Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
Definitely dont buy those Honda centrifugal shoes.
We put in about 3 or 4 sets of those parts unlimited ones and they work great.
Only bad thing about them is that we had to file/grind them down to get them to slip in the hub. When they are fresh and tight they pull while idiling in gear but after a few rides they loosen up.
1986 350X K&N filter, DG Krome Power exhaust
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At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
Originally Posted by Blown 331
I came up with that from a guy that seems to know what he was talking about that worked behind our local parts counter. If you read the post right before this one, it says how the new parts unlimited were pulling his ATC at idle. This would agree with my latest findings- the clutch shoes are for low-speed operation.
Studytime
Got The Holeshot
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
Its always the drum/shoes that causes the slip, top and bottom. When the shoes and drum wear out there is not enough pressure put on the drum to stop the slipping effect. The disc clutch is mainly there to help with gear changes. That is why there is one less friction plate and steel plate in that clutch compared to a normal XL185 and 200x manual clutch. The drum and shoes takes most of the load.
Banned
The day begins with 3WW
The clutch plates on an autoclutch work exactly the same way as a manual clutch, but they are tied to the shift lever instead of a hand lever. If you lift the shifter and hold it up, its the same as pulling a clutch lever. They are always engaged, and only disengage for a moment when you shift. For this reason they tend to last forever, because unlike a manual clutch, you dont slip it every time you take off, and you dont slip it while riding as you would a manual clutch. Contrary to popular belief, what wears a clutch out most quickly is frequent slipping as part of your driving practices, which doesnt happen on an autoclutch. Yes, you can slip it with the shifter, but its not common practice, though it is the correct method for doing a holeshot on an autoclutch. Heavy duty springs on these wont do much since they arent slipped anyways.
The centrifugal clutch is a separate unit, and as the name implies, requires centrifugal force to make the shoes spin outward and engage the drum. Centrifugal force is controlled by RPMs. Every time you give it gas, it spins faster and the shoes engage, and every time you let off the throttle, they disengage which is what keeps you from stalling, no matter what gear. These take the brunt of wear because they engage and disengage every time you hit and let off the throttle. If they pull when you idle, it means your idle RPM is too high. In the case of aftermarket, it could mean the pads are thicker, beyond Honda's normal tolerance. This is not really a problem though, beacuse its a lot easier to take pad off than to add it. If ist due to pad thickness, it should quit after several miutes of riding.
Slippage on these, if not due to wear, is usually from inadequate RPMs, meaning you are operating in too high of a gear, or you have geared up for freeway riding to obtain that almighty "top speed" but your motor no longer turns enough RPMs in low gear to make it fully engage and take off. Its a big from for an autoclutch to gear too high for the power your motor can deliver. A mechanical cuase can be when or if the springs on the clutch shoes get weak. This will cause them to engage prematurely at lower RPMs where they tend to slip rather than grab. The stiffer that spring the higher the RPMs before the shoes will engage, but when they do, it will be a crisp grab. Its common practice to use heavier springs on these shoes on two strokes with hi rev pipes so that they will take off in the powerband. You lose performance if you go too high on a 4 stroke and opeate above the power band.
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
A few years back I had the same problem with my 200E, Being the cheap sort of guy I am, I found a budget fix for this. As luck would have it I was working in a Brake Rebonding shop, I brought the 3 clutch shoes in and got the workshop guy to bond on some industrial woven lining that is suitable for running in oil, the material was too thick but I just thinned it out on the linishing machine.
As for the grooves in the drum, I just left them there, since I had the shoes bonded with no grooves in them, and the drum did have grooves in it, ended up with the same result. worked fine for me for a couple of years until I sold it, its probably still running.!!
New to the board
Arm chair racerNew to the board
Hey Studytime,
Thanks for the info. I'm here in Baton Rouge with a '85 200s that is having some clutch trouble. I ran by T-Raxx out on 61 the other day and she quoted me $45 for the 3 shoes together if I'm not mistaken. She didn't have a drum though. I just haven't pulled the trigger yet on buying them. Also, www.hyperparts.com or crosstec.com seems to have good prices on clutch parts. I'm definitely having low end problems with mine. My wheeler's just not up real high on the priority list right now.
Jake
1985 Honda 200x/s (auto x)
"Silly is our natural state, serious is just something we have to do until we can be silly again."--Mike Myers' dad
Worthless, would be a vast improvement.
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
so is it the shoes or disks that fail usually?
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
The shoes wear faster and give the most trouble.
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Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
you dont really need a compression gauge, just take the plugs out, and put ** fingure over the hole, pull it over, and if * get good compression, it should push ** fingure off, or atleast move it around, also the cylinders could be all scored up which would just totally mess it up, happened to my friends old 1970 artic cat, we had to buy a new 760 engine.. but. you could re-hone it if the marks in teh cylinder arnt too bad.
Worthless, would be a vast improvement.
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
What the heck you talkin' about?
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