What are you doing today? Thread

[barnett468]

Not at all what i meant...

Perhaps this tractor that was for sale at the last auction I went to is more to your liking.




PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR

[knappyfeet]

That's a nasty tank!

Hang in there JD........... mine started off really ugly like that but little by little it's getting there

[lndy650]

for an old tractor this is my favorite. (ya i know its not actually blue) we also had a few ford 800's. as for newer we had a 7700 cab a 7700 4x4 blue power special both had turbos and a 5600 with bigger injectors and pump

[lndy650]

Knappy did you get anywhere with that code?

[knappyfeet]

Knappy did you get anywhere with that code?

No.......still no luck with it yet Indy.

The cat monitor is still being stubborn. I have tried a few drive cycles with it with no luck.

edit............ I still use it daily. When I have the time in the morning I will try a drive cycle before using it for the day.

[Jd110]

for an old tractor this is my favorite. (ya i know its not actually blue) we also had a few ford 800's. as for newer we had a 7700 cab a 7700 4x4 blue power special both had turbos and a 5600 with bigger injectors and pump

Now, that's a good looking tractor!!

[lndy650]

Ya i picked that picture from google but we had a powermaster just like it on our dairy farm. I loved that tractor it was perfect for medium labor jobs like raking hay or pulling wagons. I even baled with it once hooked up to a new holland 311 square baler. she grunted a bit but ultimately succeeded. in low gear lol....

first thing we did was put a stack type muffler on it. I never understood why the old tractors had the exhaust out the rear thats a good way to catch a field on fire just need one big backfire. in reality its probly a rare occurance but all the old farmers warned about them backfiring and setting fields on fire.

[Jd110]

[QUOTE=knappyfeet;1467803]That's a nasty tank!

Hang in there JD........... mine started off really ugly like that but little by little it's getting there

Wow! Good to know knappy, thanks. Last time I used apple cider vinegar was on the little John Deere tank. After 3 days soaking and shaking deck screws around, with little difference, I switched to muriatic acid, which cleaned it perfectly within a couple hours.

May I ask what you use? The progression looks really good.

[Jd110]

JD110 just curious did you find those sockets inside the gas tank? funny story i once bought a dx225 from the local idiot and i found a big rock and a 10 inch pair of channel locks in the gas tank! Not sure how he got the rock in there but i have a good idea with the channel locks

They were in the rear storage compartment. Didn't take a before pic but they were bad enough I didn't even want to really touch them.

[lndy650]

i use vinegar with a little muriatic acid mixed in. if its a tank i then make a solution of warm water and baking soda and shake it around the tank for a few minutes and do it a second time. muriatic acid is strong and can continue to eat through the metal so the baking soda neutralizes the acid. if its a part i make the solution in a bucket and slosh the part around in it.
Another trick when soaking in acid take a metal rod and scratch the rusted surface it will speed up the process.

edit: Ya i hear ya JD110 ive found some nasty crap in those toolbox's. the worst is old spark plug packages that get wet and soggy then mix in with rusty metal parts! Well the worst is an active rats nest but im not bringing that up ill be traumatized all over again!
i see that has the fairly rare speedo on it cool! my 85 big red had one it did 52 revving to the moon

[barnett468]

.
WARNING - Muriatic acid and Hydrochloric acid are dangerous, and a good wiff of the fumes can permanently will roast your lungs.

Oxalic acid crystals mixed with water is a bazillion times safer and works nearly as well but don't be breathing in these pure crystals either. The fumes from the mixture and potential damage to the skin is far less dangerous than the ones mentioned.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR

[DAM shop]

Guy's,
I know a big junk of what you are trying to remove is varnish but for a rusted tank use a product called Evapo-rust. This stuff is great attacking the rust but not harming the metal..

Description
Eliminate rust in minutes without scrubbing

Evapo-Rust is an environmentally safe, water-based product has been proven to make rust—even deep, pitted rust—disappear in minutes and restore rusted steel tools and auto parts to "like-new" condition. Simply coat, wait and rinse. This rust remover is biodegradable, nontoxic, noncorrosive, nonflammable and contains no acids, alkalis or petroleum solvents.

Plus you can use it over and over.. Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate ligand and a single central atom

[knappyfeet]

[QUOTE=Jd110;1467813]

May I ask what you use? The progression looks really good.

Evaporust is good but my favorite is the Rustoleum Rust remover. It is way quicker than evaporust. Sometimes it's on sale at walmart.

Here's a link to my yamaha 90 thread where I did my tank

http://www.caferacer.net/forum/gener...tml#post415114

Either of these chemicals eliminates the need for screws shaking around in the tank.........it gets it removed all by itself......just with time.

[DAM shop]

[QUOTE=knappyfeet;1467824]

Evaporust is good but my favorite is the Rustoleum Rust remover. It is way quicker than evaporust. Sometimes it's on sale at walmart.

Here's a link to my yamaha 90 thread where I did my tank

http://www.caferacer.net/forum/gener...tml#post415114

Either of these chemicals eliminates the need for screws shaking around in the tank.........it gets it removed all by itself......just with time.

Good to know on the rustolem brand.. we have gone through 5 gallons of this stuff over the past year and a half..

[lndy650]

I usually only use muriatic acid on exhaust pipes because its easy to get inside and out it works fast and neutralizing it with baking soda immediately stops the process. Muriatic acid can be dangerous but if you use your head you'll be fine. the baking soda will stop any burns on the skin and if you dont have a respirator just stay upwind outside or use a fan in a ventilated area like a garage with the door open. when I was young i had a battery blow up and got acid in my mouth, eyes, and on my skin. My moms ex used baking soda and warm water and it instantly stopped the burning. I mean i had burns and it still hurt but as soon as the baking soda was applied it stopped the acid from causing further harm and it felt much better.
Im not saying its a miracle if something like that happens you should call the poison hotline or go to the ER immediately.