First Atc Build 110, 1983

**thefox** · 02-27-2006, 11:34 AM

Originally Posted by rally4x4racer

btw fox - is that a pic of you in your avatar? and if so - what the heck are you riding? thats funny.

lol, that is me on my old atc 70, the little trikes are so much fun!

**rally4x4racer** · 02-27-2006, 04:08 PM

VM I am in easat ORL by UCF.. from looking at FOX's avatar I think a 70 would be fun - but I have to get a bigger trike first... got to have a well rounded herd ya kno?

Is is not tuff on those old mini's for us full grown men to be rompin around on them? ha ha - i got my kids an MR50 but swore I would never ride it since it would be hard on it ( I am 175lbs )

looking at FOX's avatar makes me wanna do it just for the picture tho

what kinda speed am I lookin at on this 110? new valve train .030 over cobra exhaust UNI filter when I get done with it? just wondering - i havent even ridden a trike ion years - except my old mans gullwing - and that doesnt count.

......waiting on parts and labor

**Vealmonkey** · 02-27-2006, 09:59 PM

A good 40 miles an hour or so. It will seem faster with the single drum brake and no suspension, LOL. You can change the sprocket and get some more speed on he top end, but you'll lose a little on the bottom. A hotter cam makes alot of difference, and with a hotter cam you can go to bigger jets, more speed all around. Depends what you want to do. If you want real power you would need to go bigger bore and higher compression and even a stroker crank would help. Speeds above 50mph are not uncommon when you trick one out. The stroker crank treatment is cheap though. You can mill your heads down a little and that will give you a higher compression but you have to watch valve clearance. If you get the compression to high, they are hard to pull start and you have to use a racing fuel.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-28-2006, 10:13 PM

someone stop me if this sounds off - I am looking at rims and tires from kirk - and two rear rims (stock) is like 50$

tires for the rear will be 20 tall 11 wide and 8 dia. for the front imma use the 22 tall 11x8 for better handling. all turf tamers - i wanna keep the handling and ride as much as possible but do not want these ballons.

any input?

**Vealmonkey** · 02-28-2006, 10:40 PM

How crazy do you want to get. If you want to spend the money go aluminum rims. If you don't want to spend the money, look on ebay. You can use the old 3 bolt yamaha rims, same bolt pattern and one piece rims. I don't know what the rims are in the kirk catalog. I think there is another catalog place called "chapparal", don't know about the spelling. Having a bigger tire in the front than in the rear might look a little goofy to you. You might want to run all 3 20s' or all 3 22s'. It would be easier if you just had one size tire if you had a problem. People sometimes use innertubes wih the honda 2 piece rims. I've heard mixed reactions about the innertubes. Guess it is just a matter of preference. How is your build coming along? Do you have the frame and everything all painted up? I'm waiting for some before and after pictures.

**rally4x4racer** · 02-28-2006, 11:06 PM

its going slow brother - waiting for dratv to send me my exhaust and piston kit and all the other knick knacks so i can turn around and mail the cylinder off for boring ( need the piston ) also waiting on a replacement head from ebay

other than that everything is going good. just going to do the clutch and clean the hell out the motor - maybe not even crack the case - dunno yet. it will be a bit before i get it all together - i wanna make sure i get it right the first time.
as soon as there is a major noticable difference i will post the build specs and costs and some pix for sure. i got a RC nitro traxxas truck for the meantime heh heh

i do not mind the front tire being different - just want whats best for look/sport/safety. remember my kids will likely ride this thing in the future since it is smaller. so i gotta keep her semi normal.... (this time around) i know i will have to sacrificefor fun and s safety peed for comfort and all that i am just trying to fiugre out what the best way is - the turf tamers are square - ( looks alot better to me) great for the rear but wont it make the front hard to steer? (harder than the ballons since they have more footprint?)

would it look alot better if i put the 22X11x8 turftamers on it? they are the same size just - NO BALLONS * this is not a birthday party*

most important to me is NIBLE - i want the bike to steer good, and have decent suspension. I am willing to make a little sacrifice on suspension to get rid of the balloons. so....20's all the way round? should i get a rounded 20 for the front?

you think it will look retarded with square rear tires and a rounded front? lol it really would if they were different sizes huh?

**firefirefire90** · 02-28-2006, 11:21 PM

If i was in you're position, I would do all that you are doing now, buy a powroll camshaft, Put 18" tires on the rear and a 20 up front. Hah may sound goofey but then lower one sprocket size down in the front and the rear sprocket one size up to compensate for 18" tires. With the 18" tires, you will be abe to slide around realy well.

EDIT: Then again, it really matters what type of riding you will do. I would rather have nice small tires in the rear for me, but that is just personal preference.

**thefox** · 03-01-2006, 12:15 AM

I wouldn't go smaller the 20" tires; it sits low enough to start with. For the back I would get some nice used 200x rims and hubs, you can get them fairly cheap and they are an aluminum that will shine nicely. Then I would put the 20" turf tamers or whatever you want on them. For the front I like what Danteross77 did, he has a Honda 250R front tire/rim/hub on the front with atc 70 axle spacers. The narrow front tire will help the steering and it looks cool

. I bet you could do the same thing but run a 200x front rim/hub so you have the polished aluminum all around.

**rally4x4racer** · 03-01-2006, 11:33 AM

i just checked out new 1983 200x wheels - those are sweet.. imma keep that in mind but not going to go that crazy right now - I read that post your talking about an PM'd the guy about it - that does look better and I am certian it handles better to.

im not going to cause anymore work than I already have to do to get this thing running and looking great.. for now

the bolt patter on most of the 200x is 4/110 right? mine is the 130 ..
so - 20" huh fox? I was not planning on going down to 18" yet - so 20" on the rear and should i go 20" ballon on the front or how much difference is that footprint going to make?

**rally4x4racer** · 03-01-2006, 01:09 PM

BTW - anyone have a website that has ID #'s verification on it. for carbs, heads, frames ect? I use to ref one for SBC and Mopar stuff..but im new to this arena.

the head i just got has a E 4 5 on it and the one i had was an E 2 5 - I am trying to figure out what kind of difference there is.

I am guessing there is not much differ between an 83 and 84 head - but how do i really know what is on a bike this old? I know the later 84 heads have different valves cotter(keepers) and retaining plates.

**Vealmonkey** · 03-01-2006, 01:58 PM

r4r, The straight edged. like a turf tamer, are a little tougher to turn, no big deal for you and me, but could be a bit tougher for younger riders. You can always see if danteross could make you up a set of those triple trees he made for his hardtail. You might have to supply him with some kind of core parts and pay him some money, or maybe buy the pieces from him outright. The 200x hubs will bolt right onto the 90\110 axle, just make sure to do some wire brushing and use some anti-sieze, good idea for any hubs really. As far as the exact differences on the heads, you have me there. I knew 83-85 were all cdi, so they should work, now I'm hearing the earlier 110 points heads will work, but I haven't had a way to confirm that yet. I think the cdi parts will bolt right onto the earlier heads and vice versa. I just picked up a points 110 head off ebay for my stroker 90, hope it works. I also just bought a nos 79-80 110 engine off the bay, cool huh? As for the late 84 engines, Honda does a model year for the bikes, like the cars, a late 84 should be an 85 model year. If you could get one of those 200x front end set ups for the 110, you could have a juice front brake. The brake items are usually the most expensive unless you have a buddy that has a junker, excuse me, parts bike. Good hunting, Pat.

**rally4x4racer** · 03-01-2006, 04:01 PM

thanks for the inf0 - yea VM i saw that motor runnin on ebay - lol i think you outbid me on that head. I tried to get that one motor in miami - it was an old 81 110 complete but it went for a bout 50$ shipped - considering that is what i gave for the wheeler itself and I do not really need it for the build i figured id wait until i raid a yard someday.

I ordered the 20 x 11 x 8 tires and the new steel rims for the rear from Dennis Kirk.. and got a carb kit and some main jets for my hawk ect ect. . I went ahead and got the same tire for the front rim (20") because what you said VM - good point .. im not a wuss... so what if it is a bit harded to turn.

I got my head in today and as soon as I get my cyl sent off I should be ready to try to get it all together. How long does DRATV typically take to send something out? I did not get a shipping email or nothing - havent even been charged for the stuff - kinda weird... my ordernumber shows everything tho

got me.

**Vealmonkey** · 03-01-2006, 07:48 PM

r4r, I'm sorry if I bid against you, I thought you had your head already. You'll have to pm me your ebay name so I'll know beter next time. I'm hoping to see some pics soon. I'll have to be getting some more of my aftermarket frames done soon, I'm waiting for a friend to pick up a bandito frame with a 110 that I kind of threw together on the cheap. It isn't much to look at cause the guy wanted the 85 110 fenders and tank on it but it does have an aftermarket front end. If he don't pick it up soon I might clean it up some more and put it on here for sale.

**rally4x4racer** · 03-02-2006, 12:32 AM

my ebay ID is dodgepepsitruck

better watch out from me .... the only time you ever see my name is at the last minute

i dont care if you out bid me and then email me and rub it in my face - thats the way it goes. heh... i emailed this guy that sniped me one time and called him a @#$#% .. but i know its fair game..

hey - how do you keep these steel cylinders from rusting out? should I have it powdercoated? or maybe just put some engine enamel on it. bead blast wasnt touching all the rust - i had to use the oxide. now I just dont wanna do it again.

maybe by next post i will be able to put up a picture of the mini X tracks im building in the lot behind the house.. got a few ramps started and a pit going.

**Vealmonkey** · 03-02-2006, 01:33 AM

r4f, Not rubbing your face in it. I just went back and checked, you were the first bid and then no activity again. I'll keep an eye out for you next time. You got a track behind your house, I might have to stop by on the way to go see my buddy in Hollywood. I'll bring the harley and something 3 wheeled if I do. I'll warn you before I come. You aren't making your track in that old sinkhole are you? LOL Pat.

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