When sandblasting a frame...........

[Huffa]

I think I heard you must have bolts, caps, plugs or whatever will do the job of blocking the threaded portions because the sandblasting can smooth the threads down somewhat.

Is that true?

Must you do it immeadiatly after it is blasted so it doesn't start to rust?

Any type of primer will do then?

[BIGCRIP28]

i just taped mine off then i did it.
blasting it real hard can damage the threads.
i did those big front fork extension bolts which were rusted heavily and they looked like the rocky mountains when i was done gettin all the rust off, so i replaced them.

[BIGCRIP28]

i think you need self etching primer to do a good job on bare metal.
the sooner you do it the less rust can form.

[Huffa]

i just taped mine off then i did it.

It didn't blast the tape off at all?

[Huffa]

i think you need self etching primer to do a good job on bare metal.
the sooner you do it the less rust can form.

Is that exactly what it's called on can? Who sells it?

[BIGCRIP28]

wrap it tight and dont shoot straight on the tape.

[BIGCRIP28]

i get all my stuff from carquest, im sure any auto parts store should have it.
just ask them for it.

[jeswinehart]

well i ain't no expert but i'm experianced at it. i put bolts back in the holes and on the goose neck + swing arm pivot ,,, i make up a cover using threaded rod and 2 cut outs from a hole saw and sandwich them in place to cover up the openings. the above to keep as much sand out of areas i don't want contaminated with sand or bead blast dust.
normal sandblast is not going to hurt any threaded areas but will make threads dirty ( and bearing races ) with material.
same on motors i've blasted. really didn't want to haft to flush the crap out of a motor either.

john

pic is a motor i run thru the sand blaster with holes covered up. it buffed out great and ran even better then it looks.

[Huffa]

well i ain't no expert but i'm experianced at it. i put bolts back in the holes and on the goose neck + swing arm pivot ,,, i make up a cover using threaded rod and 2 cut outs from a hole saw and sandwich them in place to cover up the openings. the above to keep as much sand out of areas i don't want contaminated with sand or bead blast dust.
normal sandblast is not going to hurt any threaded areas but will make threads dirty ( and bearing races ) with material.
same on motors i've blasted. really didn't want to haft to flush the crap out of a motor either.

john

pic is a motor i run thru the sand blaster with holes covered up. it buffed out great and ran even better then it looks.

That looks great! Let me see a pic of it all buffed out though!

[azhondagrl]

yes take jes's advice, lol. flushing out a motor SUCKS.

I left mine flat from glass beadin, i liked the look of that texture

[K1500]

Is that exactly what it's called on can? Who sells it?

Yep it should say self etching primer on the can. If you are going to use automotive paint from an auto body supply store, Dupont's version is called 615S VariPrime, it sprays nice and dries fast. It doesn't have any filling properties though, so if you have some pits you need to fill you may want to go over it with a building primer. I forget what PPG's is called but the counterperson should be able to hook you up. If you just want to shoot it with a spray can I would recommend going to an auto body supply store also and picking up some there, its usually a little better quality stuff. Happy Shooting.

[Dirtcrasher]

I use the 00 sand and it doesn't harm threads at all. If you use the coarser sand it will beat them up a bit if you hold it directly at it for a while.

[Trikeaholic]

I never worried about it, but I also did not blast any tapped holes really hard, either. After the frame was clean, I used a blow gun to blow any sand out of any crevices and then doused the whole frame in brake-Kleen to remove any oil or grease residue. once that dried or evaporated whatever, I primed and then painted, and a few coats of clear. I hate to admit it, but I am cheap and just the frames. The way I see it, the machines dont see much hardcore use, if any, so even though the paint is prone to chipping more than an expensive high quality automotive epoxy based paint or hardened enamel, it still lasts plenty long and is plenty good looking for my purposes. All for 30 bucks a frame and a few days of work, not bad I guess. Last thing I really want to do with a freshly restored machine is ride it hard enough in the worst possible conditions anyway. fields and tracks, nice trails mostly.