What are you doing today? Thread

[rpeters]

Barns let’s you use his trailer?

So how many of these “Barne” finds (See what I did there?) actually have working brakes at the time of purchase? I figure with so few miles most of the calipers would be locked up.

From barnett

"He forgot to use quotes. I was the one that picked up that bike. It's hard to find good help these days, lol.

Oddly, I have only had to fix the brakes on a handful of bikes with less than 10k miles. The ones that needed the brakes fixed were left outside for a period of time, likely during cold, wet weather, and that has caused some corrosion inside the calipers or masters, however, fortunately, this corrosion has typically been minor enough that I was able to disassemble the masters or calipers and clean them then reuse all the parts. The ones I greatly dislike having to fix are bikes with linked brakes, where applying pressure to the rear brake applies pressure to the front brake, because they are friggen hard to bleed.

I also greatly dislike fixing the carbs on the Suzuki 750 and 800 Intruders, because the rear carb is extremely difficult to remove, and I am getting lazy, in my "Golden" years, so I no longer buy those bikes if they have carb issues.

Sorry, but I gotta go now to search for more prizes before knappyfeet and the others get up.".
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[El Camexican]

That is odd. I don’t have that kind of luck very often. Frequent changes of brake fluid are highly underrated, unless you ride down mountains a lot. I can’t believe how easy it is to boil two year old brake fluid as compared to less than one year old brake fluid. Live, learn and heal….

[rpeters]

That is odd. I don’t have that kind of luck very often. Frequent changes of brake fluid are highly underrated, unless you ride down mountains a lot. I can’t believe how easy it is to boil two year old brake fluid as compared to less than one year old brake fluid. Live, learn and heal….

Frpm barnett

"Oh I always change the brake fluid regardless, I just don't run into stuck or leaky calipers or masters very often."

The brake fluid below still performs well when it gets moisture in it, and feels less spongy than Dot3, 4, and 5.

"SRF is used throughout Formula 1, Grand Prix and Superbike racing. SRF is a polyglycol-ether based DOT4 fluid compatible with all DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 fluids. With a dry boiling point of 590F (310C) on par with the other fluids, it excels with a 518F (270C) wet boiling point. Even as the fluid wears and collects moisture it exceeds the boiling point of DOT5 making this exceptionally resistant to vapor lock in all conditions. It’s compatible with all ABS systems, and all seals, rubber and materials used in braking systems designed for conventional polyglycol brake fluids. Exceeds US FMVSS 116 DOT3 and DOT4, SAE J1703, ISO 4925 and Australian standard 1960 Grade 3."

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[Scootertrash]

Frpm barnett

"Oh I always change the brake fluid regardless, I just don't run into stuck or leaky calipers or masters very often."

The brake fluid below still performs well when it gets moisture in it, and feels less spongy than Dot3, 4, and 5.

"SRF is used throughout Formula 1, Grand Prix and Superbike racing. SRF is a polyglycol-ether based DOT4 fluid compatible with all DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 fluids. With a dry boiling point of 590F (310C) on par with the other fluids, it excels with a 518F (270C) wet boiling point. Even as the fluid wears and collects moisture it exceeds the boiling point of DOT5 making this exceptionally resistant to vapor lock in all conditions. It’s compatible with all ABS systems, and all seals, rubber and materials used in braking systems designed for conventional polyglycol brake fluids. Exceeds US FMVSS 116 DOT3 and DOT4, SAE J1703, ISO 4925 and Australian standard 1960 Grade 3."

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Any relation to Sharon Peters?

[ATC King]

This morning was one of those excellent weather days. A slight chill in the air, the sun rising brightly, and dew still on the ground.

There were things I should have worked on but I got a bicycle ride in and then went on a motorcycle ride. I rode the motorcycle to buy some frosty barley pops and took some back roads, stopping to have a frosty one on the old highway that cars don't travel anymore (or can't).

It was one of those great days where I was able to just enjoy it and clear my head. Two wheeled machines have a way of doing that.




With the brake fluid talk, it's extremely important to recognize the difference between DOT 5 and 5.1.

Harley's tend to use DOT 5 because it's silicone based and won't ruin paint if spilled on it. DOT 5.1 is what one of my bicycles uses and is like DOT 3/4, but with a higher boiling point. I use synthetic DOT 4 in a lot of DOT 3 applications, but 5.1 is way overkill for anything but a supercar. Bicycle disk brakes tend to run on the ragged edge to save weight and 5.1 makes sense. My other bicycles use mineral oil for brake fluid.

DOT 5 and mineral oil are NOT hygroscopic, which creates other problems. The basic thing is DOT 5 is in no way compatible with the other brake fluids and since silicone is so tenacious, good luck flushing it out of a contaminated DOT 3/4/5.1 system.


Edit: Edelbrock finally got the 1940 carb calibration kit back in stock after something like six months. I got one on the way. There's a slight bit I need to dial in the carb on my truck.

[El Camexican]

This morning was one of those excellent weather days. A slight chill in the air, the sun rising brightly, and dew still on the ground.

There were things I should have worked on but I got a bicycle ride in and then went on a motorcycle ride. I rode the motorcycle to buy some frosty barley pops and took some back roads, stopping to have a frosty one on the old highway that cars don't travel anymore (or can't).

It was one of those great days where I was able to just enjoy it and clear my head. Two wheeled machines have a way of doing that.




With the brake fluid talk, it's extremely important to recognize the difference between DOT 5 and 5.1.

Harley's tend to use DOT 5 because it's silicone based and won't ruin paint if spilled on it. DOT 5.1 is what one of my bicycles uses and is like DOT 3/4, but with a higher boiling point. I use synthetic DOT 4 in a lot of DOT 3 applications, but 5.1 is way overkill for anything but a supercar. Bicycle disk brakes tend to run on the ragged edge to save weight and 5.1 makes sense. My other bicycles use mineral oil for brake fluid.

DOT 5 and mineral oil are NOT hygroscopic, which creates other problems. The basic thing is DOT 5 is in no way compatible with the other brake fluids and since silicone is so tenacious, good luck flushing it out of a contaminated DOT 3/4/5.1 system.


Edit: Edelbrock finally got the 1940 carb calibration kit back in stock after something like six months. I got one on the way. There's a slight bit I need to dial in the carb on my truck.

Yep, the wrong brake fluid has killed more than one person, never mix or go outside the suggested type on the reservoir cap.

The higher the boiling point usually means the more hygroscopic it is, hence the race stuff needs to be changed more often.

I’ve never tried the 5.1, always just use the highest boiling point DOT 4 I can find.

[ATC King]

The higher the boiling point usually means the more hygroscopic it is, hence the race stuff needs to be changed more often.

I try for annual changes, but sometimes don't make it. Brake fluid is relatively inexpensive.

I'll use the DOT 4 in place of DOT 3, but it shouldn't be done the other way around. When the manufacturer specs DOT 4, using DOT 3 could cause some issues under severe braking. The only thing I have that uses DOT 5.1 is the mountain bike and I have to use a special bleed kit on it which is a PITA and can be messy. The Harley uses DOT 5 and it's purple, so not to confuse it with the other DOT brake fluids.

Some brake fluid producers are selling a 3/4 compatible product, but I don't see how that'd be anything but 4 which is backwards compatible with 3 anyway, but 3 in a 4 system is ill advised. That's about like that 'universal' coolant, that I also avoid using.

I started using synthetic DOT 4 in place of 3 because synthetic DOT 3 doesn't cost much less than the synthetic 4. The conventional DOT 3 cost a good bit less than the synthetic 4 though.

The 5.1 and 5 can be a bit more difficult to find in stores other than automotive parts stores. The mineral oil brake fluid for my other bicycle I usually have to order. I don't know if the closest bicycle shop carries it and if they did, it'd be overly expensive compared to ordering some online.



There is one brake fluid substitute out there that'll brake so well, it won't let the brakes go. I've seen it. Using transmission fluid in the brake reservoir is very, very expensive. A total brake system rebuild, expensive.

If you haven't seen the Just Rolled In channel on YouTube, it's full of WTF car damage and repairs that just, rolled in. I haven't watched them all, but it wouldn't be surprising to see an ATF in the brake fluid result.

[El Camexican]

That mineral oil stuff is pricy. I use Magura Blood in my hydraulic clutches, but if you know of a cheaper alternative (that isn’t brake fluid) please post it.

A few years ago I had a clutch start to leak in the middle nowhere and filled the reservoir with 2 stroke oil (urine was my next option) and it worked great, got me home.

After I rebuilt the piston I disconnected the hose and from what I could tell the two-stroke oil hadn’t made it down to the slave cylinder, so I just filled it with new mineral oil, bled it and it’s been working ever since.

[ATC King]

That mineral oil stuff is pricy. I use Magura Blood in my hydraulic clutches, but if you know of a cheaper alternative (that isn’t brake fluid) please post it.

Next time I'm buying mineral oil brake/clutch fluid, it'll be this.
https://www.amazon.com/Jaguar-TRW-Hy...ustomerReviews

Jaguar TRW Hydraulic System Mineral Oil LHM

There's several reviews of motorcycle clutch and bicycle brake use. Besides that, I've been looking at alternatives to the manufacturer brand oils for a while and something like the above should be fine.


There's always mineral oil searches and MSDS to look at if really wanting to get as cheap as possible, but that TRW stuff is already much less the the Shimano or Magura brand oils.

I hear you on the clutch thing and needing to do something to make it work. I had a clutch cable break once while riding and to make it worse, I was in town with several stop lights to make it through before getting home. Stalling on a trail is one thing, stalling it with weapons of mass (physical) destruction right behind me is another.

[rpeters]

The higher the boiling point usually means the more hygroscopic it is, hence the race stuff needs to be changed more often.

The one from Castrol doesnt seem to have that problem, which is one reason Barnett says he sometimes uses it.

"Castrol SRF is less hygroscopic than conventional brake fluids - it absorbs less water in a given time.

Secondly, unlike conventional glycol ether fluids, Castrol SRF reacts chemically with the absorbed water to reduce its adverse effects, thus preventing the fluid's high temperature performance and safety margins from deteriorating as rapidly as they would otherwise do.".

[rpeters]

From barnett

"Another day, another low mile bike. 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 with working brakes and only 7,228 miles.

On our way home home there was a naked woman dancing on a freeway sign with the police and fire department there with a 15 foot high inflatable bag under the sign. Luckily it was on the other side of the freeway from us, unluckily, around 1 mile further down, there was a semi upside down in a ditch next to the freeway on our side that was getting winched out. So it was slow going for a little while on our side, but it was backed up to a complete stop for at least 5 miles on the other side and that lady was no where near ready to get off that sign when we passed her, lol.

Naked lady story with pre-naked photo. https://www.vvng.com/woman-threatens...pting-closure/


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[oldskool83]

trying to decide of I want to grab a 82 Yamaha TT250 dirt bike off a friend for a large bill. It had trike potential but currently into a blind 200x build

[ATC King]

trying to decide of I want to grab a 82 Yamaha TT250 dirt bike off a friend for a large bill. It had trike potential but currently into a blind 200x build

I think the time would be better vested in the 200X. Both probably have the same parts scarcity, with the TT250 possibly being worse. I don't imagine there's much if any aftermarket support for the TT250, especially cottage industry parts.

[ATC King]

Changed the oil and filter, brake fluid, then gave it a good wash.

These filters used to come in a reasonable size box, now they're in one more than double the size. Ugh, I buy two at a time, immediately put them in one box and throw the other box away.

Attachment 269401

It's been a little neglected the past year and other than going through a car wash to knock the crud off, it's been about that long since I hand washed it.

Edit: The first person who finds the American flag in that picture gets a homemade digital cookie.

[ironchop]

From Doug:

"No cookies for me. I'm on a straight carnivore diet for the next 45 days. Send me a digital ribeye" instead

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