At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
Not that I'd ever pay that much because I'm a cheap SOB. But the hourly shop labor rates around here are $100+ an hour. One Toyota dealership quoted my neighbor $140 an hour recently. Prices are up across the board.
All the more reason to keep up our DIY skills and keep investing in tools.
There is also a "mint" 200x" for sale here for $4500. Saw a beater 200x for $1500 a couple days ago.
Take care
207
Power User
Roostin Away
Yea....seems like he's fishing for whales.Originally Posted by 350for350
He's selling the chasis for $2200.
Put them both together and you got a $5000 rig that needs to be restored
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Honda-...-127632-2357-0
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
I completely agree. You can't expect to get shop rates for doing your own work.
Power User
Got the holeshot
On the hour rate subject, if they aren't getting the time from a Honda book, it's smoke and mirrors.
Vehicle repair times are noted by the manufacturer, same as it is when taking a car to the dealership. Everything has already got a time attached to it and that goes into the repair quote. This is vehicle repair, not building contract work. It's a known time for each repair which is why mechanics on commission take short-cuts and tend to screw things up. They're trying to beat the clock and make more money.
Anyone trying to ride the gravy train with independent repair hours is blowing that MJ smoke right up people's arses.
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
They are only worth that if you have no mechanical skill and want to trust someone else...who knows what was really used. A full motor rebuild done right normally costs me around $700 maybe $900 if I fly cut cylinder bases and blow in a cam....Thats me doing all the work with all new parts, except having a great guy fully rebuild the heads for me.
New to the board
Arm chair racerNew to the board
Quite a few 200's around the Pacific Northwest on Facebook Marketplace in that price range. I rejoined FB recently just to use their Marketplace feature (so far, nobody in the old world knows I have an account again--whew!) I've seen some pretty good deals go by on there lately. Bought a 125m(h) complete and running for 400 two weeks back. (of course it needs work--where's the fun without that?)
I may be old, but I still enjoy the feeling
of the earth rotating beneath my wheels
Power User
Roostin Away
Score!.. need pics.
Oldskool is correct....2K for a 200X motor may be worth it to some but I would AT LEAST want it powder coated proper with new fasteners, tappet covers, etc....and some kind of guarantee it would run. It seems like the description in the listing is trying really hard to say there's no warranty and returns and he's pretty sure it would run. Kinda like the listing for the chassis.....messed up frame, dented tank, bent this..jacked up that.
These first gen 200Xs were a dime a dozen not too long ago....now they are a quarter a dozen....still no gem.
All this makes my $1500 budgeted trike seem like a bargain
Power User
Roostin Away
Gonna start working on the engine as some parts have come in. I will a need a few extra things like the tappet covers and I don't quite know the piston situation but I'm going to assume it's only rings. We'll know later when the cylinders removed.
My plan for now is pretty simple… I'm going to leave it in the frame as long as I can and start disassembling items. This gives me kind of an anchor so I can use a little bit more force if need be. As things come off they will get the new seals and I'll clean them up and the gasket surfaces cleaned and a fresh coat of duplicolor semi glass. Then simply set them aside and get ready to reinstall all the items once things are complete. I would love a new set of fasteners but the budget may be tight..... so for now I'm just going to clean them as I go and zink plate the heads to make them look a little prettier.
I forgot how fun it was to clean and remove all traces of 40 year old gaskets. Also someone previously was very liberal with the silicone gasket maker.
Gasket set.....$37
Seal set.........$16
Engine paint...$8
Grand total so far $935
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
I'm rebuilding the top end of my 200s and getting the gaskets off has been a chore to say the least. I tried getting some gasket removal spray at local parts stores with no luck. So I soaked the gasket with PB Blaster and just scraped away slowly. I'm lucky right now to have plenty of time to just plug away at it. If it was riding season it would have got silicone gasket maker and I would have been riding before it even set up. But it's the dead of winter and time is on my side.
Good luck on your project Knappyfeet! It's going to be a sweet looking machine when it's done. Will it be trail ridden?
Take care
207
Power User
Roostin Away
I've never found an easy way to remove motorcycle gaskets. Those gasket removal sprays never seemed to help me. I remove as much as I can scrapping .... then use paint stripper and carburetor cleaner and steel wool.....nothing glamorous.
Yes this X will be used. The initial plan was just to get it working properly and cleaned up. But then I thought…. why can't it be a runner and still look halfway decent?
Power User
Got the holeshot
The secret is...get someone else to do it.
If I was running a repair shop, I'd have one well paid employee who's only job would be profesional gasket remover. I'd never wrestle with silicone boogers again or have to deal with sharp aluminum edges and a multitude of cuts on my hands. I'm not running a reapir shop though.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
I know on cast iron parts we started using the 3m gasket removal pads on a drill or die grinder. Is it possible to use these on aluminum? I'm done scraping gaskets of my current project but have plans on tearing down another engine after this one is finished.
Take care and be well
207
Got The Holeshot
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
a wire wheel on a cordless drill or a bench grinder use a copper/bronze wire wheel of soft metals and a stainless steel wire wheel on hard material.
cant get it all off this way, but its does work very well.
mrc_builds on YouTube Channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmw...confirmation=1
My Addiction
85 350x "The Nice One"
86 350x
85 350x "Yard Sale" Flat Tracker
84 250r "lucky"
85 250sx "Enterprise"
85 350x "The Money Pit"
85 350x "Code Red"
86 250r "Unicorn"
86 trx250r
88 Lt250r Suzuki
83 Z50r
85 ATC 70
88 KD80x
85 CR250r
84 KXT250r Tecate
mrc_builds saves trikes like Jimmy Swaggart saved souls back in the day -said Patriot1
Power User
Roostin Away
Thanks for the tip Mr. C.
I guess the question is do you guys dress the gaskets when you install them?
I'll use a gasket sealer/dressing on gaskets if need be. Usually I install them dry. Some gaskets I apply a very thin layer of grease on the mating surfaces...... so they can be removed without problems… like a clutch cover or sometimes a base gasket or whatever.
Edit.....come to think of it I probably apply a thin layer of grease to the mating surfaces more often than I install them dry.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
I use that Copper sealing spray on the head gasket and the base gasket where the cylinder meets the block. I use oil or grease on the clutch cover because I like to open it every so often to clean the crud that accumulates in there.
What do you use to seal the valve cover? I have always used a very thin layer of gasket maker.
Reply With Quote
