86 250r won't hit powerband

[Banshee_killer]

I will try's soon and post an update

[Banshee_killer]

I tried tapping it to no prevail. I got the aftermarket cdi and you guys were right it didn't work (timing wise) but I did notic it produced a brighter spark and I didn't have to kick it over as fast (the old cdi you really had to kick it to on make spark. So does this point to the cdi going bad?

[newby200x]

That's the difference between the cheap aftermarket CDI's and a good used OEM. The OEM requires a good hard kick to get the revolutions going to produce a good spark. This will prevent the kick starter from kicking back as well, which is going to happen on the aftermarket unit. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...lectrical-Help

Have you tested your stator per the manual? It's rather easy to do if you know how to use a multi meter. Have you looked at your flywheel yet to look to check for rust/debris? A copy of the service manaul can be found here. http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

[Banshee_killer]

I'll have someone test the cdi in town here and I'll test the stator once I get a chance. I haven't looked at the fly wheel etc but I will soon

[barnett468]

That's the difference between the cheap aftermarket CDI's and a good used OEM. The OEM requires a good hard kick to get the revolutions going to produce a good spark. This will prevent the kick starter from kicking back as well, which is going to happen on the aftermarket unit. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...lectrical-Help

Honda did not attempt to reduce engine kick back by intentionally designing the ignition system with a weak spark so the engine had to be kicked over fast to generate enough spark to ignite the fuel.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR

[Banshee_killer]

So is my Cdi going out do you think

[yaegerb]

for s and g's see what the distance is of your pick up to your stator. See below, the part that bolt #10 goes through. The distance from the pickup to the mark (the raised portion) on the flywheel should be no thicker than a business card. Sometimes they get loose and vibrate further away from stator which produces an inconsistent/weak spark.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...VER/parts.html

[Banshee_killer]

I got the day off tomorrow so I will take a look thank you!

[Banshee_killer]

The pulser was in spec but I was wondering... is this the original flywheel?

[Banshee_killer]

Also this was the fly wheel key. Would this have anything to do with it?

[Banshee_killer]

Here is the flywheel key

[shortline10]

WOW !
The flywheels are know for the rivets to come loose and destroy the stator with it , obviously some one welded yours to get some more life out of it .
Time for a new flywheel .

The pulser was in spec but I was wondering... is this the original flywheel?

[Banshee_killer]

Could that fly wheel be then problem?

[yaegerb]

so something really bad happened there. Your woodruff key is mangled. What does your crank look like where the key fits and what kind of bolt is holding on the flywheel? Also, your counter balancer bearing holder has been re-welded which is not a good sign. Can you take some pics of the crank where the fly wheel mounts?

I would at the very least get a new flywheel and counter balancer holder.

[Banshee_killer]

The slot and everything looks fine. I'll take a pic tmr and sends it