1984 Honda 200X Rescue

[oldskool83]

My build has been about 2 years, but I had other machines to ride and it was one of those things "IF" I find that or if I "Have" that made. I'm at carb, stage now and muffler stage next...then it needs oil and fuel. Take a stage at a time. If you can work on something each day its progress, even if its putting on a clutch cable or rear wheel hubs. Something if farther than nothing.

[knappyfeet]

Something if farther than nothing.

Thanks Aaron.... took your advice and got the triple installed, everything degunked and all greased up. The feeling of the motion is so much better....nice and smooth with no hesitation....no binding.

I was looking at the upper and was thinking about sanding it down for a better appearance....all I did was wire brush it. But looking at that nightmare of a job to come....the rear fender...I decided to save all my sanding patience for that future chore.

[ATC King]

For future reference, on ATC steering bearings, they are just loose balls and high quality bicycle loose bearings can be bought in small bags for a modest price. There's absolutely no need to buy the OEM Honda bearings or overpay for some low quality generic ATC ones from Amazon or Ebay. It's insane that people are able to sell used ones for more than high quality new ones cost.

I'll have to go and look at the size, but I keep a bag of them for ATCs. Quality bearings, like for Dura Ace level Shimano (Japanese company) hubs aren't expensive at all.

[oldskool83]

1/4" CHROME BALL bearing from any hardware store is a perfect fit for a few cents.

[ATC King]

1/4" CHROME BALL bearing from any hardware store is a perfect fit for a few cents.

Thanks. That saved me some looking, but I did anyway for my own curiosity and I use them so seldom that I forget. I don't even know where I've put the ones I have.

Just so anyone reading knows, that's 1/4" for the 200X and maybe some others.

The hardtail trikes, 185/200 and maybe the smaller ones use 3/16". Just need to know there's a difference and check it out first.

Grade is important, so look at that too. G25 may be overkill for steering bearings, but that's a typical bicycle bearing grade. The grade refers to how round they are. There's some on Amazon, less than $10 for a bag of 100+, supposed to be G25.

I've seen cheap bearing balls actually break, crack apart, and I know they were cheap because of the products they were in. Besides, when new they were probably about as spherical as an egg and smooth as a golf ball.

[knappyfeet]

One fork disassembled.

Tapatalk says "network config"? so I can't upload photos. I can't upload photos on safari, chrome, etc....the only way I was doing it was through Tapatalk and now that that is gone this thread may be as dead as this project is.

A picture is worth a 1000 words but I'll just say things cleaned up nice and all. I think I will just overhaul them vs rebuild as I'm not going to spend the $$ on springs. It already looks like my new budget will be $2000.....and even at that I may pass it.

These projects love $$.

[knappyfeet]

Trying out postimage......see how it looks.

A picture of some tidbits from the fork.

[knappyfeet]

Internals of one fork all cleaned up and inspected.

I'm going for a poor man's overhaul. Already have the seals and got o-rings that will replace everything. Going to use some pvc for a little preload and Walmarts best ATF. That should give it life for another 20 years of sitting.

[knappyfeet]

1 tube down 1 to go.

All serviced & assembled & ready to go.

I havent added ATF yet or zip tied that gator.... will do both of those when they are on the bike. Now on to the next & final one

[knappyfeet]

While on the forks I've been contemplating the front caliper.

My new budget is $2000. I feel confident I could have made my initial $1500 budget if I would have also stuck to my initial plan of just getting it going....probably well under $1500. Doing anything cosmetic is more money than doing practically anything else on any project.......& it looks like at some point in this project I decided to go the cosmetic route…. not all the way but still more than I initially planned so hence the new budget. Plus 2 years ago when I started this rescue things weren't so costly.

Every aspect of this caliper is stuck solid... everything is frozen and nothing's moving. I'm going to let it sit in some penetrating oil but even if I have to splurge on a new one it's not a budget buster. It kinda goes new caliper with everything $45. Just the caliper & not the carrier $35. Rebuild kit with everything $25. We will see how everything loosens up.

[Tri-Z 250]

Blaster penetration oil, don’t bust your knuckles: bust your nutz!
200x the best buddy bike ever made, anybody at beginner to expert level of experience can have a great day on it.

Caliper- call Cycles R Us is a salvage yrd that offers new parts as well. Might have to use the old mount bracket but call em
330-760-2629

[knappyfeet]

Caliper- call Cycles R Us is a salvage yrd that offers new parts as well. Might have to use the old mount bracket but call em 330-760-2629

Right on man....thanks for the lead.

Things are soaking in Kroil right now but I don't have high hopes for it....it's just a sense. I mean the rear caliper & both front and rear masters needed to be replaced.....I don't think the front would be any different. It's the cost of leaving things outside neglected for years....it's always the brake systems that need replacing.

Just about to dive into tube #2. Everything I do right now is getting me ever so closer to that coveted title..."rolling chasis".

[knappyfeet]

Air valve caps came in.

It's amazing how 100 pieces can come clear across the earth to my door for $1.99 plus tax.....$2.30. It just led me to thinking about how I can't unfreeze that front caliper but it's OK because somewhere in the world I can get a complete one ready for installation for $45.00.....that's going to be the plan.

It's now $2.55 from the same seller I purchased them from....still a steal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22585173127...mis&media=COPY




While I'm at it I'll probably get a new repop rear reservoir from clear access the globe as well for $21.

I'm going to see if I can clean it and also squeeze it together with some heat as over the years of neglect it became swollen and cracked and it may not hold fluid at all.... I don't know

Add $2.00 to that $1493 already spent for a grand total of $1495.

[knappyfeet]

We had a nice day so I decided to see if I can bleach some of the yellow out of the reservoir. It came out better.....I can get it probably better if it had a couple of more sunny days but that's not in the forecast so it will do as is.

I also decided to start using the Autosol after plating because a couple of plated items are starting to lightly rust.....that dosent happen very often if you use Autosol at the end.

Also just waiting for some painted items to throughly dry before I start to handle them for assembly.





upload an image

[oldskool83]

Your total will just increase, but for what these kids these days think the stuff is worth going in clamped-out shape your better to just build and touch every peice in some way shape or form. I had $2100 into my not to stock build. Kids near me whats $2500 3000 for the I KNOW WHAT I HAVE junkers.

If you have not touched brake lines yet, I'd highly recommend not using the OEM rubber 40 year old lines. I recently had a trx200sx that would just not build pressure correctly after everything was rebuild. It took new stainless steel lines I had to figure out what might work and new OEM bleeder screws due to the old seats just being smashed by multiple times of manual bleeding. I sell 1st and 2nd gen 200x stainless steel break lines on ebay if interested.