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Thread: Synthetic oil in 200s

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Synthetic oil in 200s

    I have a 200s and it seems to developing a little more heat then it should. I was wondering if synthetic oil would affect the centrificul clutch. Would it be more prone to spining i just put in new clutch shoes and it pops wheelies in 3rd but my engine is moded. its not running to lean

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    hey, synthetic will make both clutches slip. try a different brand of oil, or a heavier weight.
    one cylinder is not enough!!

  3. #3
    Studytime is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cylinders
    hey, synthetic will make both clutches slip. try a different brand of oil, or a heavier weight.

    Not sure of how you arrived it's an oil problem. Anyway, I do not recommend running synthetic oil in your trike. The synthetic oil is usually thinner for the same viscosity rating so if you go in and buy a quart of 10w30 you might start burning some oil. Furthermore, it's pointless from a lubrication standpoint. You'd be spending way more on synthetic, whereas; you could run conventional and just change it every 2 weeks for way less money.

    I've found you do more damage not changing oil than you do running a bike/quad/trike extra hard. In my "hot rod" I run synthetic and try to stick to only ~4500/5000 miles between changes. Also, IF it does get VERY hot your synthetic won't break down and form deposits like a conventional oil could.

    Also, how many "low income" (inner city, poorly educated) people have you seen with a recent car that smokes? Makes you wonder how they get a new-ish car to smoke like that. Might be because it's never been serviced.

    Not performing routine maintenance to save money is like rewinding a clock to save time.

    Studytime

  4. #4
    yea...I agree with studytime.I dont run synthetic oil in my trike,try running a good brand like quaker state...
    84 Honda Big Red w/plow
    85 Honda 200X
    88 Honda CR 125
    86 350x(in process of building)
    :trikesown :Beerchug :trikesown

  5. #5
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    i run AMS-OIL 0w-40 FULL SYNTHTIC 4 STROKE OIL , recomended for wet clutchs ect ect quads ect, says on the bottel, this stuff works GREAT i would recomend it to anyone who has to start there trike in cold weather, makes it much easier to start, i also noticed that it dosnt blacken as quickyly as a conventinol oil, the only place i wouldnt recomend a sycnthtic oil in a trike is if it burns oil allredy such as bad rings seats ect, becuse it will burn ALOT more sycnthic oil becuse it is soo much thinner than conventinal......i havent had ANY problems with my clutch with the ams-oil i use, works great, runs cooler, and i must say it is the best oil i have ever used......theres my bit on synthtic oil..lol
    1985 Tri-Z-

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  6. #6
    bonkers_200s's Avatar
    bonkers_200s is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    What wieght is everyone running, and do you make a switch from winter to summer?
    If you can't fix it with a , its an electrical problem.

    85 ATC 200s--Ratted out and not running at the moment

    86 ATC 200x--All stock other than the handle bars

    85 ATC 250es Big Red -- Just got new rubbers and she wants to ride!!

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  7. #7
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    i run the 0-40 in the winter(works phenomanal) and 10-40 in the summer
    1985 Tri-Z-

    Quote Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
    Just hit the Freakin Gas and Hold on!!!!!

  8. #8
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    i dont even know the difference..my 185 burned so much i just bought the dollar general 75 cent quarts and put in..10-30
    trikes owned:
    85' 200m - sold
    84' 200x - sold
    83' 185s - sold
    82' 185s - sold
    85' 350x !!! - selling

  9. #9
    HaggLE is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Like they say, oils aint oils. Old motors need old grade oil. I run 20w-50 in my trike and never have problems. I can understand you guys that like living in freezers might want to run different grade oil when its darn cold but as for "normal" weathered people 20w50 is what you should run to avoid wearing out the big end bearing. Older engines arent designed for synthetic oil, all the tollerances are designed for the old fashioned oil and will not wear correctly if you use oils that arent designed to suit.

  10. #10
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    Im a big fan of Mobile 1 Full Synthetic Motorcycle oil. We've only got two 4 strokes here to run it in now and they are both auto clutches like your 200s. Synthetics last longer and do not suffer chemical breakdown as quickly as standard oils. Before I found this, I always ran the Mobile 1 full synthetics for autos in my 4 strokes. I also got the best clutch performance out of it in my 250R until I got a billeted clutch basket, after which I couldnt tell the difference and switched back to regular cheap motor oil.

    Either way, I really doubt it has anything to do with, nor will it solve your heat problem.

  11. #11
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    i run mobil-1 15-50 red cap in my trike, no problems,,,run it in my 400 too, no problems,,,
    36 yo, Apple geek, married with kids, conservative. If you are a GUN OWNER and not a member of the NRA, SHAME ON YOU! JOIN!

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  12. #12
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    Had the chick at Honda throw a timing chain at me on the wekeend and told me
    " This is what synthetic oil did to a 400 EX "

    When i asked if Honda oil really makes any more difference !!
    Currently :

    82 ATC - 200, plain jane, almost mint. ( Sold, 03-17-2005)
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  13. #13
    HRC1 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigredhead
    Had the chick at Honda throw a timing chain at me on the wekeend and told me
    " This is what synthetic oil did to a 400 EX "

    When i asked if Honda oil really makes any more difference !!
    I highly doubt that syn oil had abything to do with a timing chain failure, more like lack of maintenance or a faulty chain tensioner. I would love to hear the reasonong how it failed because of oil. lol

  14. #14
    HRC1 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaggLE
    Like they say, oils aint oils. Old motors need old grade oil. I run 20w-50 in my trike and never have problems. I can understand you guys that like living in freezers might want to run different grade oil when its darn cold but as for "normal" weathered people 20w50 is what you should run to avoid wearing out the big end bearing. Older engines arent designed for synthetic oil, all the tollerances are designed for the old fashioned oil and will not wear correctly if you use oils that arent designed to suit.
    I have never herd of nor read anywhere about engine tolerances being changed based on what oil is to be used. World famouse stock car engine builder smokey yunick said he was testing synthetic oil's 30 years ago and my book that statment came from i bought 10 years ago. He also stated mineral based lubricating oils are about as antiquated as the model-T. I see absolutley no reason to not use full syn other than it's price. It is far superior in every way to conventional oil. But, if the bike is currently leaking, smoking, or the clutch is slipping, it will probably do so more with synthetic. I run full syn amsoil in my 350x with 0 probs. I have also seen cars 30 yrs old do the same. If you can show me anywhere where a tolerance is + or- because of the oil used, i'll take back every bit of what i said.

  15. #15
    fyi is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    I've just started to use Redline 15w/50 fully synthetic engine oil in my 4-stroke, wet clutch machine with outstanding success thus far. You can see the relevent thread here:

    http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...ad.php?t=39892

    We use similar Redline Oil products in our racing engines we build here and until I personally see a wet clutch failure or degredaded operation that is directly related to the use of synthetic oils, I'm going to continue to use it indefinitely.

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