Perplexed-Need Help X 4

[patriot1]

Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose and sometimes it rains:

Neither 200 budged today-I will refill with ATF tomorrow and let it soak for a week or so.

I installed a spare battery on Dean Martin today and guess what?



The neutral light works!

I hot wired the key ignition and totally unplugged the left side kill switch and crossed the solenoid and it turned over like a dream.

I checked for fire at the spark plug and had a beautiful blue arc so I sprayed some starter fluid in the air box and crossed the solenoid again and again she turned over like a dream....hmmm

I checked the compression and got this



Not too good. Then I remembered a bike MrC had that had very little compression and he did a few things to it and it gained compression...I just didn't remember what all he did. I'll read up on that and check the valves tomorrow.

I then sprayed pb blaster down the plug hold and starter fluid down the gas line hose and air box and crossed the solenoid again and....It almost popped but not quite. It's going to start-just as sure as the sun is going to shine tomorrow,

I cleaned and lubed the left hand control switch. the buttons were frozen and I them all back moving and reinstalled it. With the key ignition hot wired, I hit the starter button and the solenoid clicked one time. hit it again and again-one click. Bad solenoid?

Tomorrow will bring something new-no doubt.

Thanks for all the tips and input. More on Sammy Davis later.

[BarnBoy]

Always check compression with throttle held wide open. Crank @ 7-8 times and thats about as good as you're gonna get. If you put some oil down the cyl, it may up the compression. But if it does, you have worn rings/cyl and need a rebuild. There is no quick easy fix, it either has good compression or not, and if you're at 50-60 psi right now...WITH throttle held open, it will not run and you've got a rebuild on your hands.

[Jim mac]

hopefully the valves out of adjustment. ive bought a 70 with low compression, loosened the valves and started right up. jim

[kb0nly]

At 60 psi my guess would be leaking valves... Quick and easy test, spin it around to top dead center, get a blow gun with a rubber tip on it, pull the plug and hold that tight into the plug hole and blow some air in, quick and dirty leak check, air blowing out the exhaust or carb and you know its a valve issue, and if thats the case other then checking the valve lash i would say its time to tear off the top end. Not all is lost, i have had plenty that the only thing wrong from sitting was a leaky valve. On my current 82 200E project one valve was partly open as it sat for 15 years, the seat and valve were rusty and pitted. A quick valve job on it and i went from 145psi to 160, and it runs great. Before it would run but it sputtered a lot and had a miss at idle due to the leaking valve.

Of course if you gotta pull the top end apart to fix the valves you might as well go through it all... But a quick and dirty hone job and some rings along with a valve job might bring it around. I did a lot of them like that and they have run for many more years after. Just depends on how much you want to put into it.

[patriot1]

Thanks KB

I attempted your air test today but did not have it at TDC, so that was a waste of time. I'll try if again tomorrow at TDC.

I then put it at TDC to check and adjust the valves. The intake valve was loose so I tightened it. Specs say to .08 mm but my closest feeler gauge is .073. Also, I might have messed up interpreting "tighten until there is slight resistance on the feeler gauge". Not sure if my "slight resistance" is the same as a guy who actually knows what they are doing.

I'm going to check the valves again tomorrow.

I did check compression after I adjusted the valves and it still read 60 psi so maybe a set of rings is inevitable-we'll see.

Still letting the 200s soak.

Gotta take the rack out tonight so she's happy and I can continue to work on trikes.

I'll redo today again tomorrow-maybe I'll get it right.

[MrConcdid]

I like the valves loose on a new startup after sitting. I want to make sure they seat and or knock off any carbon or rust or anything, that might be on them. Once it runs, the I reset them to spec. Just keep at it, you will get them freed up.
MrC.

[patriot1]

So...both 200's are still locked up. The cylinders have soaked in mmo for five-seven days and atf and acetone since. Still locked up.

I am thinking about putting some tires on it and trying to pull it and get it to unlock.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice? Jim?

Thanks!

[BarnBoy]

So...both 200's are still locked up. The cylinders have soaked in mmo for five-seven days and atf and acetone since. Still locked up.

I am thinking about putting some tires on it and trying to pull it and get it to unlock.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice? Jim?

Thanks!

I would rather not pull them to get them freed up but that may work. I would insert a screw driver or lever through the pullstart pulley, and give it a few whacks with a this way and a few whacks the other way. Not terribly hard, but just get a bit of movement going, try and break the rust bond inside the cyl. But honestly, you may just have to pull the head and jug. You may get them freed up, but I can almost guarantee you'll need a bore and rings.

[patriot1]

Interesting day-Not really but...

So back wheels won't turn on the 200 either. And since the nuetral indicator is broken off and I am not sure it's in neutral and I have no tires to push it, I decide to check out the chain and the condition it is in.

Have you ever seen a nicer front axle/brake parts for an 81?



Yeah, that's how nice this bike is where rats have NOT pissed!!!

So still contemplating buying a set of Deestones, I begin to check the chain again.



And a little more...



How the hell? Why?

Like King said "This is one pisser of a thread"..

[350for350]

I think that you may have found the reason the the rear hubs won't spin. I've had some that I had to cut the chain off of before they'd roll.

[patriot1]

I'm not a ratologist by no means but how did they even get in there? It was completely sealed. I probably took the chain cover off for the first time today.

[Jim mac]

on my 185 motor, I just used a 17mm socket on a breaker bar. give it a quick jerk instead of a slow pull to shock the rings off tje cylinder. might even hit it with a impact, not to tightened it up tight, just to chatter it both ways.
maybe cut the chain off first if your not sure your in neutral. jim

[patriot1]

Jim:

If I twist it left (counter clockwise) with any force it just loosens the nut. If I turn it clockwise it just tightens the nut if/when it turns at all.


Question: Do I have to take the engine completely out to take the top end off on an 81 200 (no letter)?

[Jim mac]

on my 185, with the breaker bar the nut didn't turn, luckily the motor spun. problem i had using a screwdriver thru the cage, the cage wanted to distort. the motor does have to come out to pull the top end off. but its really only like about a 30 min job at most to yank a motor if the bikes complete. jim

[MrConcdid]

Yes full removal.
I have 3ft pry bar I insert between the cogs of the recoil ring. This gives me leverage. Remove the chain verify neutral. Then try the pry bar. It may be more than just locked up. Remove the engine and tear the top end off.
Timing chain could be bound up, or piston melted who knows at this point. It should of freed up by now.