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Thread: 350x Front Fork

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NASHVILLE
    --
    514

    350x Front Fork

    Bottom of fork leaking? Does it have to be removed to fix? Wasn't leaking before.
    Current Rides:

    All Red's!


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Great Bend
    --
    704
    if its the very bottom of the fork there is a bolt at the bottom that probably needs to be tightened. no more than 15-18lb-ft of torque.
    1985 KXT 250
    84 KX cylinder
    sprock racing head
    +2" Miltech swingarm
    frame mounted Rad

    1983 250R
    DG head
    290cc Big Bore
    CT pipe
    85R front end
    +1" Miltech swingarm
    2+2 axle NOS NASA
    18x10x9 Hoosiers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    South of Rochester, NY
    --
    3,470
    Quote Originally Posted by ATCWRENCH
    if its the very bottom of the fork there is a bolt at the bottom that probably needs to be tightened. no more than 15-18lb-ft of torque.
    It's a 6mm hex head.
    '85 ATC350X - "Showgirl" '86 OEM plastics/Fork boots, Rear Axle/Rotor/Hubs, Hondaline Fender stabalizer/extender, Speedo/Tach, Tank cover.
    '86 ATC350X - 'Go-Go Girl'
    '82 ATC250R - 'California Girl' - Progressive springs F and R, Hondaline HL Guard, Fairing and Speedometer.
    '82 ATC250R -'Snow Bunny' Ice Racer, Very Clean, Hondaline Fairing, custom FT tire, will put in the 300R motor
    '70 US90 'Ol'Girl" - Aquarius Blue... all original seat and tires. Resto project in the future
    '85 ATC250ES-'Workin' Girl' CMP Footguard, Hondaline Mudflaps, Speedo, HL Lens, Block Heater, Work Light, Foot Peg Covers and Cooler Rack
    '85 ATC70 - All Original

    '84 Yamaha 225DX - Durablue +3" axle, DR motor, New Plastics, Foot, Hand and HL Guards.
    '85 Yamahauler - Gun Rack & 'Nerf Bars'
    '85 Yamahauler - Nearly together and restored
    '83 Suzuki ALT125 - Pieces
    '89 Suzuki LT-4WD - Token Golf Cart

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NASHVILLE
    --
    514
    I was told the bolt and washer can be replaced with out removing the fork. True or Farse? I have new seals but will probably have to order the copper washer for the 6 mm bolt.
    Current Rides:

    All Red's!


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    s.w. michigan
    --
    6,498

    yep

    Yes you can replace the 6mm bolt with the fork intact. I would recomend to NOT jack up the front to take the pressure off the springs inside. Remove the bolt first.
    You will want to jack it up to put the oil back in that fork leg so as too remove pressure on the springs inside when you remove the fork cap.
    You sure the oil is not coming from the seal ,,,, ? Perhaps raise the fork boot and see if any oil around the seal.

    john
    Last edited by jeswinehart; 12-16-2005 at 09:58 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Minnesota
    --
    784
    The bolts on the rear of the bottom of the forks I believe is to drain the fork oil, there are allen bolts in the very bottom of the forks that hold the dampening rods I belive. Before doing any work on a fork bleed all air out of the air valve on top. I did not do this and removed the drain bolt and it was under great pressure, got my face/eyes full of ATF.

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