350x on dyno tonite with nitrous hit...!!

**slothminx** · 08-30-2005, 01:02 PM

yeh that must be it i cant see anything else that it can be but it comes out pink on my screen!! ohh well. ohh and on the humudity thing i was just stabbing in the dark and yeh your right why with the door open!!?? now the question to be asked is. what does the red/pink/orange hose do?

**nouseforaname90** · 08-30-2005, 01:09 PM

Maybe hes talking about the ratchet straps. Hahaha.

**slothminx** · 08-30-2005, 01:12 PM

bahahahah lol maybe well it is true the dyno would be useless without them

**Yamahauler** · 08-30-2005, 01:24 PM

The trike is red, the dyno would be useless without that.

**fyi** · 08-30-2005, 01:27 PM

Originally Posted by ATC crazy

I thought you were supposed to do a dyno run in the gear with a ratio closest to 1:1? Wouldnt that be 4th-5th gear?

You are correct; a 1:1 ratio is indeed the most accurate for determining power output at the wheels and pull-to-pull accuracy. The problem is, we don't know what gear a 1:1 ratio factor is..... Does anyone know? Does the factory manual state it somewhere?

I ordered 2 factory service manuals today so I could learn a few things about these bikes without having to bug you folks all the time.

One for my machine and one for my wife's 1999 Honda Foreman 450s 4x4. (Man that thing is huge isn't it? Geezzz!)

BTW- Thanks for the power output figure 1DEADPRESIDENT! I really had no idea what these things were rated at back then. Now I do.

Nice tech write-up on ATV ignition systems teamgeek. It appears as if these machines suffer the same fate as automobiles do when HP modifications are done. As a side note: I wonder if a stock LS6 engine ignition coil could be adapted to work on these machines.....hmmmmm. If so, they are rated at 47kv, they are "smart" and are of very small/compact size~ plus water proof. Let me know if you want to chat about this further.

**fyi** · 08-30-2005, 02:17 PM

BTW- I think what TeamGeeek is referring to is the cooling fans.

**slothminx** · 08-30-2005, 02:22 PM

woah come on thats just plain obvious if you didnt have any cooling fans when you revved the x without it moving through the air it would get cooking hot in there. every dyno has fans without question. and there orange looking. not to react in a bad way fyi but i just dont think its that obvious

**nouseforaname90** · 08-30-2005, 02:27 PM

TeamGeek is online.. he should respond!!

And the fans are orange.. not red. If that is what he is referring to. Unless its only the blower he means.

**slothminx** · 08-30-2005, 02:30 PM

it cant be teamgeek has seen the tread since i suggested the blower YO CALLING OUT FOR TEAMGEEK let us know

**TeamGeek6** · 08-30-2005, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by fyi

You are correct; a 1:1 ratio is indeed the most accurate for determining power output at the wheels and pull-to-pull accuracy. The problem is, we don't know what gear a 1:1 ratio factor is..... Does anyone know? Does the factory manual state it somewhere?

As a side note: I wonder if a stock LS6 engine ignition coil could be adapted to work on these machines.....hmmmmm. .

Will, this is someone that knows something about automotive engineering. Good sort to learn from.

The dyno measures torque at the rear wheels, not engine torque. Theres a conversion factor to approximately equate the two due to transmission losses. Its based on gear ratios, bearing friction and gear types.

Also notice how clean the garage is. We could eat off that floor.

What you see here is (probably) a "traceable dyno," which means its accurate. Transmission losses are real and important because they cost engine power.

The thing about "1:1" is that this bypasses some of the transmission power losses because the gears are not in the circuit.

The important "red things" are the FANS, The data is useless without them, especially on vehicles with air cooling.

"Useless" means "of no scientific value" because there is a large error in the test.
Engines sometimes make more power on a dyno than track because of heating effects.

Its a science called "Thermodynamics."

Engines produce a great amount of waste heat. That waste heat has a large effect on the engines power output. If the vehicle is run at above idle speed (as in these tests) the engine gains heat very quickly because it has no speed to cause airflow across the cooling system.

The fans are a rough equivalent to having the vehicle moving through the air. In larger dynos ( in engine development) the engine is fitted with a cooling system that has circulating water and places to exhaust the heat.

Without them, the dyno data is not accurate, but is still a reasonable test if compared to repeats of the test on the same setup.

The red box beside the vehicle should be the data collection head (signal amplifiers).

FYI. LS-6 coil. Yes. Ill PM you, dont want to post that publically.

**slothminx** · 08-30-2005, 03:10 PM

wow i kind of thought that having fans was standard procedure in all dynos i know for sure if our car ran without one aimed at it, it would fry in a very few minutes it needs air running through it after just 5 mins at idle. lol silly of me to think it was more complicated

. ill watch fyi's posts geek

**TeamGeek6** · 08-30-2005, 06:17 PM

Ill show you how to eliminate that problem, itll run nice and cool when were done.

**TravEX** · 08-30-2005, 10:16 PM

Originally Posted by TeamGeek6

FYI. LS-6 coil. Yes. Ill PM you, dont want to post that publically.

FYI-post it!

**toyvette81** · 08-30-2005, 10:32 PM

why do some of you keep saying 20" slicks lol the bike came with 22's on it so that means it is tuned for 22's not 20's. it will perform the best all around with 22's on it. if its stock..
the # shouldent be that skewed.... horsepower is horsepower wether its a bicycle or car and he got a pretty accurate reading, i mean if honda said 27 and he was anywhere in the 20's thats pretty accurate, the rest matters to air flow, air quality.... if it was 105 deg with 100% humidity like it is here, or 55 deg with no humidity my stuff runs alot better in the winter here when theres no humidity and its much cooler, right now its 100% humidity and 105 index most of the time

**OldSchoolin86** · 08-31-2005, 08:06 AM

Originally Posted by toyvette81

why do some of you keep saying 20" slicks lol the bike came with 22's on it so that means it is tuned for 22's not 20's. it will perform the best all around with 22's on it. if its stock..
the # shouldent be that skewed.... horsepower is horsepower wether its a bicycle or car and he got a pretty accurate reading, i mean if honda said 27 and he was anywhere in the 20's thats pretty accurate, the rest matters to air flow, air quality.... if it was 105 deg with 100% humidity like it is here, or 55 deg with no humidity my stuff runs alot better in the winter here when theres no humidity and its much cooler, right now its 100% humidity and 105 index most of the time

Tire size will change torque, not hp. Actually 22's would equal more rotating mass and that would lower hp numbers before it would up them. As mentioned before, don't forget that 27hp from honda is a crank number, not a rear wheel number.

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