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Thread: Stretching an airbox boot

  1. #1
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    Stretching an airbox boot

    I'm giving it another shot. Didn't have any luck last time but now I'm armed with a heat gun.

    So yeah, the boot that goes from the airbox to the carb on my R. It's gotten really stiff in it's old age (no viagra needed!) and I can't ever manage to get the stupid thing over the bigger carb (38mm). I tried sticking a Corona bottle in it and soaking it boiling water and that didn't work. Left the bottle in there for a week and that didn't work. The bottle is pretty much exactly the same diameter as the carb. This time I finally have a heatgun. Never used one before. It's got 650 and 1000 degree settings on it. Only tried the 650 degree setting so far. I don't want to melt the thing or cause the bottle to break. Probably being a little over cautious there though.

    Anyway, what's the best way to get this thing to actually keep the new shape? I figured just repeating the process of heating it up with the gun, then letting it cool a few times. It's so freakin' hot here though that it won't really cool down unless I stick it in the fridge. Would that cause it to crack?

    Pointers appreciated.

  2. #2
    ATCnut is offline Got The Holeshot Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    IMHO, you want to use the heat gun to get it hot enough to be soft. I would carefully use the gun to heat it slowly. Once it is hot enough to get soft, using a pair of gloves you should be able to streach it over the carb. Once it cools down it will be tight as hell and on there really good.
    ATCnut

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  3. #3
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    Part of the problem though is I need to be able to easily get this thing on and off. I want it loose enough that I don't have to fight with it every time I need to put it on. I do a lot of adjustments out on the trail so heating it up every time is not an option.

    I just finished heating it up for the third time on the 1000 degree setting. Now it's sitting in the house to cool off real good. Might stick it in the fridge once it's down to room temperature. I'll probably repeat this process a few times and see if it holds the new shape or not. Unless someone has a better idea? I'm all ears (err... eyes).

    I might get it hot and stretch it out with my hands as well like you said. Kinda worried that I might cause it to tear though.

  4. #4
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    old post

    hey ,,, you guys remember the old post along time ago about what part of a trike do you hate working on ???
    if i remember correctly ,,,, air box boots was the hands down winner of being the most P.I.T.A. part to work with. i know it got my vote of being so.

    john

  5. #5
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    How much extra do you need ? half inch .. ???

    How thick is the existing rubber ? might be able to shave a mm or 2 from the inside diameter if you have enough material to keep it strong enough not to tear.

    Any chance on making a collar to fit over both the carb and the boot ? You could have a metal ring inside the boot to keep it from squishing and use pipe clamps over the boot cover...

    i dunno.. just thoughts.
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  6. #6
    wheelie king's Avatar
    wheelie king is offline Aficionado of white surprise sauces. Arm chair racerRoostin Away
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    If boiling water will not do it, then the heat gun may not, either. If all that fails, try a custom application made from cuts of hose.
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  7. #7
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    on .org someone posted the result of submerging rubber in kerosene and it went from a shrunken state back to original.... is yours shrunk or just too small because of a bigger carb ?
    Currently :

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  8. #8
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    3legged dog used a piece of rubber connector to do this (and he actually sent me one) but for the sake of appearance I really want to get the boot on there if I'm gonna use one at all. I have been just using a Uni clamp on right to the carb since I got the 38mm carb but I'm really wanting to go back to my K&N inside the airbox. Not so much for performance reasons but versatility and a little bit extra dust protection. Would be nice to have the option of just putting the lid on if it's a little wet out. Can't ride in even slightly wet conditions with a clamp on.

    I seem to be making progress. I pulled the bottle out and it seemed to hold it's shape pretty well this time. Not done yet though.

    Quote Originally Posted by bigredhead
    on .org someone posted the result of submerging rubber in kerosene and it went from a shrunken state back to original.... is yours shrunk or just too small because of a bigger carb ?
    Bigger carb.

  9. #9
    wanta86r's Avatar
    wanta86r is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    i got my 38mm a/s from esr for 220.oo with a carb adapter ring that is pressed into the carb and eliminates this problem

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wanta86r
    i got my 38mm a/s from esr for 220.oo with a carb adapter ring that is pressed into the carb and eliminates this problem
    Do you know if they sell the ring seperately?

  11. #11
    wanta86r's Avatar
    wanta86r is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dammit!
    Do you know if they sell the ring seperately?
    i think you'd have to send them your carb unless you have a machine shop you trust. i think there is some minor machining before it can be pressed in. it is very slick however

  12. #12
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    Well if this don't work I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks for mentioning it.

  13. #13
    wanta86r's Avatar
    wanta86r is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dammit!
    Well if this don't work I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks for mentioning it.
    no problem man. it just made sense to me because you always have to take the air boot off to rejet it, and i hate fighting the rubber to get it back on. it does work great and i highly recommend th esr pipe as well

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dammit!
    Part of the problem though is I need to be able to easily get this thing on and off. I want it loose enough that I don't have to fight with it every time I need to put it on. I do a lot of adjustments out on the trail so heating it up every time is not an option
    What kind of adjustments are you doing on the trail that you need to remove the airbox boot from the carb? If it's just jetting changes, try buying different tools that allow you to get to the jet without moving the carb. If your messing with the needle clip position, usually just loosening both carb boot clamps & twisting the carb will provide enough clearance to remove the carb cap & slide. If not, simply partially remove the gastank to provide enough room. Unless absolutely necessary, I won't remove the airbox to carb boot in a fully tooled garage, much less on the trail with limited tools available. All of the above options are usually easier in the long run, even with the stock size carburetor.
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  15. #15
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    dude, just have someone push the boot towards the carb for you while you work it on with a screwdriver....i have my pops help me out and it takes 1 minute max...i dont even lube it up or anything, and i dont even scratch or rip the carb or boot...just dont be a puss with it...o ya, i have a 38 a/s.....
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