350X refresh questions

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Thanks fellas I’ll give those things a try. I think the paint is in good shape just crusty/gooey.

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Gonna crack the engine open soon. Wondering what I’ll find? I wouldn’t dare guess the miles/hours but it’s definitely up there! Doesn’t smoke, still has plenty of compression etc. We’ve never so much as checked the valve clearance. Been one hell of a good machine. Anyway I’ll take a close look at the cam journals and rockers etc.


Wish I knew how to post pics haha. Many failed attempts..,

[Footy]

Gonna crack the engine open soon. Wondering what I’ll find? I wouldn’t dare guess the miles/hours but it’s definitely up there! Doesn’t smoke, still has plenty of compression etc. We’ve never so much as checked the valve clearance. Been one hell of a good machine. Anyway I’ll take a close look at the cam journals and rockers etc.


Wish I knew how to post pics haha. Many failed attempts..,

You have to use the feature that says"Go Advanced". Also the photo size has to be small.

[Dirtcrasher]

Gonna crack the engine open soon. Wondering what I’ll find? I wouldn’t dare guess the miles/hours but it’s definitely up there! Doesn’t smoke, still has plenty of compression etc. We’ve never so much as checked the valve clearance. Been one hell of a good machine. Anyway I’ll take a close look at the cam journals and rockers etc.


Wish I knew how to post pics haha. Many failed attempts..,

I can only do it on my phone now. We used to use Tapatalk which was a pain but it worked, or we'd upload pictures with photobucket (which often disappeared years later).

If you changed your oil and or ran good oil, I'll bet you'll find the bottom end is perfect and the crank will be fine too. As well as the cylinder head journals and camshaft, even the valves if there was no smoke (valve seals can't hurt). I've been in quite a few 350X motors and the timing chain guides just don't seem to wear out (unlike the 200X), only the timing chain stretches over time. You probably just need a complete gasket set, a top end, and maybe a clutch. Even the kickstart gears last forever on these motors. The ATC350X is an excellent engine!!

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Thanks again fellas I appreciate the help. I’m to the point I can start welding on the swamps brackets. Kit looks great, it all seems to fit good, nice instructions as well.

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Well I have all my brackets welded on. Swamps did a great job of putting this kit together

Time to get it ready for powder coat. Honda R109 is what I’m after does that sound right? I’d like an exact match on that red and possibly add a little metallic to make it pop. What do you guys think?

[J!m]

Do they offer a replacement muffler mount bracket? Mine has been cut off…

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Anyone have experience with upgrading the steering stem ball bearings to roller bearings? I see they offer roller bearings but I’m wondering how well they fit?

Do they offer a replacement muffler mount bracket? Mine has been cut off…

I’m not sure on that one. I’m gonna say it’s unlikely

[J!m]

Could someone with their mount intact trace it and scan it along with a ruler for scale? I can laser cut anything, but I don't have one to reference... I'll make a clamp-on option (like I need) as well as an exact replacement for weld-on. Assuming there is any demand beyond me for this.

[J!m]

Guys- I bought a box of ten taillight bulbs. If anyone needs one, let me know. I doubt I'll go through ten in my lifetime...

[Dirtcrasher]

Anyone have experience with upgrading the steering stem ball bearings to roller bearings? I see they offer roller bearings but I’m wondering how well they fit?



I’m not sure on that one. I’m gonna say it’s unlikely

All Balls, Moose, etc, they're all the same steering stem kit. The only issue is "do I use the washer under the lower bearing or not?"; the instructions are generic.

I take out all the old bearings and races, stack them up and measure the height. Compare that the the kit, and that tells me what to do.

Otherwise, if you use the washer under the lower bearing and don't need it, you'll run out of threads on the stem with the adjustment collar (the one with spanner grooves). And you can't remove it without damaging the new bearing pressed on the stem.

The kits fit so many models that they can't give specific instructions. I usually toss the stem and lower clamp in the freezer and the bearing goes on easy, just don't hit on the caged needle bearings, use a piece of pipe that only hits the inner race.

Be aware, lots of people ruin these kits installing them. Just take your time, triple check and be careful.

[rot box]

^thanks for the help I appreciate it