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Thread: Breaking the beads on tires... any clever methods?

  1. #1
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    Breaking the beads on tires... any clever methods?

    I see there are bead breakers for 80 bucks or so but would like to know if there are other methods that are less costly (like free) to do.

  2. #2
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    Utility Kknife !

    Get a heavy duty one.. don't bother with the 2 $ cheapo combo packs.... get a good quality break away blade knive .. the type with 8 inch replacable blades with a new never used sharp blade.

    slice them right off. cheap and quick !
    Currently :

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    84 125 M - The Mini-SX not running yet. but won't be long.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigredhead
    Utility Kknife !

    Get a heavy duty one.. don't bother with the 2 $ cheapo combo packs.... get a good quality break away blade knive .. the type with 8 inch replacable blades with a new never used sharp blade.

    slice them right off. cheap and quick !
    thats fine, IF you dont want to ever use the tire again, 95% of the time it is eaiser to take it to a tire shop and have them break the bead, or take some canola oil mixed with gas(to thin it out) pouer it around the bead, then take a sledge and hit the tire as close to the rim as you can faierly hard and this should break the bead.
    1985 Tri-Z-

    Quote Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
    Just hit the Freakin Gas and Hold on!!!!!

  4. #4
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    There are special types of s used to break the beads, but more often than not you'll end up damaging the aluminum atv rims. Been down that road many times. I have the CMP $80 bead breaker which works well on 8 inch rims, but it rarely works on 9" aluminum Honda rims. I use a Coats 50-50 rim clamp machine, found in my buddy's tire shop. Works great every time and no damage to the rim. A good quality rubber lubricant (like Skid) and some prybars are all you need after that. Just remember, nothing in life is free, and more often than not, if you try to cheap out, you just end up costing yourself more money. You might be better off just taking it to a tire shop (commercial tire service or turf equipment service place).

  5. #5
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    uh pry bar?? if u dont mind dingin trailprotrailpro rims alittle..
    trikes owned:
    85' 200m - sold
    84' 200x - sold
    83' 185s - sold
    82' 185s - sold
    85' 350x !!! - selling

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigredhead
    Utility Kknife !

    Get a heavy duty one.. don't bother with the 2 $ cheapo combo packs.... get a good quality break away blade knive .. the type with 8 inch replacable blades with a new never used sharp blade.

    slice them right off. cheap and quick !
    Sounds good in theory, but every one I ever tried to cut off had steel belts in the bead. I thought they all did. Does anybody actually make an ATV tire that doesnt have them?

  7. #7
    bonkers_200s's Avatar
    bonkers_200s is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    As little as the damage may be, I wouldnt go dumping anything petroleum based on your tire bead, the damage may be minimal, and you may say I'm a bit radical, but gas, oil......anything petroleum based, is going to coagulate the rubber, not something you want too take effect when you're doing 60 down the road.

    Dish soap does the same thing, it's cheaper, and it won't coagulate the rubber, drip it heavely around the bead, go away for 20 minutes-half hour, beat it till your arm hurts, I find a dead blow works better than a rubber mallet.

    It's pretty hard too put one on or off, easier too put one on usually. IMHO it's worth paying the guy at tire discount center 5 bucks, and a decent tip if he was fast about it.
    If you can't fix it with a , its an electrical problem.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonkers_200s
    As little as the damage may be, I wouldnt go dumping anything petroleum based on your tire bead, the damage may be minimal, and you may say I'm a bit radical, but gas, oil......anything petroleum based, is going to coagulate the rubber, not something you want too take effect when you're doing 60 down the road.

    Dish soap does the same thing, it's cheaper, and it won't coagulate the rubber, drip it heavely around the bead, go away for 20 minutes-half hour, beat it till your arm hurts, I find a dead blow works better than a rubber mallet.

    It's pretty hard too put one on or off, easier too put one on usually. IMHO it's worth paying the guy at tire discount center 5 bucks, and a decent tip if he was fast about it.
    yea uhuh, petrolium based lubricant is gona harm the tire, RIIIIIGHT, my dad has been doin this for 20+ years, works great,usin dish soap you have to wait for it to sink in for a half hour what ever too, this stuff is just a CANOLA based oil with some gas in it to thin it out, it as for usein a big , it is a little hasty if you havent dont it befor and you prolly will ding your rim....but i have used it lots with no problems, but in yourcase it problem is just easier as mentiond to bring it to the tire shop and the guy can have it off in 2 mins...
    1985 Tri-Z-

    Quote Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
    Just hit the Freakin Gas and Hold on!!!!!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimSr
    Sounds good in theory, but every one I ever tried to cut off had steel belts in the bead. I thought they all did. Does anybody actually make an ATV tire that doesnt have them?
    I thought the same too.

    I did actually cut one off one time and it had the steel at the bead portion but being incased in the rubber, I did not see it at 1st. No wonder the blade stopped slicing! Took me 20 minutes per side with all kinds of tools to get it off.

    Not worth the hassle.

  10. #10
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    Always took them to the tire shop down the road with them charging me a 7.50 fee for each one or if the guy is in a bad mood that day it would be $10. Always works better when I send my wife. It's always cheaper then, because she knows them from the line of work she does or did at one time.

    I just figured there might be someone on here that made their own device some how.

    I'll probably end up taking it there again.

  11. #11
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    Pay the money and be done with it. It is a pain in the butt. A lot of bead breakers wont break them. I just let the tire shop break the bead. A lot less trouble. I know it sucks, but its often the only way.
    Clay Whitman
    Newnan, GA

    AMSOIL DEALER

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  12. #12
    svo58 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    I used the front tire of my bronco (it works with a car too),if its a steel rim run over the ATC tire with the front tire (have someone looking so you don't hit the rim,just the tire) run the tire over and it brakes the beed,if it is hard to brake ,stop on the tire and jump on it to brake it or use a lump and beat the tire ,this allways worked for me,I do it on golf cart tires and they are small never wrecked a rim,and my 9" honda rims with 25-12-9 tires works like a charm.Good luck .........svo58
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  13. #13
    dogger is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    actually if ya need it don't give it to me. all I have to do is stick it on the rear of my 350x and they never seem to stay on.

  14. #14
    Howdy's Avatar
    Howdy is offline Putting Priorities in Order, Busier than ever. Catch me if you can
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogger
    actually if ya need it don't give it to me. all I have to do is stick it on the rear of my 350x and they never seem to stay on.
    Well tighten the bolts dummy. lmao j/k buddy.
    BTw, did Holic ever send you a set of suspenders? rotflmao
    Howdy

  15. #15
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    I use a $40 tire changer from Harbor Frieght Tools or Northern Tools (they both have it). I have been using it for the last few years and have taken off probably about 20 or so tires with it, the only thing easier would be to pay someone else to do it. The last time I used it I removed 3 tires in about an hour. It's not a high quality tool though, the center post bent the first time it was used but it still works fine.
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 Tri Zinger(current project)
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