You properly set the float...to what degree? Needle seat is new? Is there any ware on the slide or barrel of the carb? All the breathing tubes are new and cut to proper length. No Rust in the Tank right? Air box lid on or off? Your needle clip position should be 3rd notch down...adding choke restricts air flow making it rich for starts. My biggest question do you have a basic manual or shop service guide book? If not search this site and download one. You just didn’t rebuild this blind did you?
Only move the clip up or down one slot and be sure is properly held in place by retaining clip. You’ll need to rejet only in high mod engines or altitude or when fitting a larger carb to find max output.
The slipping kicker??? If it skips engagement you have a bad cog/gear which means the Missing teeth are still in there
I followed the shop manual online. The float is supposed to be at .55 inches right? Or is it supposed to be level with the carb body? The needle is 3 down, that tank is the cleanest I’ve ever seen a three wheeler tank. air box lid on with the tube connected to the carb, I tried to get the needle seat or guide wherever the needle on the slide goes in at out but it is stuck no damage was done to it though. I see no visible wear on the slide or the barrel, however the needle moves back and forth in there I don’t think it’s supposed to do that. The float needle seat is not new but the needle is, the needle seat has creepin green on it if that’s what you want to call it. I tried to do a real deep rebuild but I wasn’t able to because of stuck components. Missing teeth still in the engine??? It very rarely skips engagement but it still does what should I do about that? Buy a new cog/gear?
Just test your oil next time you change it with a magnet. I’d take up that refresh offer.
Ok will do that.