Help On 200x Motor Troubles

[shudup]

ok im running only a little bit of 93 right now, i have less than a quarter tank in it because i was just useing the 93 to break it in or w/e but i have a bottle of octane boost i plan on dumping some in to equal it out hopefully, i will be running Torco racing fuel when it is done though i believe its 110 octane.

i think i may have a major problem..., i just bought a service manual for the 200x and it told me that the notch on the piston is suposed to face the intake manifold...i was told it was suposed to face the exhaust manifold...so im thinking my piston is in backwards..with is VERY bad. also i think my piston rings are not in the correct places. i havent torn the motor apart yet but im in the procces, im just praying that i didnt hurt it already. my timeing might be off just a little bit aswell, because when i timed it the notch was off to the right of the window not the left...it was almost out of the window but not quite it was like right on the edge...

i will take that jetting into consideration too, im not sure if im goona run disks or not on the exhaust im going to see how it works..i heard the more disks * have the better performance thought..? is that true??

i dont think its timming if the dot on the cam is up and the line on the fly wheel is correct its fine.
you cant have it 180 out if this is correct. and if its a even one tooth off its easy to see.

jetting may be off as said before but sould still run. But the carbs are a bit of a PITA to get correct . if it stalls when you give it gas (i take it this is after it worms up and w/o the choke on ) also where is your c-clip on your needle sould be all the way twards the pointy end or one above that.
if this is too high it will bog off idle also did you replace your jets in the carb or clean them and be sure the carb itself is clean and nothing is pluged.

you can also get it started w/o the cdi cover on and have a philips screw driver and adjust the timming more advanced if it is too retarted it will bog or die if it given much off idle


if the rotor is 180 out it will not run as it will be firing on exhaust stroke so it can not be this

[shudup]

hay where in michigan are ya just noticed

[haywoodjalikme]

They say the more discs the more top end, less discs more low end torque.

I don't know if thats true but I have just the 4 discs and mine has plenty of power all around.....it would flip my 215 lbs butt right of it if I let it, and even with 4 its still pretty damn loud at wide open throttle. Although I had an open end DG exhaust on my Kawasaki Mojave and that was just crazy loud, now I have a DG RCM alloy with 4 dics on that and its a little quieter than the Xcellorator I have on my 200X but with the 4-valve engine that the Kawasaki has it sounds a little tougher.

That sound of toughness doesn't matter though since my little modified 200X with smoke my Kawasaki Mojave.

I was told once that octane booster isn't all it claims to be and should not me used, that info might have even came with some of the performance engine parts that I bought for my 200X.

Jeff

[200xadam]

im taking the motor to a friend that knows what hes doing with trikes tomarow he will hopefully help me along with all the input ive gotten from *, i might have this beast running tomarow night!,

and i live in britton michigan, thats just south of ann arbor

[Dirtcrasher]

You gotta have some balls splitting a case without a manual. I've had a hundred motors apart and I still always consult a manual. The best advice I can give anyone is to sit down and read the entire chapter on the repair your about to do. Then you refresh your memory while doing the repair but if you've already read about it seems to flow much better.

[200xadam]

yea i think i put a little too much faith in my friends some times lol, i try to save money on laybor and manuals and i end up buying the manual later...and im praying that i dont end up paying for a new piston...and the laybor to install it because if i messed it up im letting a shop do it this time lol.

im still waiting for my ride to take me to my other friends house to tear this motor down and try n figure out what my problems are....hopefully with the manual, his trike knowledge, and all the help from * guys ill get this thing running within the week!

[200xadam]

ok ive opened up my motor again and my timeing it suposedly correct, and was the whole time...there was a little bit of slack in the cam chain, my piston was in the correct way. the rings are now arranged the correct way.

but now i have a new question, when we looked at my cam we saw a small dent in one of the nobby deals ( dunno what there called ) but there is a small dent in it, is that enought to cause the motor to act up like it is??

[200xadam]

oh and another thing i forgot to mention, we think that its possible when we re assembled the motor i did buy a new cam sprocket n chain and we think that the sprocket might have been put on upsidown, so that would make the exhaust valve n intave valve open at the oposite times...could this be whats wrong..?

[200xadam]

i dont think its timming if the dot on the cam is up and the line on the fly wheel is correct its fine.
you cant have it 180 out if this is correct. and if its a even one tooth off its easy to see.

jetting may be off as said before but sould still run. But the carbs are a bit of a PITA to get correct . if it stalls when you give it gas (i take it this is after it worms up and w/o the choke on ) also where is your c-clip on your needle sould be all the way twards the pointy end or one above that.
if this is too high it will bog off idle also did you replace your jets in the carb or clean them and be sure the carb itself is clean and nothing is pluged.

you can also get it started w/o the cdi <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=cover&v=56">cover</a> on and have a philips screw driver and adjust the timming more advanced if it is too retarted it will bog or die if it given much off idle


if the rotor is 180 out it will not run as it will be firing on exhaust stroke so it can not be this

i totaly overlooked the fact that * said something about the needle in this post..i looked at my needle and the clip was twords the very bottom like one or two from the bottom i believe, so i adjusted it to the second notch from the top. this probobly effected my bogging but i dont think that it caused everything..

[short4stuff]

oh and another thing i forgot to mention, we think that its possible when we re assembled the motor i did buy a new cam sprocket n chain and we think that the sprocket might have been put on upsidown, so that would make the exhaust valve n intave valve open at the oposite times...could this be whats wrong..?

yeah that matters.. the cam lobes (the nobby things) face done when the piston is at TDC... so the dot on the cam sprocket should be on the oppisite side of the lubes....
Get it?

[200xadam]

ok yea i just remembered when we put the motor back together my friend telling me the lobes always face down so the sprocket must be on right. and would the nick in the cam cause these troubles??? the motor did run before i did this work....and i am looking for an aftermarket cam, as are you short i c from ** sig, does anyone know where to find one...??? webcam made one but there not in production anymore, and im going to check on hot cams right now....

[shudup]

yeah that matters.. the cam lobes (the nobby things) face done when the piston is at TDC... so the dot on the cam sprocket should be on the oppisite side of the lubes....
Get it?

you cant get the sprocket on wrong because you are getting the ignition timming from the cam and it can only be correct or 180 out (it will only fire on compresion stroke when rotor is correct) and it is a single cylinder motor. this means that it will always be correct and this is why they didnt use a keyway or pin so that the gear can only go one way.

kinda hard to explain but makes no dif. how the sprocket is on cam.

and also he has had it running so if there was a way to have it 180 buy the cam it would not run

[jenndnn3]

Actually there are only 2 ways to put that sprocket it on. Correctly or upside down. To not effect the cam. You may be correct that yeah the sprocket may or may not matter, but That O is there so that you know when the cams are down. The O lines up with the sprocket bolt holes that tell you where your cam position is. When you install the cam it needs to be set down so it is loose on the rockers. That puts one of the bolt holes dead top. Then when you put your sprocket on with the O where it belongs you timing is on as far as the cam is concern to that of the flywheel. Go ahead and put the O on bottom doesnt matter, but why confuse the situation? What truely matter is the cam is lined up to the flywheel. And they give you a nifty O to help with that.

[200xadam]

ok i got a picture of the cam dent...its a really crappy picture but its really hard to get in that small...n for some reason it showed up like all cartoony lookin but the dark spot is the dent or chip or w/e

[shudup]

that is what i was trying to do. tell him that it dont matter.. one less thing for him to wonder if he done wrong
hate to have im take that apart for no reason

that dent sould be ok for now (just to get it running) as it looks to be on the edge but hard to see
but id change it asap as not to mess up a rocker if it does ride in the dented area

you can get a compleat used head with cam and rocker cover off ebay for about $20 to $40