Need help with 85 Honda 250R ATC

[rmcollector]

My suspicions are correct, the crankcase is completely flooded with fuel. I am going to get a siphon pump to try to get most of it out. Anyone else have this happen to them before? What can be the reason as to why the crank is flooded? The fuel on the carb is always turned off on the carb, but the overflow does have about 3-4 drips a day while it is not running. The float has been adjusted correctly.

[yaegerb]

No I have not experienced this on an r but I have never had one leak as you are experiencing. How much gas is actually in the crank case? I would love to see a picture of this.

[shortline10]

I see this all the time , either your petcock is bad or your float valve isn’t sealing correctly .
I start off with a large syringe to remove the fuel and a little compressed air to get it completely dry .

[atc300r]

I had a similar experience like this on my 86 200x. The little spring pin on the needle stuck in and the gas started filling up the airbox.I replaced the needle and its all good.

[rmcollector]

I got all of the gas out of the crank this morning. This is only half of what came out. Waiting on the reeds and cylinder gasket to come in and going to put it back together. Im hoping it will start. Will let you guys know.

[atc007]

Maybe I missed something. If you are waiting on a cylinder gasket. Get your cylinder to a reputable machine shop to get your bore squared away and matched to a piston. Also,if your air filter is dry with no oil. That is not good. Air filters rely on oil to filter dirt. They need to be clean,but oiled for filtration.

[Outlaw #24]

Your petcock is leaking through because it is bad and won't shut the fuel off or you didn't get it shut when you shut it off! the needle fuel valve needle inside the carb didn't shut either, possibly wrong float setting. Gas tank is higher than the engine so it will drain into the engine. Dry it out and put the new reeds in. Lubricate the rod bearings now because they have been laying in gas. Oil you filter. Foam gets oiled and K&N's get spray oiled Lightly. Foam gets saturated and ring it out to get all of the excess oil off (Squeeze the oil out). Good luck and let us know how you made out!

[rmcollector]

Maybe I missed something. If you are waiting on a cylinder gasket. Get your cylinder to a reputable machine shop to get your bore squared away and matched to a piston. Also,if your air filter is dry with no oil. That is not good. Air filters rely on oil to filter dirt. They need to be clean,but oiled for filtration.

The cylinder has been stored for years and has less than 40 hrs with a stock bore, why would I need to get it matched to a piston? As far as the air filter, yes it is lightly oiled, I just meant in a previous post that it wasn't saturated in fuel and is "dry".

[rmcollector]

Your petcock is leaking through because it is bad and won't shut the fuel off or you didn't get it shut when you shut it off! the needle fuel valve needle inside the carb didn't shut either, possibly wrong float setting. Gas tank is higher than the engine so it will drain into the engine. Dry it out and put the new reeds in. Lubricate the rod bearings now because they have been laying in gas. Oil you filter. Foam gets oiled and K&N's get spray oiled Lightly. Foam gets saturated and ring it out to get all of the excess oil off (Squeeze the oil out). Good luck and let us know how you made out!

The petcock has been replaced about 2 months ago with a oem one. No leaks with the new one. As far as the carb, this is the part I am having trouble with. I cannot seem to pinpoint it. Can certain parts inside the carb go bad that cannot be replaced on the Keihin? I have the 85 model, but I am using the 86 flat slide Keihin carb.

[yaegerb]

Why don’t you just get a 38mm Keihin. They work well. Get a genuine one, not a knockoff.

[rmcollector]

Why don’t you just get a 38mm Keihin. They work well. Get a genuine one, not a knockoff.

lol...yes I am, I was just being cheap. I plan I getting one in the next week or two. Why not the stock 34mm Keihin? Or possibly a 35mm? I am only running fmf, everything else is stock. I put those Boyseen reeds on that you recommended and they fit perfect.

[Outlaw #24]

You probably don't need a bi carb but the float may not be set correctly and letting fuel go through the shut off valve inside the carb. The little rubber point on the end maybe deteriorated and especially if you have used gasohol in your fuel. The Alcohol in your fuel is a no no. Alcohol deteriorates all aluminum and makes rubber swell and become flimsy is hardens is up after the fuel dry's up . You did say it had been sitting! Also even though you said that a new pet cock was installed does not mean that it is shutting the fuel off. Unplug the fuel line from the carb and check out specifically where it shuts off and make darn sur it is shutting off. Let us know what you find out!

[yaegerb]

lol...yes I am, I was just being cheap. I plan I getting one in the next week or two. Why not the stock 34mm Keihin? Or possibly a 35mm? I am only running fmf, everything else is stock. I put those Boyseen reeds on that you recommended and they fit perfect.

When I build them I always use a 38. They are an all around great carb, easy to jet and provide enough fuel when you want to upgrade from stock down the road. Down jetted, they also work well on stock platforms.

[rmcollector]

It could be a sheared woodruff key on the stator side. Do you have a flywheel puller? You may want to pull off the flywheel and ensure the key is still there and in good condition.

So I got the motor back together today after getting all the gas out of the crank. Still won't start. I remember you mentioning the woodruff key and decided to take the flywheel off. Once I got it off there were little pieces of metal in the flywheel that look to belong to the key. I have never looked at a woodruff key, but I am going to say this is damaged from what I see?

[yaegerb]

So I got the motor back together today after getting all the gas out of the crank. Still won't start. I remember you mentioning the woodruff key and decided to take the flywheel off. Once I got it off there were little pieces of metal in the flywheel that look to belong to the key. I have never looked at a woodruff key, but I am going to say this is damaged from what I see?

Yup, and that’s one if the main reasons why you aren’t firing. I can see where the flywheel has been turning on the crank spindle. Get a pic and a small and lightly tap the old key bits out of the groove and get a new key. You can still buy the key for that motor on partzilla.

Also, make sure the keyway in the flywheel isn’t damaged in some way. There a reason why that key sheared like it did.