First Atc Build 110, 1983

**DeePa** · 02-25-2006, 02:48 AM

pick up a cheap new chinese 110 motor on ebay...thats your cheapest bet

**rally4x4racer** · 02-25-2006, 11:06 AM

i noticed

the haynes said heat the sucker up to 215 degrees F - so I did, and your right the old lady was grumblin because it stunk up the house.

if i have to do it again I will make sure its super cleaned first, oil it for a few days and puch the temp towards 450 - thanks for the ideas.

is that not enough temp to cause warpage?

**Vealmonkey** · 02-25-2006, 01:15 PM

It will come back to shape when it cools. The idea is the aluminum expands slightly faster than material the guides do. Try heating them 8-10 minutes since the 110 head is smaller, but you want to expand the aluminum enough so when you tap on the guide it comes out alot easier and doesn't take so much aluminum material. If you do them cold, they either crack or take too much aluminum with the guides. Just try the hotter temp for 8-l0 minutes. And remember, do not put the hot head into water or anything like that, let it cool down naturally. If you cool it too fast it will embrittle the aluminum. When you go to put the new guides back in, Heat up the head again and drive them into place. Once the heads are cool, make sure the guides are not loose, if you can turn them by hand, they are too loose. If you are going to all the trouble to replace the guides, you should probably replace the valves also, you usually can find them on ebay cheap.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-25-2006, 05:12 PM

Originally Posted by DeePa

pick up a cheap new chinese 110 motor on ebay...thats your cheapest bet

whay are you saying that? because of the rod? I have a bid on an 81 motor just in case i totally screw this one up

yeh - VM I was planning on replacing valves and springs ..they are too cheap not to! I do not know about rocker arms.. further - I do not even know how to measure the rockers for wear. so i guess i will just use the best looking pair i have.

anyone know of a swappable connecting rod that has more throw than stock?
I would like to get one and grind the seams off it and polish it -
Since it has one rod it will not have to weigh the same as the others - but is there are any precautions to take - to keep from throwing the rod off balance - or is that even possible?

ps - someone tell me how to post a picture

**thefox** · 02-25-2006, 05:32 PM

Originally Posted by rally4x4racer

ps - someone tell me how to post a picture

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...ad.php?t=31055 this should help

**rally4x4racer** · 02-26-2006, 01:16 AM

thanks fox.

I think i am doing this wrong for a lack of tools - but the piston measures 2" and 30 thousands of an inch at the top of the skirt. at the very top of it is worn a bit and measures a bit less. overall between mic' n the cylinder and the piston the most I could come up with is a 15 thousandths " difference. the piston has some lower skirt wear and a bit of upper (above top ring) wear. what I am trying to figure out is what size is this thing.. lmao. I would guess i should probably blast the fins on the cylinder and then try to hone it to the next available size (.25) over. so I have .10 worth of honing to do.

here are my two questions for the day them imma post a pic of this rod

1. can I use a brake hone? hope so cuz thats all i have. and I would think a bottle hone would be sloooo if thats what is used anymore

2. is this the standard size piston? it says honda on it and on the other side it has 2 r then Z/943.

if you have a clue give me one.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-26-2006, 01:24 AM

this is what i started with. 50$ worth of junkyard delivered to my door.

oh - and my half heat treated rod. im still wondering if i should run it....

**Tri-ZNate** · 02-26-2006, 02:18 AM

well at least I know my cyclinder studs arent the only ones with rust

. That connecting rod should be fine, I dont see anything physically wrong with it.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-26-2006, 12:15 PM

dratv lists the piston spec as

(52MM/STD/PK145) (52.25MM/.010"/PK146) ( 52.50MM/.020"/PK147) (52.75MM/.030"/PK148) (53.0MM/.040"/PK149)

so converting my measurements - i gather around 51.6 or 51.7 MM on my piston.
It is stock - I did not realize the piston wear would make it lose girth - altho it makes sense.

so I am about 4 mm shy of a perfect fit - (15/1000)

should I get the .010 over size and lightly hone the cylinder leaving a little play -
or the .020 over size and hone until it fits ?????????

i told ya i needed help!

**thefox** · 02-26-2006, 12:45 PM

Is there scratching on the piston or cylinder? That is one sign that you need the next size. Also when you measure the piston and cylinder it needs to be within a size +/- a value given the repair manual, I don't have the book so I can't help you there.

When you do go up a size you have to get the cylinder bored out. The reason you have it bored is that the cylinder doesn't wear perfectly evenly so it is no longer round but slightly oval, boring will bring it to the next size and round where your hone would leave it oval. You use the hone when the cylinder is in spec. The hone will roughen up the cylinder just a little so that oil can stick to it.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-26-2006, 01:39 PM

well - if i have to get it bored out i might as well go .025 over yea? but wouldnt that cost a bit? there is a deal on ebay where they offer the piston, rings, and reman cylinder for like 130$ but you have to give them your old stuff.

I guess I am off to figure out which way will cost less.

anyone knows of a machine shop in central FL that can do this let me kno.

i did notice a bit of ovalness to the bore when i mic'd it. was not bad at all tho.

thanks again fox

**thefox** · 02-26-2006, 03:02 PM

Generally you want to bore it the next size so yes I would go .25 over stock. The kit on ebay looks ok or you can just buy the new piston and have your cylinder bored, most shops charge about $50 to bore the cylinder if you supply the piston. Just call around to any machine shops and motorcycle shops if they don’t do cylinder boring they should be able to point you to someone who does.

There is a piston kit on ebay now for $45 BIN http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...spagenameZWDVW and dratv.com has a kit for $47. If you haven't seen dratv check them out they have good prices on a lot of parts.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-27-2006, 02:07 AM

thanks again fox..

you seem to be the only one talkin to me here - lolz i appreciate it - and pat too - i been talking to pat since i started this build -

I have not found a shop close by yet but hopefully my volkswagon buddies can refer me - I did drop a 375$ order with dratv tho and got a .030 piston kit with a cobra exhaust and lots of misc. maybe tomorrow i will get that cyl blasted and find a shop to bore it.

So I hear..... that taking the big balloon tires off the 110s makes it a pretty rough ride.... but they look soooooooooo much better- whats a guy to do? I dont care much about a rough ride - hell its an ATV! Big boobs are uncomfortable for the mommys but we all like them

and skinny chicks....... nevermind you see what i am saying. whats best for raising hell?

thanks

**rally4x4racer** · 02-27-2006, 02:09 AM

btw fox - is that a pic of you in your avatar? and if so - what the heck are you riding? thats funny.

**Vealmonkey** · 02-27-2006, 02:54 AM

Hey 4x4r, Where in Orlando. When I was in basic in the Navy, I was in orlando. I was there for Nuke school too. When I got out of the Navy, I lived in Melbourne for 2 years. Sad to say, I lived there when the shuttle blew. I still have a piece or 2 of it, it washed up on shore for quite a long time. Not one of my better memories of a great place. I got a buddy down in Hollywood just souith of Lauderdale. I love Fl, except for the crazy storms. I sent you some pictures of my trikes. And if you have trikes you've got to get an atc70. Put a 90 engine in that and have some fun. We've been known to have 70 races and pit bike races too.

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