First Atc Build 110, 1983

[rally4x4racer]

recently obtained an old junker 110 for 50$ - tore it down to peices and am just trying to go for a solid build - nothing crazy.
I wanted to start this forum because I will need some advice from time to time.

current status - carb is trashed, valves are more concaved than a new skateboard, and the cyl & piston look decent - I have yet to take any specs. got a good seat and new maier plastics.

I am still trying to figure out where to get the seals for the motor - like the bearing seal looking things - they look like minature rear main seals - they sure did not come with my rebuild kit! I should probably call KIRK back.

Oh - and could some one please tell me where this ball goes? I took off the high low gear cover and was about to remove the gears for storage during breakdown and noticed a little ball sitting there. a check ball or something? - I want to get confirmation before I go sticking it somewhere!

also - anyone wanna give me some ideas about cutting the new valves into the heads? is this just a eyeballed process that is going to fix itself as the motor breaks in?

thanks -

r4r

[83200e]

The ball your talking about sits inside the shift fork along with a spring.Good luck with your restore.Put some pics up as you go.

[rally4x4racer]

thanks - i figured it went with the spring - so basically, the ball sits inside the shift fork giving the sping a convex surface to rest on? I will post some some pix when I figure out how to - ha ha -

r4r

[rally4x4racer]

I saw A diagram and it shows the ball on top of the spring. Now I am confused -

and on the valves - I can not seem to find stem guides anywhere.

beatrice cycle online has a lot of cool stuff for decent prices tho if anyone is interested.

If anyone wants to tell me where to get valve guides I would appreciate it.

MENTAL NOTE - I stuck the drive chain in some carb cleaner because it was nasty. turns out it was a DID chain with rubber O-rings in it. the o rings are all droopy!

I guess thats the nature of the business.

r4r

[thefox]

The ball goes on top of the spring then it sits in the shift fork. This way the ball will press on the shaft and there should be a grove that the ball can lock into for hi and a grove that it locks into for low. For the valve guieds I think you can still get them from Honda.

[rally4x4racer]

your right - valve guides, seals and caps for seals from honda are still available for about 75$ total. Imma keep looking at that price - that is lame.

thanks for clearing that up about the ball - makes total sense now. I appreciate it.

any one have ideas about how to bore the intake tube out a bit? I can reach the front of the openings with a grindstone - but im wondering about the middle..... is there a flexable grind bit ?

thanks - r4r

[rally4x4racer]

I busted the valve guide hole in the exhaust part of the head today - so im waiting on another head -

but I am serisouly wondering about this connecting rod. looks like the motor got really hot at some point. the tip of the rod that holds the piston all the way down towards the base of the connecting rod is discolored. down by the crank where it stops it has an extra ring of blueness. looks like it got super hot at some point.

Should I run it anyway? I can get a used one cheap - but I am wondering if this wouldnt make it harder. - will it? like it has been heat treated- or is it too risky? I will try to post a picture of it soon.


any experiences like this?

r4r

[Tri-ZNate]

I dont know as you can really bore out the intake. I spent a long time looking at mine and there are only two ways I can think of.

1. Sand paper it (not worth it IMO)
2. Be really careful with a dremel.

[MichiganRedneck]

r4r, in the future, i recomend cleaning your chain in nothing but kerosene. NOT carb cleaner.

[thefox]

your right - valve guides, seals and caps for seals from honda are still available for about 75$ total. Imma keep looking at that price - that is lame.

I think the valve seals come in the versa gasket kit, I am not sure what you mean by caps unless you mean the big cap/cover things which you can get used. Did you check your valve guides? They don't need to be replaced all the time.

[ride_red_95]

can you post some

[rally4x4racer]

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\moroso\Desktop\new downloads\ blue rod[/IMG]

did that work? I tried to post a picture of the blued connecting rod... someone might have to explain to my DA how to post a pic .

thanks for the advice on the guides... i knew i was being anal.. ha ha
also i believe your right about the seals and stuff coming in the kit.

hey ride red - i tred to post a pic for ya- but theres not really any pix except of the build going on. I am serious I got this thing out of the junkyard - so bad when i get done it will be pretty but i will have like a grand in the POS lmao.

if it works I will post one of the junker in its junk yard state !!

r4r

ps - I knocked the springs out with a socket - how do i get them back in? yes - this is a serious question * pretty funny tho

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, with the springs knocked out, put the valves in the guides and see if they feel like they have alot of slop in them, if they do, get new guides. It would be best to have a shop do your guides and grind your valve seats. If you knock out the guides, you can strip out too much aluminum and the guides will never fit right again. Try rotating the connecting rod by hand and see how it turns, is it too tight or binding. Wiggle it side to side, if there is alot of slop in it, it would be best to replace, but that means splitting the cases and a total teardown. It can get complicated and expensive real fast sometimes.

[rally4x4racer]

hey - i was going for a total teardown - just because im sick like that - not because i know what the hell im doing! I just went and checked the bottom end - the bearings are smooth on the connecting rod but there is a little play from side to side. I am not sure what your defining as lots of slop... but i could measure how much the pin end of the rod moves side to side if that help. it seems like it wiggles a sixteenth of an inch or so (less) - but I am still wondering about the color of the rod..
If someone tells me how to post pictures I will show you guys the rod - its nuts

and i learned my lesson with guides when i stuck a punch thru the head and cracked the damn thing.

thanks to all who had part in this so far.

[Vealmonkey]

When we worked on the old vw heads, we heated them up first in an oven, around 450 degrees for 15 minutes or so, just make sure the heads are pretty clean so you don't hack off the old lady or set off the smoke detector. The local fire department doesn't like responding to non fires. And the punch you use needs to fit the hole for the valve guide snugly and not be of a bigger diameter than the guide itself, causes nasty problems.