HEEELPPP ! urgent !

**bigredhead** · 01-30-2005, 05:00 PM

The main reason i did was for a shifting problem, specially between 2nd and 3rd, ( it also does it on other gears, but more noticable on 2 and 3 ) you pull up on the shifter and you can hear a " CLACk clack clack "like the gears are not rengaging... most times you let off and pull it again and it engages, but the hair on my neck stands when that happens and i gotta fix it....

DADS on .org suggested checking under the cover for that pin and while in there i noticed this shifter arm wheel being loose... so before i re-assemble the thing i'll replace it.

That " Right angle output shaft... " can you elaborate please ? do you mean the shift shaft that the foot lever mounts to ?

Would you have any suggestions as to what else i should check while i'm at it !

**Dirtcrasher** · 01-30-2005, 05:46 PM

Yep, as I said that wheel will allow the drum to rotate and forks to move a bit preventing proper full gear engagement so that should be the problem. However, I'm willing to be that if it's been clanking around for awhile that you may have some shift drum and or fork pin problems because that wheel allowed them to smack around. Those parts are unfortunately inside the SX center cases. All you can do is try....

The output shaft is the part that the swingarm driveshaft attatches to and has the rubber boot. Lots of guys pull it out to take the motor off or to access the swingarm and then a small thrustwasher falls down and you have a similar clanking, clackity problem as your missing a .030 thick washer on the countershaft or right angle output shaft.

I bought an SX with no 1st gear and clackity noise. Found the washer in the bottom of the case but the damage was done and the drum and forks were junk. The previous owner admitted to removing that countershaft.

After many previous hours of investigating that problem I can now split an SX case and throw it all in a box and get it back together no sweat. The SX has to have the most crap in that motor of any cases I have ever split!!

**bigredhead** · 01-30-2005, 07:53 PM

Cool. thanks for the info ! much apreciated !

BTW, i had to remove the frame mounting bolts fro mthe engine, except the very bottom one ( it was in there good !!!!! VERY good ! ) the nut came off the the pin was wedged in there harder than the tools i would have needed ! ( impact gun ?? )

So all but one bolt came out , we tilted the motor a 1/8 " and got the cover off. The Drive shaft was left in place , boot , and all.

( Considering opening up boot to check for thurst washer !! ) But not right now !... LOL

**Dirtcrasher** · 01-30-2005, 08:10 PM

That thrust washer will never be seen again unless the cases are split. Nothing is in the rubber boot except for a driveshaft.

That whole thing unbolts from the motor and out comes a 6" long countershaft. Then there is a big hole in the motor in which you can see all your gears and forks etc. It's actually a good way to sneak a peak in there but ONLY if you know what your doing.

Again, I only mentioned it - that thrust washer may be in there just fine. Especially if the problem started while you were the owner and you never touched that housing.

**bigredhead** · 01-30-2005, 10:21 PM

Good point.

I've e-mailed the previous owner and he says he never had shifting problems before... and i don't recall 100 % but i seem to recall this only starting a few rides after i got it. so .

I"m going to call Honda tomorrow and ask their service dept what they think of all this, the play in that wheel is aprox 1 to 2 mm's, but only in one direction ( you can spin the wheel and the play is still only on the 2 same sides. )

The swing arm bearings have a small amount of play in them as well, so i'm replacing them too, along with the entire set of 5 for the axle bearings, to go with the new brake drum and shoes.

That will take care of the entire rear end for quite a while ! and i'll know what i'm riding on !

**bigredhead** · 01-31-2005, 10:33 AM

oh.. hey a few quick questions on putting this back together properly.

I have new gaskets to put in , the old ones are obviously shot. Any tricks to removing baked on gaskets without harming the machined surfaces ? I've tried carb cleaner and a plastic scraper, but man.. they're stuck on good !

Should the new gasket be put on dry, or should it be oiled or prepped in any way ?

And once i do get it all back together.. should i lock-tite the case bolts ? or simply put them in dry ?

The frame mounting bolts were full of white aluminum oxide dust.. i'm cleaning them out and plan to grease them up good.. any suggestions or things i should know ? lock-tite on this too ?

sooo many questions.. so little time.. ugh.

**Trikeaholic** · 01-31-2005, 11:09 AM

be generous with gasket sealant called "aviation gasket" by loc-tite or permatex. Its like a sealing glue that will hold the gasket in place and not harden like silicone that could find its way into oil passages and starve a part of the motor. Loc-tite threadlocker is not necessary for the case bolts, definatley anti-sieze the thru bolts that hold your motor in the frame! Just tourque down the case bolts correctly little by little in the proper sequence! and you will have no problem.

**bigredhead** · 02-06-2005, 01:54 PM

Update :

Ok. Was up a bit late last night but finally got it fixed up.

Problem was indeed the shift stopper arm, that top riveted wheel needs to be tight and mine had about 1/16 th play in it.

Had a HELL of a !@%@%% time getting the spring in place ( that red arrow ) for anyone who ever has to do this, thread the bolt abut 1/2 way and with a pair of needle-nose you can. after 10 tries.. yeah clymer you joke of an instruction manual... argh.. then thread it in all the way.

The 2 spring loaded arms on the gear shift cam were a pain to get in place as well. but i managed, almost lost a spring in the tranny.. -phew.

Thread: HEEELPPP ! urgent !

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