UUUGGHHH i'm not even sure myself anymore,i here different things and find different answers when i search ,i'm confused...Originally Posted by HondaATC
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UUUGGHHH i'm not even sure myself anymore,i here different things and find different answers when i search ,i'm confused...Originally Posted by HondaATC
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I think TimSr. and Oldschoolin86 just like to argue with each other! lol j/k
1985 Honda ATC 250 Big Red
"Ugly Betty" from the handlebars back it's a
1982 Honda ATC200es, from the handlebars
forward it's a 1988 Honda TRX 300 Fourtrax.
"If you wanna play, you gotta pay..."
Maybe after the debate rages on to about 5 pages I can email it to NGK with the main high points and ask them to explain :P
hahah ya i wonder if they'd reply..
you guys are crazy, unless the motor is modded, use exactly what the manual says, if you have a polaris almost all sleds have a decal under the hood by where the aircleaner touches the hood and it tells you all of the owner serviceable info...you wont burn up any cylinders if you take care of your sled and clean your carbs a couple times a season and dont hold it completely ridiculously wide open winding out like crazy across a lake for 10 mins....most of the blown cylinders i see happen because drunk morons crank them skyhigh until they pop, or people dont ever clean the carbs and one of the mains gets a little plugged and leans out and burns a hole in itself...
i had a 89 skidoo safari a couple years ago and beat the crap out of it, and kept my motor tuned up with stock-heat plugs, champions to be exact, and i cleaned the carbs every month or so and i never had a problem, never let me down, and started on the second pull every time no matter the temp....
1985 Honda ATC250R drag trike with s/t kit and full drag CR hybrid motor and drag chassis...
1986 Honda ATC250R daily rider fully modded engine, +4 swinger,etc...
1997 Polaris Storm 800 triple, boyesen reeds, dg individual silencers, 240 studs, 123mph on radar...
lol, I hope it doesn't get to be 5 pages. I learned in my last debate that if someone doesn't want to learn it's not worth debating with them.Originally Posted by HondaATC
Here's my last comments on this one. It's pretty clear what it does and how that insulator works. Put a piece of ceramic between two pieces of steel, heat one side and see what happens to the other. You guys gotta remember, tip temp is relative to combution chamber temp.
'02 Honda 416ex - A seasoned blend of 11 herbs and spices
'04 Honda Recon - The yard machine and snow plow
'88 Honda CR250R - Another chapter in my torrid all terrain affair
Im open to learn, thats why Im still, waiting for an explanation. We agree with NGK, "Plugs dont generate heat, they can only remove it". Im with you so far, but after that Im lost. If somebody can explain to me why a plug that is such a wondeful heat exchanger and dissipater that it can cool something a hundred times its size, then why wouldnt sticking a few extra unconnected plugs in a head be the ultimate cooling system? And if they have to be connected to a coil to dissipate the heat, what does the electricity do that makes it such a powerful heat reducer? Im open to learn anything, but I need a simple logical explanation that makes sense. Ive explained my theory and Ill answer any questions about any of the specific principles Ive stated. If anybody can give me a logical explanation to my questions, I will accept the temperature regulation theory. I will accept anybody elses theory on anything if they can give a logical answer to my questions.Originally Posted by OldSchoolin86
LMAO, you got logic in so many ways last time we debated it was silly. I'll still to my quoted statement.Originally Posted by TimSr
'02 Honda 416ex - A seasoned blend of 11 herbs and spices
'04 Honda Recon - The yard machine and snow plow
'88 Honda CR250R - Another chapter in my torrid all terrain affair
No actually when I proposed a little controlled experiment last time, that would test the opposing theory, it was met with a chuckle, glossed over, not explained or answered, and ignored just like this one.Originally Posted by OldSchoolin86
There was no theory, you just couldn't see the facts. This is why I don't see the point in debating. I'm not mad or anthing, it's just proven to be a battle not worth fighting. As far as your experiment, if you want to do it I'm not going to stop you.Originally Posted by TimSr
Last edited by OldSchoolin86; 02-12-2005 at 01:40 PM.
'02 Honda 416ex - A seasoned blend of 11 herbs and spices
'04 Honda Recon - The yard machine and snow plow
'88 Honda CR250R - Another chapter in my torrid all terrain affair
Geez sorry guys this thread that was suppose to be a simple stupid question got a little to serious..lol
Im sorry I hijacked your thread. Most motors have a range, usually one hotter, or one colder then stock, but check your manual to verify for your machine. Then experiment and use what works best within the range they give you.Originally Posted by rob0781
no problem,i'm just trying to learn about 2 strokes,i'm a little confused but with more research i'll be good to go,i haven't got a manual for the sled,i'm gonna try running 2 eights,i been thinkin i got the sled 3-4 days ago and since then it was 0c to -3c so it's been kinda warm,tonight i was out in the trails and it was -11c at that time and the machine seemed like it ran better,seemed to be a bit quicker too...could weather cause plugs to foul,and if so i wonder if jetting could be the culprit?
Its very tricky jetting for cold weather. A cold motor runs very rich, which is why you see so many fouled plugs in the winter during initial warmup. After your motor is warmed up though, the cold air will make it run leaner. Many people make the mistake of jetting leaner because of fouled plugs, and they have a problem when it warms up of running too lean. The best thing is to come up with a warmup procedure that works best for your machine. Dont rev it up when its cold. You are feeding it a lot more than it can digest when you do this. Start it, let it idle and give it very light, 1/8th throttle revs if necessary to keep it running, until it warms up, and then rev it up to clean it out.
ok.. i know i should just turn around and walk away.. but here's another opinion on the plug thing.
a longer tip would sit further into the cylinder and gets hit with bigger rush of fuel/air from the carb resulting it a difference in operating temps. ( THe whole thing about the cooling effect )
A shorter plug tip would sit higher up on the cylinder head resulting in a different flow of air from the intake and exhaust valves and thus affect the way it burns fuel and how efficiently it does it.
depending on the motor/head a longer or shorder plug tip ( hotter or colder ) works better or worse depending on the application it's subject to. High RPM's = more air .. less RPM's less volume of air and different loads on the tip.
Ever see ambers glow bright red when you blow on them ? and dim when you stop ? same idea.. you strive for an optimal temp to burn all the fuel in the cylinder as much as possible, without causing deposits/carbon.. not not too hot that it burns things up.
The incoming air/fuel from the carb is what does the cooling you guys are refering to, i personally think, not the plug itself.
Currently :
82 ATC - 200, plain jane, almost mint. ( Sold, 03-17-2005)
84 ATC - 200 ES, Jimmy-Rigged, don't ask.( Sold, 03-17-2005)
85 ATC - 250 SX, Pride and Joy, Bottom-Less Money Pit.
84 125 M - The Mini-SXnot running yet. but won't be long.
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The more people i meet.. the more i like my DOG !