calls for around 2 turns out.

    first 1/4 throttle is good, anything past 1/2 all the way to full throttle is good, only the mid range got a bog in it i cant seem to work out with the pilot screw. seems like its rich to me but i cant see why, did i forget somthing? there was a small spring and o ring left over in the rebuild kit i couldnt find anywhere to put it.. was thinking maby it was a universal kit for 85 or 86 carbs and the 86 didnt have that. either way im not expert on carbs but the only thing that could be effecting mid range would be the needle clip and/or the pilot screw? might start another thread on that though

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    NL
    --
    49
    quick update i took out the needle and put in on 3rd clip. seems to be running good now. still havent dug into the 85 shifter problem yet

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    s.w. michigan
    --
    6,498
    Had the carb off of my barn find twice today,,, thought I had it all cleaned out the first time I removed it a couple of days ago,,, not.
    I belive the left over small spring and very small O ring belongs on the pilot screw adjustment.
    I need to adjust mine from the factory 2 turns out as well,,,, after the motor cools down.
    john
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20160710_161154.jpg   20160710_161216.jpg  

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    s.w. michigan
    --
    6,498
    Cirose, where do you have your pilot screw at now ?
    You have fresher knowledge then I do about them,,,, I need to adjust mine but thought I would start with your recent exsperiance.

    Thanks, john

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