Let the games begin! (1986 350X project)

[dirtwheels]

Most Honda part numbers with the exception of bolts and Hondaline accessories are split in 3 sections. The first section is the prefix which identifies the part. The second section is the bike code and the third section is the version or what makes it unique. Parts that have a Z or letters at the end in the third section indicate that this part is either a plastic part or a painted part and the letter codes indicate the color code.

Lets use the 350X seat as an example:

1985
77100-HA5-000

77100 = Seat
HA5 = 350X
000 = first version

1986
77100-HA5-670

77100 = Seat
HA5 = 350X
670 = second version

The parts that are all specific to the 350X will all have the HA5 designation. But that does not mean that Honda does not also use that part number on another bike. Take the red plastic taillight lens as an example.

Lens, Taillight
33302-965-003

33302 = Lens, Taillight
965 = 200X (1983-1985)
003 = version

This part first showed up on the 1983 200X but was also used on the 200x, 350x, 250r, 200s and trx250r. Case in point, Honda keeps the same part number and just uses it moving forward on whatever bike they choose to use it on. There are still bikes today that use parts like rubber grommets with an HA2 (85-86 250r) designation that have not changed since 1985.

For bolts, it’s either a 2 section or 3 section part number
First section is the type of bolt, ex: dish head flange bolt, over head, pan head, screw, etc…
The second section is the size. Sometimes there is a third section that could be either finish type or version.

96000-06010

96000 - flange bolt
06010 - 6mm diameter, 10mm long

There are also bolts that are more specialized and are more specific to a bike or multiple bikes. These part numbers use the normal 3 section part number with the bike code they were originally made for.

For Hondaline accessories it’s usually a 2 section part number. Example - Speedometer Gear Box for a 350x is 08175-HA500. 08175 = speedometer gearbox. HA5 = 350x.

Hope this info helps.

[J!m]

Got a nice muffler today! Still need a head pipe and heat shields but it’s getting there!

[J!m]

I put together a list of hardware to potentially purchase from bell metric or McMaster and quickly identified that diameter and length code.

[J!m]

Question: Is the 200X seat pan the same as the 350X seat pan?

Obviously, they have different part numbers but without handling both I really have no idea, but maybe others here have had both and can let me know?

[J!m]

I managed to find pictures of both undersides- completely different.

[J!m]

Another puzzler for me…

I took my headlight assembly off last night, and, well, I need to replace almost everything.

But my question is the wiring of the lights to the switch: it seems the switch has connections for one light and of course we have two to light up… I don’t see any intermediate harness on the parts fiche or attached to headlight units I find for sale.

Can someone post some pictures of how things are supossed to look back there? I can make whatever sub harness is needed but I’d like to at least follow the factory design if not get the correct harness to use there.

Thank you!

[J!m]

I just answered my own question.

The connectors on the end of (the correct) switch have a double-female barrel connection to accommodate both headlight's male barrel connectors. Many of the switches I'm seeing for sale do not have this "detail" correct... The switch on my trike is wrong; I assumed it to be an 85 switch, but it seems to be from a different trike- perhaps the 200X the wheels came from.

[J!m]

In case you weren't aware, I enjoy ADHD. So, were jumping in another direction. (this will happen a lot)

I have new wheel bearings and tapered bearings for the triple tree; I may not need them, but I'd hate to have it apart and then have to wait for a bearing kit... So, the forks will come off. They don't appear to be leaking, but like my Defender, this may simply indicate they are empty... There's some "looseness" up front I haven't positively identified, but fork rebuild and new bearings should address it, I think.

Lowers are in okay shape but need some cleaning up. I don't want to polish them; just return them to a clean original look. I did a search and was in the rabbit hole of posts of all sorts on front forks, including polishing techniques, but I just want some guidance like "I used XXX brand mag wheel cleaner, and they came out great!" sort of thing.

Any other tips/tricks I simply MUST know before I start tearing things up further are also appreciated.

[J!m]

Just found this for solving the headlight switch wiring issue, in case anyone else has similar issues:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36527977932...Bk9SR47LgLDHZg

Has the double-female barrel connector AND a vinyl sleeve to cover it (several, it seems) so not a bad deal. Get a similarly priced aftermarket switch and replace the connector. Done.

[BOB MARLIN]

Soft stainless wire wheel on a pedestal grinder works good for the fork lowers if you just want the brushed look. Get the softest and widest you can find. Good old Mothers mag/alum polish works good for me if you want a little shine.

[J!m]

I could glass bead them but that looks different than the "fresh cast" look.

I picked up some non-acid wheel cleaner today (to use on the wheels too) and I'll see how that does.

I don't want bead blasted or brushed (certainly not polished) look. Just want them to look fresh(er).

[BOB MARLIN]

Don't be afraid of a little bit of shine. The 86's look good with a little highlight.
These fork legs were wire brushed then buffed with a wheel. No sanding.

[J!m]

Sorry, kid. College is out of the question…

[Shawn Powell]

Don't be afraid of a little bit of shine. The 86's look good with a little highlight.
These fork legs were wire brushed then buffed with a wheel. No sanding.

Don't be afraid of a little bit of shine. The 86's look good with a little highlight.
These fork legs were wire brushed then buffed with a wheel. No sanding.

Bob, hello. How have you been ? Let’s talk about that un modifed gen 5 bronco sir.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BOB MARLIN]

Hey Shawn,
Been to Rasor lately ?.
The bronco is a brick nose (‘90). 70,000 original miles and was parked for 17 years with a bad ecu. I wanted an OBS but for $4000 I couldn’t turn it down.