timing chain adjustment in 1983 185s

[crackshot]

Was going to adjust timing chain on 1983 185s and saw the 14mm bolt on engine case but there is a 10mm bolt in the center of the 14mm.
What is the procedure for adjusting the timing chain also.
Anyone have a link for this procedure?

[TheOlderFox]

Basically, loosen the 14, turn the 10 until the adjuster is flush with the surface of the 10. Start up the machine. If the adjust moves a little, you are good, tighten the 14. If no movement lossen up the 10 until you get a little.

[crackshot]

Basically, loosen the 14, turn the 10 until the adjuster is flush with the surface of the 10. Start up the machine. If the adjust moves a little, you are good, tighten the 14. If no movement lossen up the 10 until you get a little.

hmmm....seems a little confuing on what you just said.
turn the 10 until the adjuster is flush with the surface of the 10?
If no movement lossen up the 10 until you get a little. (movement where?)

[smokinp]

Basically, loosen the 14, turn the 10 until the adjuster is flush with the surface of the 10. Start up the machine. If the adjust moves a little, you are good, tighten the 14. If no movement lossen up the 10 until you get a little

yes,adjust the 10 until its even with the 14 then start the trike up and if it(the 10 bolt)moves then it is tighting itself up and if it dosnt move then you have to loosen it up until it moves.When it moves wait for it to stop and then tighten up the 14...

[bigredhead]

Woa... you serious ?

I had that ALL WrOnG... i thought the 14 was the adjustment.. holy cr@p.

[crackshot]

yes,adjust the 10 until its even with the 14


this is what I dont understand. Even with the 14? Even with what?

[thefox]

Basically, loosen the 14, turn the 10 until the adjuster is flush with the surface of the 10. Start up the machine. If the adjust moves a little, you are good, tighten the 14. If no movement lossen up the 10 until you get a little.

That is for the Yamaha 200 and 225.
For the honda you just loosen the 14mm when the bike is running and the chain is adjusted automatically. The 10mm bolt on top is so you can put slack in the chain when assembling the engine.

[crackshot]

That is for the Yamaha 200 and 225.
For the honda you just loosen the 14mm when the bike is running and the chain is adjusted automatically. The 10mm bolt on top is so you can put slack in the chain when assembling the engine.

so loosen the 14mm while running then snug back down and thats it?
dont even mess with 10mm bolt?

[thefox]

so loosen the 14mm while running then snug back down and thats it?
dont even mess with 10mm bolt?

That is it, can't get much easier.

[bigredhead]

i THINK ( not sure but i think ) that when you assemble the engine, you thread in the 14 ml ( with 10 ml removed ) and stick a rod into the hole that the 10 ml would fit into to push down on the tensioner and at the same time snug the 14 ml ( this puts tension on the chain before you start the engine.

Then once it starts, you loosen up the 14 ml again and re-snug it to set the tension properly.


The 10 ml bolt is just there as a hole plug cover for the 14ml.

Does that make sense ?

[crackshot]

i THINK ( not sure but i think ) that when you assemble the engine, you thread in the 14 ml ( with 10 ml removed ) and stick a rod into the hole that the 10 ml would fit into to push down on the tensioner and at the same time snug the 14 ml ( this puts tension on the chain before you start the engine.

Then once it starts, you loosen up the 14 ml again and re-snug it to set the tension properly.


The 10 ml bolt is just there as a hole plug cover for the 14ml.

Does that make sense ?

Yeah that makes sense and don't get cocky with me.
Although the information that was first posted was WRONG. Thanks Fox for clearing that up.

[thefox]

i THINK ( not sure but i think ) that when you assemble the engine, you thread in the 14 ml ( with 10 ml removed ) and stick a rod into the hole that the 10 ml would fit into to push down on the tensioner and at the same time snug the 14 ml ( this puts tension on the chain before you start the engine.

Then once it starts, you loosen up the 14 ml again and re-snug it to set the tension properly.


The 10 ml bolt is just there as a hole plug cover for the 14ml.

Does that make sense ?

Well, kind of. The adjuster is spring loaded so by using a thin rod to push down through the 10mm bolt hole loosens up the adjuster (then you lock it loose by tightening the 14mm). This make putting together the top end easier. Then before you start the engine you loosen the 14mm and the spring roughly tentions the chain. After the engine is started and at an idle then the 14mm can be loosened again and tightened to fully adjust the chain.

[83185s]

lol i had the same prob i didnt even know how to adjust mine but however i did it it worked