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Thread: 1984 Honda 200X Rescue

  1. #241
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,771
    Powder coat the axle, than you do nothing but focus on something else for a bit

  2. #242
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    What about getting the rust off the axle, painting it, then putting some red heat shrink on it? I think that'd add a bit of pizazz and hold up better than just paint.
    That's a great idea.

    I may be wrong but I think I remember seeing "axle protectors" long ago. They were kinda like those foam pool sticks/floaters or handlebar pads except they were on the axle and sold as "saving your axle from bumps and scrapes." I'm probably going the shrink tubing route.

    The axles widest point is 1.25 inches.......so inch and a half ones should work. With so many different options, oldskools idea of powder coating in a zinc type finish is a great idea.
    Last edited by knappyfeet; 03-15-2023 at 11:40 PM.

  3. #243
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Got the rear disc & fasteners cleaned.

    I let them soak in the acid overnight then a quick spray with the Eastwood Argent. If you look good you feel good.....and this thing is feeling terrific.

    While looking for the chain, I came across these items that were delivered awhile back from the family member I purchased the 200x from. The paddles are nice for the sand but what's more nicer is the swing arm skid plate. That's straight as an arrow but needs to be refinished..........along with those fasteners.











    Last edited by knappyfeet; 03-19-2023 at 04:55 PM.

  4. #244
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    CT
    --
    206
    I've just come across these cleaning discs by Pryme MX that seem to work magic on old parts. I hadn't thought about using them for an axle but they might be just the ticket.

    https://www.prymemx.com/

    https://youtu.be/StZre3ottUo

  5. #245
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Thank you floydechoes.

    Got the shock cleaned up and degunked/etc.

    My wife says.."just get it running already".

    To me there's WAY more to it than "just get it running". I could of "just got it running" probably the next day I got it......just clean out the carb and airbox and changed the oil and that would work. But there's so much more. I want this machine to work and operate properly....to instill confidence. That means grease all the linkages and remove rust and clean fasteners and bearings and seals and chainge fluids and new pads and chains and cables.....properly adjust everything to specs....the list goes on and on.


















  6. #246
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Decided to spray the swinger today.

    This Sata minijet is simply perfect for small tight spaces and lays down great.

    Unfortunately it couldn't compensate for operator error. It's been awhile since I painted and there was something in the line that made the airflow "sputter" and I was rushing and blah blah blah.....totally me though. I think it was in the in-line moisture separator. I'm still satisfied and it will do just fine.

    On a different note..... Those welds from Honda on the swingarm seem a little sloppy. It's not what I'm used to seeing from them. They even looked slopier than the welds on my 1975 CB125S.

    For now the minijet is getting a thorough cleaning. I have a medium Devilbiss sprayer I could use but it wont be as good.











  7. #247
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,231
    Care to share how you cleaned the shock up and if you replated the bolts?

    I ask because some people may see it and think; wire wheel. Steel particles embedded in aluminum won't do well for the short or long term when exposed to moisture. You probably know that, but other people not so much.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  8. #248
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Care to share how you cleaned the shock up and if you replated the bolts?

    I have things just sitting in various buckets with various solutions....soaking away.

    The shock was just disassembled and cleaned, and the fasteners, spring keeper, dog bone linkage,,etc was all plated.

    Normally, things will set in the solvent, then move to a rust remover or acid, then to the zinc plating.

    When I got my Eastwood kit, it came with Autosol polish. After an item is plated, it is grey and dull and gunky. Polishing straight out of the solution takes too much time, and if you use a wheel, you can burn through the zinc. I just use fine steel wool to take the grey dullness out. I usually plate at least 2 times...usually 3 times as I've found only plating once can sometimes allow rust to happen. After you steel wool it polishing is way easier. For this project though I am satisfied with just using steel wool to brighten up the plating.

    When I exhaust all the zinc I just purchase more anodes from Amazon







    Just wanted to add......I mainly zinc the fasteners and hardware for 2 reasons. 1....it makes things look a little cleaner but more importantly it protects the metal after you've used acid and the like to remove rust and corrosion. If you didn't it would probably rust in a week....even being greased.
    Last edited by knappyfeet; 03-28-2023 at 01:20 AM.

  9. #249
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,771
    Whats that kinda stuff run? Locally there's a shop we use to use which was $125 lot charge for like up to 50lbs to do plating. I thought it was fair but never had enough hardware to pretty up so I always bought new stainless since it ended up being cheaper.

    LMK.

  10. #250
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool83 View Post
    Whats that kinda stuff run? Locally there's a shop we use to use which was $125 lot charge for like up to 50lbs to do plating. I thought it was fair but never had enough hardware to pretty up so I always bought new stainless since it ended up being cheaper.

    LMK.
    I don't think the whole kit cost more than $80-$90..... and it's so simple to use it insults my intelligence.

    I've taken fasteners out for professional plating and I've had better results from the Copycad Caswell system doing it myself..... it's just a much higher cost to run and unlike the flexibility of the Eastwood system once you mix the batch you need to use it.

    Whether you're doing one bolt or a batch of fasteners as long as you have the sync annodes and the battery you're good to go with Eastwood.

    Just to edit......I've been using the same Eastwood solution for the last 6-7 years. I just purchase new batteries and zinc anodes when needed.....so cool.

  11. #251
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    The rear sprocket arrived. $26

    Grand total $1301.

    The sad thing is the sprocket will mount but not with original bolts. It seems the channel on the sprocket where the fixed bolt rests in is too wide..... so when you go to tighten it just spins. I guess I can run a traditional bolt all the way through, but that's not proper.

    I may just send it back and look for a proper sprocket with a narrower channel...a correct channel


  12. #252
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    I dont know what I was thinking.... I guess I just had a senior moment or something.

    Sprocket installed on carrier..no issues

    Now I have to figure out how to make the last $199 of my budget available for

    New master cylinder rear
    New seat cover
    New fork seals
    New front caliper or rebuild
    1 pint of Cardinal red
    Petcock
    Etc








  13. #253
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    Earth
    --
    78
    Did you not remove the rear axle and replace the bearings? Why? You should.

    Way back in the thread you have the jetting listed as a 100 main. That's for a 200s carb. You may have already found the right # but it's a 108 for 83 and a 110 for 84-85. Pilot is 38 for 83 and 40 for 84-85. Use the bigger jet sizes. 40 and 110.

    What you're heading towards sells for 5-7k in the fb groups every day so don't let your budget bother you that much.
    Last edited by Shad Owe; 04-01-2023 at 10:07 AM.

  14. #254
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Quote Originally Posted by Shad Owe View Post
    Pilot is 38 for 83 and 40 for 84-85. Use the bigger jet sizes. 40 and 110.
    A voice of reason from the past.....thank you for that. I have some 110s in my box of jets.

    Nothing going on other than squaring away the swingarm and letting some items bathe away in acid....... let that do the work for me.






  15. #255
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,762
    Rear master came in....$45.

    So far, $1346 spent. There's a lot to be spent on old, non-running neglected ATCs.....more than one would expect. At least to get them right. If I just started spending money willy-nilly on this thing, I could be at $3000 easy. I'm glad I purchased the tires when I did because they sure aren't $50 each anymore.

    I attempted to disassemble the rear, but it was no use. The Chinese knock-off sure does look the part.

    The forks do not leak at all, but I find it impossible to expect they won't after some use. If I exceeded my budget, it would be for new fork springs and a decal set....a repop of the 1984 set.

    For now, i'm going to start to work on the front forks...... clean them up and put new seals, o rings, ATF, maybe a little pre loading, and new Schrader valves.






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