Honda ATC only neutral and first gear

[Tortuga]

First post and glad I found a community to congregate with! I recently acquired THREE Honda atcs, not sure on the year's of each (I have not yet decoded the vin's yet). But I've got two 110's and a 90. Out of the lot one runs, rest will be slow works in process. The running 110 i've got (I believe it's an 84'), will shift from N to first and won't go any higher. I did a bit of research before joining the forum and wanted to see if I was missing anything obvious. Will be following these steps this evening:

1) Adjust clutch
2) Open crankcase cover and look for anything broken/missing on clutch assembly
3) Maybe replace clutch?

Is there anything else I should try/check?
Also what's the lever on the side that has L and H with arrows?

[Footy]

First post and glad I found a community to congregate with! I recently acquired THREE Honda atcs, not sure on the year's of each (I have not yet decoded the vin's yet). But I've got two 110's and a 90. Out of the lot one runs, rest will be slow works in process. The running 110 i've got (I believe it's an 84'), will shift from N to first and won't go any higher. I did a bit of research before joining the forum and wanted to see if I was missing anything obvious. Will be following these steps this evening:

1) Adjust clutch
2) Open crankcase cover and look for anything broken/missing on clutch assembly
3) Maybe replace clutch?

Is there anything else I should try/check?
Also what's the lever on the side that has L and H with arrows?

That is a low and high range sub-transmission. It gives you slow gears for climbing hills and working. Gives high gears for more speed on flat ground.

If I had to guess I would say there is damage to the shifting forks , gears, or shift drum. I hope you find it just needs a clutch adjustment.

[shortline10]

Pull the clutch cover and inspect all the shift linkage . Lots to go wrong there with heavy footed shifters .

[Tortuga]

So adjusted the clutch and on ground I can see it’s going thru all gears, changed the oil and saw a good amount of gray metallic surface contamination, guessing clutch. Went for a test run but engine died after 3 mins and wouldn’t stay running again. I swapped the kill switch from another atc on it so need to double check wiring diagram to make sure that’s why it won’t start. Will keep y’all posted

[350for350]

Just remember that these machines are often neglected and abused. They may require a lot of time, effort and four letter words to get them into good operational shape. Don't get frustrated and give up.

[ATC King]

Pull the right (clutch) cover and check #8,9,10, 12, 13, 14, and 15. You're looking for broken springs, cracks and breaks in the metal arms, and even just loose bolts. Absolute worst case scenario would be part #15 broken out of the engine case. It happens, and the aforementioned heavy foots are the culprit.


https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...ork-shift-drum


If it goes and idles in gear, it's not the clutch.

[Footy]

Pull the right (clutch) cover and check #8,9,10, 12, 13, 14, and 15. You're looking for broken springs, cracks and breaks in the metal arms, and even just loose bolts. Absolute worst case scenario would be part #15 broken out of the engine case. It happens, and the aforementioned heavy foots are the culprit.


https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...ork-shift-drum


If it goes and idles in gear, it's not the clutch.

I agree. I had a Suzuki DRZ110 kids bike and one of the springs failed and it was stuck in 1st gear. It was either #10 or 14. Been too long and I don't recall which.

[Tortuga]

That schematic ATC KING is exactly what I needed, as well as which areas to look for. Thanks a million

Side note, regarding on/off switch (kill switch), engine should be able to run without it connected correct? I was under the belief the switch only provides a ground to stop operation.