Is there any way to get the centrifugal clutch to come in later on a 185s?

[StangLX302]

The effect I'm trying to get is sort of like installing a high stall torque converter in a street/strip car. It makes a huge difference.

Also, I had a gas R/C car and the clutch set-up was VERY simular to my 185s (3 shoe set up). I installed stiffer springs on it and that thing used to launch really hard out of the hole after that.

I'm thinking this would work one of two ways: 1. A stiffer set of springs. Does anyone sell a stiffer set of springs? 2. Lighten up the stock shoes by drilling several holes in the sides of them (the metal part).

What do you guys think?

[ATCnut]

One thing you can do with your 185s is to hold the shifter down (or up). While the shifter is held, the plate clutch is disingaged. Rev the motor, and let the shifter loose. you will get the same effect. was the old school way to wheelie the old auto clutch three wheelers.

[TrikerR]

im pretty sure there is a nut on the outside of the clutch case...i think this is how you change when the clutch engages.

[StangLX302]

One thing you can do with your 185s is to hold the shifter down (or up). While the shifter is held, the plate clutch is disingaged. Rev the motor, and let the shifter loose. you will get the same effect. was the old school way to wheelie the old auto clutch three wheelers.

Tried that. Ended up on the ground on my ***!!! LOL

[MTS]

Tried that. Ended up on the ground on my ***!!! LOL

sit on the tank lol.....for drag racing i do that but still it seams to lift my fat *** up some anyways :P

[Mobular]

I've often wondered about this very subject. The only feasable solution that i can come up with is to lighten the clutch shoes. The lighter the shoes, the later they will expand and lockup, right? I'd get a second set of shoes, and on a small gram scale, lighten each shoe equally until the desired lockup point is reached. This method will most likely involve many assembly and teardowns until you get it right.

Any holes in my theory?

[StangLX302]

Sounds like a plan.

[MTS]

why would you need them lighter?? its an auto clutch so you just hold the clutch in, rev to the desired powerband is and let er go? i thought.....=s

[TimSr]

On the little two stroke racers they use heavier springs in conjunction with a top end pipe, but on your 4 stroke, I doubt it will give you the desired affect unless you've done something that significantly alters your stock powerband towrds the top. This is assuming your current springs are not weakened or stretched out causing it to kick in before its supposed to.
Lightening the shoes as Moblar suggested would have the same affect, but could be costly if you dont like the results.

[StangLX302]

I'll try it with the old stock ones that are on there now first. If I lighten them up too much, I'll just get some new ones (probably due anyways because they are original) and lighten those up too, just less.

TimSr,

Yes, I plan on doing a bunch of mods. Bigger cam, bigger carb and fully porting the head. (already has exhaust, filter, ported intake, a gear)

The stock ones worn out? I bet that might be part of the problem. I thought of that too. My trike will actually start moving forward, slowly, in first gear without even giving it gas. It's not supposed to, is it?

[StangLX302]

why would you need them lighter??

More performance out of the hole.

its an auto clutch so you just hold the clutch in, rev to the desired powerband is and let er go? i thought.....=s

It's a little more complicated than that. Have you ever driven or rode in a car with a high stall converter? A high stall converter does a whole lot for performance. It gives sort of on purpose, controlled amount of slip to keep the engine up in it's powerband.

[StangLX302]

Just thought of something. Some of you might be wondering why the heck I want to do all this to a "just" 185s and why don't I just sell it and buy a 200x or something. The answer is: I honestly don't know. I like my lil 185s and I like a challenge. It'd also be great to put a whoopen on a "faster" "better" machine with "just" a 185s. I've already beaten some dude on a 400 something or other 4x4 quad. The look on his face was priceless.

[Studytime]

Not to shoot your theory down, but aftermarket converters have a lot more to them than just the "stall". Other factors such as efficiency and stall torque ratio are VASTLY more important than stall speed. This is why you can buy a $150 3000 stall th350 converter and a $1200+ 3000 stall converter.

For what it's worth I think I read a thread about a 200s on this site that was modified for a higher clutch grab point.

I really doubt you'd see any improvement in acceleration with this change. Just a simple front sprocket change would seem like a better idea to me. This would keep RPMs up in every gear as you'd get to max engine speed sooner in each hear. Do you know you have less agressive gearing than the 200s?

Also, as for wanting to leave the line at a higher engine RPM, do what everyone here is saying. Just hold-up on the shifter. You should measure the performance potential of this modification. You could do so by having your podnuh measure your time to get to a certain distance leaving the line in 1st from a stop normally- and then holding the shift lever and popping it. If you think it's worth it, then go from there.

If you just want to tinker, I say read up on your head porting and transfer whatever information you find over to a 185/200 head. This could be fun too.

Just some friendly suggestions.
Studytime

OH! If you try drilling holes, each shoe needs to have the same center of mass or one will have the potential to wear faster than another even if they weight the same.

[Mobular]

Any results on this idea??

[StangLX302]

No, I've been working a LOT of hours lately ($$$$$!!!!!). Plus, the way it's been snowing around here lately, I think it's trying to make up for the last five years. LOL