Capacitor sizing 85 250r led light flicker at idle

[morgan]

I've installed a led light bar and 2 pod led on my 250r for a total of 128 watts. My issue is I would like to stop the flicker at low rpm. I plan on purchasing a trail tech regulator and capacitor to fix the issue. The one that trail tech use to sell was rated at 27000uf and 50v. Does this size sounds in the range of size,or should I be looking at something bigger? Thanks

[deathman53]

or you could put a battery for a rc car. The main issue is the output of the stator, its ~100w almost at the highest of the rpm range, your lights are over it by 28w. Put a ricky stator 200w stator in before you do anything, you can burn out the reg/rec and kill battery very shortly.

[morgan]

What kind of rc battery 12v I assume? And I was going by the service manual stating that output was 159w at 5000 rpm.

[deathman53]

yeah, 12v. Also the TT reg/rec has 2 circuits on it, one only for the battery and other is a switchable circuit that only runs when bike is running. So you can wire the pod led's to run whenever the bike is running and light bar having a switch on it. On one of my dirtbikes, headlight, taillight and speedo are on switched circuit, hi beam is controlled by a switch(off battery), button for horn(off battery), brake lights are also off battery and power for radiator fan to sensor switch on radiator(off battery). Yes, I made the lighting harness myself. Another one of my bikes got the switching reg/rec, when I get around to building a light harness for it, some things will get changed around. I always thought the 250r was good for ~100w and when converting to dc, expect to lose ~10% of power(compromise for getting a more stable and better efficiency voltage type).

[jb2wheels]

I run mine on the unmodified AC lighting system (85 250R and 85 350X) and let them flicker. It doesn't idle much...

I'm pretty sure the 3rd gen R stator puts out over 150W at higher RPM.

[f76]

Did you convert your lighting circuit to dc power?

[plevib]

I run mine on the unmodified AC lighting system (85 250R and 85 350X) and let them flicker. It doesn't idle much...

You really run the risk of burning up the led's by running them without a battery or capacitor. That flickering causes death to leds.... it's them trying to rectify the sine wave produced by the ac coil. Not only are led's not designed to rectify ac (although they will do that) but after the sine wave is rectified it leaves a ripple, which led's really do not like. I've burned up a nice set by not running a capacitor......

I run a rectifier/regulator and a 33000uf cap (27000 will work just fine). Voltage of cap doesn't matter as long as it's more than operating voltage of the circuit. I've had good luck with mine for a few months like that.

I'm an electrician so while I'm not the best trike guru, I know my stuff when it involves wires

[morgan]

Thank you all for the replies, plevib. Did you build your regulator also have a picture of your capacitor? Thanks

[plevib]

Here is the capacitor I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M1RK0NW..._y-HOxb74ZGHGW

I didn't build the rectifier. I used a cheap one from amazon but I can't seem to find it right now. Any 4 wire regulator should work. Many honda xl's have the one you need
Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271513380011

Mine is a xl500 engine but I'm assuming the 3rd Gen r has the same kind of wiring as my 84 r did. When I put the xl engine in I did a brand new bare bones wiring harness. Lights and spark and a tether kill. I quickly burned up the led's without a capacitor, so I added one and I added a light swith on the handlebars cuz those led's are bright! Haha... my family said they couldn't look my way on the trails in daylight

[morgan]

I was thinking my parts atc125m has a 4 wire regulator, so that should work I would think?