If your 185/200 auto clutch is slipping, this thread's for you.

[Studytime]

Okay, my clutch is slipping and I'm not being able to transfer all of my bike's power to the ground.

So far, I've tried to adjust the slack (necessary as clutch shoes wear) and that hasn't helped much.

Well, today I bought four Barnett clutch discs for my 200s. While I was at Winner's Cycle in BTR I talked to one of the salespersons there. I learned that the shoes are probably slipping and that this is a common problem. Once the shoes start to slip then, the discs will glaze over requiring all parts to be replaced. Well, she tried to sell me Honda clutch shoes for $60 a piece (remember we need three). I passed on the shoes, but did learn some. She also said that if the shoes are slipping that there is a good chance they have damaged the drum that they grab. She advised me to take the shoes out and inspect the drum. It is supposed to be completely smooth and not have any ridges in it. If it has ridges it will need to be replaced to the tune of $140-ish from Honda with a 2-week wait. If it looks like there are any grooves machined into the inside of your drum than it's off to see Honda.

So, I have my new clutch discs in hand and tomorrow/soon I plan to dive into the side of my case and she what it looks like.

If you have any information to add to this thread that is of substance and may help people in the future, please add it. I'll be adding my findings and impressions of the Barnett clutches. Also, I recently started another thread about my xr200 cam install, I'll finish that one after I get the new clutch sorted out.

Lastly, if you know of a sourch for the clutch drum (the area the clutch shoes rub on) please advise. Parts Unlimited offers a 3-set of clutch shoes for $50 and they are supposed to be an OEM equivalent part.

Studytime

[RideRed250R]

i doubt its the shoes, the first place for it to slip is the discs not the shoes and to spin the shoes takes alot of power and a 200s sings to the tune of like 10 horses? i say discs or springs
adam

[Studytime]

That's good news to hear. The lady at the parts counter pays her bills selling parts so it's good to hear opinions from the other side.

You guys wouldn't believe how thin a layer of friction material is on those clutch shoes. The service manual gives the thickness that your shoes should spec to so they can be check by this method.

I'd also like to know more about the springs getting weak with time and what this will allow to happen.

Thanks thus far,
Studytime

[atczack]

This is from Dennis Kirk: Part's Unlimited Centrifugal Clutch Shoes for Honda
Fit's: 80-86 Honda ATC 185/200
Price: $52.95
Part # 38-904
Page# 416
Phone# 1-800-328-9280

Also, everytime I replace the clutch plate's/disc's I put heavy duty spring's in there. I can't really tell the difference between stock and H/D, but here's the info on that: Part's Unlimited Vesrah H/D clutch spring's
For: 84-86 Honda 200s
Price: $8.99
Part # 38-813
Page: 414

Hope this help's some. They didn't have the spring that goes with the shoe's.

[83185s]

hmm i may have to check out mine..its not gettin up as fast as it used to and i dont think the clutch has ever been tinkered with so i may have to check that..thanks for the info

[Dave223]

hey studytime,
take your time and learn how to change those clutches, mine are about due for a change and your in drivin distance!! Mine is startin to slip some and I want to go down to a 9 tooth front sprocket so I know it wont last long.....Im just undecided whether to tear into it and restore it or go to the Spillway one more time????

Off topic, Im building a shed for someone and across the fence is a 185s sittin in the weeds...I want it BAD

[Blown 331]

I used to work at a machine/ weld shop and I welded up the grooves in my drum and machined it back smooth, works great.

[Studytime]

Hmm... very interesting. What machine did you smooth it back out on? If mine is grooved I may opt to do this. Did you TIG that or MIG it?

Studytime

[Blown 331]

Mig welder. then chucked it up in a lathe. I measured the diameter before I started and when I turned it back down I made the inside drum diameter .010 smaller than what it measured before I started. Don't ask my why I did that, I figure there had to be some wear so I just guessed it. Works great though. When I worked there I didn't do much machine work so I got a little help squaring the drum up in the lathe.

[wheelie king]

All of this is GREAT info. About 2 weeks ago, I noticed that under a full throttle accelleration, not backing off the gas, imy 185 slips a little in between gears.

Question: (as stated above)- it is more likely to be the discs, not the shoes, right? Mine is all still stock and never been adjusted, so could that be the culprit? Keep in mind this atc was bought new and sat for 20 years.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Studytime]

Mig welder. then chucked it up in a lathe. I measured the diameter before I started and when I turned it back down I made the inside drum diameter .010 smaller than what it measured before I started. Don't ask my why I did that, I figure there had to be some wear so I just guessed it. Works great though. When I worked there I didn't do much machine work so I got a little help squaring the drum up in the lathe.

I'm not visualizing how to secure it in the lathe, but if it's been done once hopefully it can be done again. Thanks for the information. The new drum costs upwards of $120. Even for people who have to pay for an hour of machine work at a shop this might be a cheaper alternative.

Studytime

[Blown 331]

It's kind hard to describe the lathe jaw we used, like I said I haven't done much maching work- I'm sure it has a name. But anyway we clamped it between the drum itself and the gear. The jaws cleared the larger gear on back and clamped on the flat surface. I figure you have a better chance of keeping everything square that way than if you clamp right to the outside of the drum. If you could somehow secure the drum from the inside where the shaft goes through that would be best. My way worked just fine though. I did 2 of them, I have a welded up spare floating around at my dads somewhere.

[Studytime]

First things first, I have some other cares to attend to, but the latest information I have gathered is as follows.

The centrifugal clutch shoes are what get you rolling. They are responsible for your initial acceleration.

The clutch discs take over once you are rolling and they are responsible for securing the connecting between the crank and drive sprocket once you are already moving and, of course, responsible for top end.

Low speed/RPM slip- clutch shoes
High speed/RPM slip- friction plates

I'm learning more as I go. Thanks for the information provided by you fellow board members.

Studytime

[Blown 331]

First things first, I have some other cares to attend to, but the latest information I have gathered is as follows.

The centrifugal clutch shoes are what get you rolling. They are responsible for your initial acceleration.

The clutch discs take over once you are rolling and they are responsible for securing the connecting between the crank and drive sprocket once you are already moving and, of course, responsible for top end.

Low speed/RPM slip- clutch shoes
High speed/RPM slip- friction plates

I'm learning more as I go. Thanks for the information provided by you fellow board members.

Studytime

So you're saying when you have a clutch slipping in 5th gear those are the clutch plates not the shoes? I just assumed it would be the centrifugal clutch but you could be right, never though about that. Where did you come up with that?

[83185s]

does anyone elses in here kinda keep reved goin up a small incline when u shift from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th? mine stays reved a little..well how it was before i shifted and then about 1 second if that it goes into gear (it feels like) and goes again till i shift again and it does the same..nothin wrong with downshifting tho