new and need help

[butterfingers1]

hey guys, I was looking around the internet and figured you guys could give me a little help. I recently bought a 1985 Honda 200s. It runs great and doest smoke. However when it is running it makes a distinct ticking noise . Some people told me that it was the vlaves and they needed to be adjusted. Then the local honda shop told me that more often than not the sound came from the timing chain. They said to adjust it you needed to first loosen up an 14mm nut thats located n the left side, behind the cylinder. They said you loosen up the big nut, then you take out the 10mm bolt on top. after this you put a 4mm bolt in and that will thread into some shaft that I assumed tensions the timing chain. With the 4mm bolt you can pull the shaft up and that will stop the ticking , how the heck does this work? Thaks for any help guys

[New2ATC]

umm....in my gokart motor ( i dont know if the problem could be on a trike or not) it had a lower rod knock... i dont know why, ut you could hear a clicking noise, my neighbor told me it had lower rod knocking, and thats why he gave it to me.. he said it was nothing too bad...

[thehickfarmer]

i belive their are two rods that expand and get smaller depending on wich way you turn the bolt, bu you need it to expand, and are you sure the noise is coming from the motor,

[butterfingers1]

tried to adjust the rod and didnt really make any progress. However when I started it up it was a little quieter. Then I tried to adjust my valves since it was still rapping. This is where im stuck, I have a .003 feeler guage and I checked the exahust valve and it was right on. Then I checked the intake and I couldnt get the feeler guage in so I loosened it up until I could feel slight drag and tightened it up, when I started it up it rapped worse than it did before. Know I have tried and tried with no luck to at least adjust it back to where it was but no luck. Whats the secret here anyway?

[thehickfarmer]

the secret is to know what your doing, lol, i think we need a few more guys to get in this topic and help you out, i'm still an amature so i don't want to tell you something and then something gets bugered up

[butterfingers1]

im new at this whole OHV thing instead of a flat head or 2 stroke. Might just have to take to the repair shop and have them do it for $40 an hour wich makes me mad I will be surprised if I havent bugered it up already!

[RichinMO]

When you adjusted the valves, was the engine at top dead center, if it wasn't and you adjusted the valves, they will be off. When at TDC, both sets of valves will be loose (you'll be able to move them). You find TDC by pulling out the slotted plug facing up beside the recoild starter. Look in the hole, you'll see the flywheel and it has little marks on it, you want the line with a T to line up with the slot in the case. Thats where you adjust the valves at.

Cam chain, all you do to adjust the cam chain is loosen the big nut behind the cylinder and tighten it back up. Don't mess with the little nut on top. Make sure the engine is warmed up when you do it. If you get the valves adjusted correctly, do the cam chain adjustment again.

[TimSr]

When you adjusted the valves, was the engine at top dead center, if it wasn't and you adjusted the valves, they will be off. When at TDC, both sets of valves will be loose (you'll be able to move them). You find TDC by pulling out the slotted plug facing up beside the recoild starter. Look in the hole, you'll see the flywheel and it has little marks on it, you want the line with a T to line up with the slot in the case. Thats where you adjust the valves at.

Cam chain, all you do to adjust the cam chain is loosen the big nut behind the cylinder and tighten it back up. Don't mess with the little nut on top. Make sure the engine is warmed up when you do it. If you get the valves adjusted correctly, do the cam chain adjustment again.

I agree. The cam chain on these is "self adjusting". Just to clarify, you start it, let it run until its at operating temp, and then, while running, you loosen the nut, and retighten.

[butterfingers1]

I took out that slotted plug above the crankcase, on the flywheel I saw some numbers, and a mark that looked sort of like an arrow pointing in 2 directions, is this the mark? If it is do I just line it up with the hole and adjust the valves there? Thanks for all the help

[butterfingers1]

ok i just went outside and I found a mark that looks like a T but its hard to get it there with the pressure on it. So far I have not adjusted the exhaust valve just intake, since the feeler guage seemed to fit well in the exhaust valve. Now that I have the mark on the T the feeler guage wont even fit into the exhaust valve does this mean they are too tight? By the way Is there anything here I can screw up an it will cost big $$ yo fix? Thanks again guys

[butterfingers1]

I think I have the engine at TDC but im afraid to adjust the exhaust valve for fear I might Mess that up to.

[cliff2302]

if its at TDC then you need not fear about messing it up. I think your problem was before that you didn't have it at TDC whn you adjusted your intake valve, and that is why the sound got worse. Just make sure the T is lined up with the mark in the crankcase and you will be fine. good luck

[butterfingers1]

ok I think I almost have this but I am still confused about 1 thing. When I have the engine at TDC I cannot get the feeler guage between the rocker and valve on the exahaust valve. However when I crank it over and look at the valve until it reaches the point at whee there is no pressure on it the feeler guage fits fine. I thought that at TDC there was no pressure on either valve. Do I know need to adjust bolth? Thanks again for the help and putting up with me being so thickheaded.

[cliff2302]

at TDC, both valves should have no pressure on them. i think that maybe you might be looking at the wrong mark on the flywheel?

[butterfingers1]

what would the right mark look like or should I just crank it over until bolth valves are loose? Thanks