Build Threads.

[Mr. Clean]

Beautiful. It is so clean your son only wants to put his heel on the ground

Oh.....we are doing cars, trucks, bikes, everything?

Ok. I might start a thread for my 65 XLH. Going to get it up and running and up to speed.

My son (who's on it) likes it but sorry........go find your own.

[El Camexican]

Last winter I got wood and decided to do something with it

[coolpool]

It never ceases to amaze with what this group can do! And to think we're viewed as a bunch of uneducated hicks for riding three wheelers by some. I believe there's nothing we can't accomplish as a community!

Nice ride Knappy, well adorned and not over built!

And you have nice wood elcam, you should go in business.

[oldskool83]

This getting +2 swinger, reinforced rims and going some type of water cooled 4 stroke motor once I sell my KX set up. After riding my kfx450r I do not really dig 2 strokes much on 3/4 wheels. Not a racer just running coal hills and rail beds.

[tripledog]

Beautiful. It is so clean your son only wants to put his heel on the ground

Cuz that bike already has enough sole.

[El Camexican]

you have nice wood elcam, you should go in business.

Thanks, but maybe not. All I have to work with is a hobby quality table saw, a router, hand grinder, two drills, a and a screw driver. I plan to bring my dad’s jointer down here one day, would make things a lot easier. Much like my mechanical projects I'd go broke if I was paid by the job.

[Caminofeld]

I'm planning a budget build on my '86 350x this Winter if I can meet my goal of getting my garage/shop in order (and, most importantly, heated). I can only put in work at night after the kids are in bed. I'm gonna start scavenging for parts this week. My goal is for function over form. If the Wife ever allows me to ride again I'll stick with my usual style of beating the piss out of whatever I ride. No trailer queens here. Couple questions:

-Does anyone have a cheap gas tank in decent condition?

-Should I gusset the frame?

[Caminofeld]

Oh, and if my driver rear leaf on my cheap zombie K5 project sags 1.5" lower than the [only slightly saggy] passenger side, can I put a 3" block on one side and a 1.5" on the other to even them out and bring the rear up 1.5"?

I'll post pics soon…bummed I have to put the doors back on for cold weather

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Start a build thread on it . I'm sure some would like to see it but don't use jpeg photos or whatever they are because the moderators have deemed me unworthy to view them, lol.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

I will surely post a thread here, but it's going to be awhile. I have other things that are of higher priority that I must see to before I can start on the big block... I can't friggen wait to get started though! I have been wanting to build my own truck engine for as long as I can remember.

It does need some work, but not terrible.. It needs pistons and possibly a bore job, the rest of the rotating assembly has very low hours on it since rebuilt, but I will most likely do the main, rod, and cam bearings just because they are relatively inexpensive and all of that stuff will be removed for the pending bore job anyway.... I'm pretty sure the reason it smoked the pistons was the wrong heads and/or pistons were used in conjunction with the blower. I'm probably going to just shop around and pick up a good set of iron heads for it with the correct chamber size for the blower and 91 oct fuel. BBC heads are CRAZY $$$, most running north of $1200 each (and we think trikes are a money pit!) and with the blower I think I can put together a combination that should pretty easily make 400hp/400 ft-lbs with the blower kicking things up a notch. Obviously I will be seeking the help of some professionals on this as I want it to run well, but I want it to hold together.

The big block is still at my father in laws place, but I will be moving it home in the coming weeks. I'll get some pics and show you guys what I got when I get it home.

[barnett468]

I will surely post a thread here, but it's going to be awhile. I have been wanting to build my own truck engine for as long as I can remember.

It needs pistons and possibly a bore job, the rest of the rotating assembly has very low hours on it since rebuilt, but I will most likely do the main, rod, and cam bearings just because they are relatively inexpensive and all of that stuff will be removed for the pending bore job anyway.... I'm pretty sure the reason it smoked the pistons was the wrong heads and/or pistons were used in conjunction with the blower. I'm probably going to just shop around and pick up a good set of iron heads for it with the correct chamber size for the blower and 91 oct fuel. BBC heads are CRAZY $$$, most running north of $1200 each (and we think trikes are a money pit!) and with the blower I think I can put together a combination that should pretty easily make 400hp/400 ft-lbs with the blower kicking things up a notch. Obviously I will be seeking the help of some professionals on this as I want it to run well, but I want it to hold together.

The big block is still at my father in laws place, but I will be moving it home in the coming weeks. I'll get some pics and show you guys what I got when I get it home.

Sounds like fun . If you don't know anyone that knows a lot about engines, feel free to pm me cuz that's one of the things I have done since 1971.


PISTONS

I can tell you this for certain, you need 2618 material for the pistons for any type of forced air induction or nitrous, otherwise the chances that the will grenade is very high . The grenading is typically due to incorrect tune which causes detonation which will grenade the more brittle 4032 pistons . For super high boost, you should run thick deck 2618 pistons but je is one of the few companies that makes them and unless you hit the lotto, you will likely need to take donations to buy them . I think they are currently around $950.00 . The best overall piston for a budget blower engine is the Probes . The NMRA guys run those with up to 15 lbs of boost and they seem to stay together.


IGNITION TIMING CONTROL

I would also consider an "anti knock" timing control device . They sense detonation and reduce the timing always keeping it near the maximum for max performance, however, they run around $650.00 and if you are only running around 6 psi of boost which will be more tan enough to get over 400 hp, you can get by without one if you tune it carefully and run an MSD that has a boost retard function or just lock out your distributor so it doesn't advance too much.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/


RODS

If the rods are stock, throw them in the trash . Eagle, Scat, or K1 H beam rods with 2000 psi ARP rod bolts will be good enough . The K1's will be the lightest which is what I prefer to run between these . If you want killer rods, Olivers are what I would use but those are overkill unless you will be drag racing it.


TIMING CHAIN SET

Rollmaster timing set with the IWIS chain will last longer than most . You can get them with 1, 2 or no torrington bearings . The torringtons are overkill for non racing apps . The Cloyes True Roller is a decent budget chain .


CYLINDER HEAD MODS

You should have some minor porting done in the bowl and valve guide area for the best effect . The labor on this should only be around 400.00 for the pair . If you are on a budget and are handy with a grinder, you can do this yourself once you know what to do . There are several photos of ported Chevy heads on the net to use as a guide.


CAMSHAFT

It will get over 400 hp with almost any camshaft, however, for the most power everywhere, you need to get a custom cam . It will cost you around $200.00 more than an off the shelf cam and it will make a noticeable difference, however, to get the most benefit from the custom cam, they will need your head flow numbers . I would use Chris Straub.

http://straubtechnologies.com/


CRANK DAMPER

If it is stock, get an ATI dual inertia ring type . They reduce crank twist and vibration . This is the same brand used by many Nascar teams, however, they use the tripple inertia ring one.


ENGINE BALANCE

This will need to be done.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

[tripledog]

Thinking of converting this into an edit button for Mr. 468...

[El Camexican]

All I can tell you about big block Chevy's Joe, is that they run very hot even with a mild tune. Make sure you set aside some cash for a great big four core rad and some electric fans.

[barnett468]

.
Not all electric fans are equal . Most aftermarket ones actually flow less air than a fixed blade fan that has 5 or more blades . One problem is that most of the aftermarket electric fan mfgs simply outright lie abut their flow rating . Some of the most accurate ratings are from Derale and Spal . The best deal on the higher flow fans are used oem ones . The most popular ones are from the Ford Taurus, Lincoln MK V111 and Ford Contour . The Contour has 2 fans and its depth its slightly less than the other two so it allows for a little more clearance between the fan and the water pump . These fans can often be found at jumk yards for aroud $30.00 or from resellers online for around $120.00, however, do NOT buy an aftermarket replacement one because they flow less air tan an oem one.

Along with that $600.00 radiator you will need, you will also need a high flow water pump and high quality high flow brass thermostat like a Milodon . The cheap high flow t stats from the chain stores are crap . Flow Kooler has good pumps and reasonable prices . I just bought a high flow one for my 428 Cobra Jet from them in cast iron because I needed the factory look.

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/


US RADIATOR makes the best copper brass ones and their retail store is Cool Craft in Arizona.

http://www.coolcraft.com/radiators.html

http://www.usradiator.com/


CHAMPION sells decent Chinese aluminum ones.

http://www.championradiators.com/


GRIFFIN makes some cheap ones and some good ones . An aluminum rad with 2 rows of 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 tubes are excellent rads but aren't cheap either.

http://www.griffinrad.com/

Its best to mount aluminum rads with isolators to reduce the potential for cracking.

With all this fancy stuff, you will also need a high amp alternator . A 90 amp one will be enough unless you have a 10,000 jigawatt amplifier.

Last and not least you need a fan controller . DCC is the most popular one with people "In the know". I would not even look at the others.

http://www.dccontrol.com/

As far as engine running temp goes, I would not run it any higher than 185 which means you need a 180 t stat . 175 with a 170 t stat would be my other choice.

Run a 16 lb cap with an overflow bottle.

If you live where it doesn't get to freezing, you can run 25% coolant and a bottle of coolant additive like water wetter but a different brand and the rest demineralized water.

You should also have the air pick up outside the engine compartment (Cold Air Induction) to reduce the potential for detonation and also try a plug that is one step colder than stock.

Plug gap should be no more than .032" to reduce the chance of the blower blowing the spark out which they will in fact do if there is enough boost.

You don't need to worry much about maintaining the proper squish/quench clearance with boosted engines because the boost creates enough turbulence.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR




PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

.

[DohcBikes]

The new job and a determination to not create any more tasks or responsibilities for myself is finally allowing me to get caught up physically and financially. Once I get some more things in order and after I get some parts that have been idle too long out to where they belong, I'll be posting a very unique Yamaha trike build, a Honda electric start auto-x, and a Suzuki 2 wheeler build.

[DohcBikes]

Also thank you for the participation in the thread.

Looks like there's a few more than 5 or 6 of us left here.

Ghost? What cha got?

AK47? How's the 200x?

Anybody else, wanna provide links to your builds? Maybe some of us missed them while we were banned, HA.

Fabio, the 480 is bad to the bone.

86t3, what's your time frame on the Green Bassturd? I don't have anything intended for flat track so I have no skin in the game. Isn't somebody else on this site building a 200? Dirtcrasher... Where's that Blaster trike?