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Thread: 1984 Honda 200X Rescue

  1. #346
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    1,798
    KUAFU 200x fenders on Amazon....$251. Using my 5% Amazon rewards card would be $239. It has me thinking

    As I'm working on the fender it's getting better but what a job. Then I drop the fender and create another crack near the front.....then I think about those Amazon KUAFU fenders and think... "why the hell am I wasting all this time on these cracked up broke-dick fenders?" I mean I'm literally painting everything and plating every fastener....only to then install these shitty-ass fenders on top? I think the plan has changed.

    I'm probably not going to pick up the KUAFUs from amazon (which would still be better) but probably will get some Maiers and call it a day. Life is way too short to spend it on fenders that realistically belong on a beater.

    Even if the budget goes to $2500 for fenders & such i will still sleep like a baby. We will see




  2. #347
    Footy's Avatar
    Footy is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Charlotte, N.C.
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    418
    I just went through these same decisions on my 250sx rider/farm unit.
    I decided to hot staple and plastic weld because I want to keep the trunk .
    It looks pretty rough but seems strong. I plan to add some red plastic wrap and consider it good enough.
    I do think as nice as you are building this one that it deserves new plastic.
    Put your butt on the inside fender or end up on the ground!

    TRX450ER
    ATC250SX
    ATC350X
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    Grizzly700

  3. #348
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    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Footy View Post
    I just went through these same decisions on my 250sx rider/farm unit.
    I decided to hot staple and plastic weld because I want to keep the trunk .
    It looks pretty rough but seems strong. I plan to add some red plastic wrap and consider it good enough.
    I do think as nice as you are building this one that it deserves new plastic.
    I've already priced the Maiers.....another $400+.

    The ones on Amazon have reviews saying that they are nice. But the common thread is that they are very thin or thinner than say Maiers.

    The cool thing about buying Chinese carburetors on Amazon and stuff like that is that if you get it all you have to do is take it back to a return center and that's it.......if it dosent suit you....or your needs.

    I agree with you though....... I think this rig is turning out nice enough to deserve some shiny plastic on the top.

  4. #349
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Finally the slide bushing came in. 21 days it took from partzilla. I'm going old school next time and just go to the dealer.

    Now both forks are together and the bushing went in with no play or binding.

    $1493 + $23 for the bushing = $1516.








  5. #350
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    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    Forks installed and filled.

    Only the best 7 year old Wal-Mart ATF for this girl. Can't be as bad as the 30+ year old slosh that came out.

    Now that I'm reassembling things I'm noticing I'm missing/misplaced/lost some stuff. That's time consuming and irritating.









  6. #351
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    2,447
    Quote Originally Posted by knappyfeet View Post
    Forks installed and filled.

    Only the best 7 year old Wal-Mart ATF for this girl.
    At least it's new enough to say SuperTech instead of Tech2000. That was so 1999.


    Almost a roller. Looking good.

  7. #352
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    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    At least it's new enough to say SuperTech instead of Tech2000. That was so 1999.
    I can remember when Walmarts 10W40, carburetor cleaner, ATF, brake cleaner, brake fluid, etc was all $.78 a piece. That was a long time ago, but not a 1000 years ago.

    The headlight guard doesn't fit unless you use 1/4 spacer all the way around. I can't remember if that's normal or not. The pictures make it look "cock-eyed" but it will fit.

    Trying to decide what color to paint it. Since I've got some engine mounts that need painting, I may just paint them red if there's a enough left over........ If not just black.









  8. #353
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    May 2015
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    Does anyone know the color of these hubs?

    I gotta make a run to O'reilly's and it looks gun metal something.....gun metal grey or black or charcoal.....maybe graphite?

    Since I'm into pretty I wanna paint it but i'm not gonna spend the money on some automotive finish.........just the cheap autozone or O'reilly's rattlecan job.

    I'm gonna take it with me when I recycle the oil and maybe match it up that way.





  9. #354
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    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Working on getting the heat shield off of the headpipe but I'm in the same boat is that dude here with the frozen drain plug...... I can't it off for the life of me.

    I've heated it...soaked it...hit it....nothing. I've found in the past trying to unscrew a Phillips head bolt off something that's been frozen solid with rust for years is nearly impossible. I probably have a success rate of 10% freeing them. It's even bending the impact driver bit.

    I'll let it soak some more but if no success the next time I'll just drill them out and tack a new threaded bung and call it a day. I don't want to destroy the heat guard.






  10. #355
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    I feel your frustration with those heat shield screws.

    Later today I make take a picture, but I have some of those screw bosses that I made years ago just for that. Mild round stock, cut, drilled and tapped. Ready to tack on.

    When I come across those stuck like that and after initial attempts fail, I drill the heads off, remove the shield, then grind the original bosses away. Two little screws can take up so much time. It's quicker to start fresh sometimes.

  11. #356
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    When I come across those stuck like that and after initial attempts fail, I drill the heads off, remove the shield, then grind the original bosses away. Two little screws can take up so much time. It's quicker to start fresh sometimes.
    Thank you for the motivation.

    Drilled & cut off. A day wasted soaking and heating it ....and 5 minutes to get them drilled and grinded off....what was I thinking

    Now I can spend the next week or 2 getting it stripped & the rust removed and re finished.







    Last edited by knappyfeet; 01-20-2024 at 10:27 PM. Reason: I can't believe I don't know how to spell

  12. #357
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    Attachment 271152

    I forget I have them until I roll the blasting cabinet into action.

    Some are off center because I got lazy and drilled trough too much round stock, the bit walked off center. I should have cut and drilled them all individually.

    Evidence that I got sick and tired of fussing with those some time ago. I made extra.

  13. #358
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Attachment 271152

    I forget I have them until I roll the blasting cabinet into action.

    Some are off center because I got lazy and drilled trough too much round stock, the bit walked off center. I should have cut and drilled them all individually.

    Evidence that I got sick and tired of fussing with those some time ago. I made extra.

    They look perfect King!

    Today I'm using acid to strip exhaust parts.

    To me, the acid is easier and better to use than sand blasting.....in that blasting (depending what kind of media you're using) can mark up the surface. Plus it's easy to just drop it in the solution and come back later and wash off. It also serves to "pickle" the metal as well....which is ideal for better finish adhesion.

    The problem i've always had is that motorcycle parts are funky shaped.......in that they don't always fit nicely into a specific 5 gallon bucket/pan/cup/etc. I don't know what the service life is for used acid, so I try to use it sparingly. It would be nice to have a 30-gallon chemical container that I could put 20 gallons of acid in & just drop in things as I need....then pull them out a day later. For now, I just save old 7-11 cups, bottles, whatever...that I can use for funny shaped things like the exhaust.

    The heat shield I just put in a cup...then the next day just clean it off and flip it upside-down for the other side. It's clumsy but it works.






  14. #359
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    May 2015
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    Yesterday was another spa day (wintergreen oil) for some rubber parts.

    Motor mounting hardware painted & plated as well. That long bolt was pretty rusted and it shows how bad it was with the pitting. I may put some grease on it when I install......for the next person who tears into this 40 years from now.










  15. #360
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    Got some items today.

    Some spacers for the headlight guard... a couple of zinc anode strips (mainly for another project) and some olive drab paint.... in hopes of painting the rear brake assembly, kick starter, etc.. It's hard to match that olive chromate color...without paying an additional $80 to color match it. And then it still wouldn't be perfect just a lot closer. Everyone tells me to just paint it black and be done but not me...I love punishment.

    The other can is a satin clear that I'm going to use on a set of forks.... nothing on this rig.

    Previous balance $1516

    Spacers = $11
    Zinc anode = $7
    Paint = $27

    Grand total $1561

    I think the olive drab paint for the kicker, etc.. will probably be a mistake. In fact I was thinking about that when I was buying it....... something told me not to buy it.

    We will see


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