bolt in or weld on subframe connectors for my mustang?

**dizasterzrfun69** · 02-27-2006, 08:47 PM

I figured out our new scanner so heres the cam card.

**dizasterzrfun69** · 03-03-2006, 07:01 PM

Anyone? I tried to subscribe to corral.net but they havent responded to any of my emails. Great customer service

Kevin

**cliff2302** · 03-03-2006, 11:07 PM

call comp cams and i'm sure they will be happy to tell you what it is. I have limited cam knowledge so i'm not touching this with a 10' pole

**wolfguy** · 03-04-2006, 01:16 AM

ok heres the scoop on your stang, everyones been saying about weld ins and thier right, except the best way to go, is buy the bolt in and have it welded. Trust me on that one. the reason welding is better is because it gives almost 100% efficiency. Bolts only give about 60-70. Your engine sounds good, nothing too crazy but it will move hard. The cam specs you put out would take another post to translate if you really want me to thats fine you can email me. An 8.8 rear is a good rear for those cars. The trans you have now is junk, the stock 4 cyl auto won't hold the horsepower. personnally I suggest an old top loader manual 4 speed with hurst linkage and a well built 4:11 rear, but you'll be doing about 35 in 4th at 3500 rpm, you'll also stand the car up launching. but for what you want, get a AOD it's a 4 speed auto with overdrive, your stall converter should work ok, that and the 3:73 gears will give you perfect street strip combo. Now something not covered is your control arms. Ford did a crap job of making these strong and you will literally rip them out of the car. There are many ways to go about this, obviously replacing the arms for stronger performance brand, and they also make support plates that hold the mounts to the body of the car that get welded on the inside where the back seat would be. This makes the car nice and strong but also makes it stiff. A stiff mustang unfortunately means no traction especially with the lousy weight ratio these have, so get yourself some cheater slicks BF Goodrich drag radials they're street legal you'll hook up and you won't flop around at the end of the track. The front springs have to get changed, the weight difference is huge so good job with those springs you got. That set up will give you a strong reliable toy easily capable of 13 possibly a high 12 if you play your cards right. Any other info you can email me, I know these cars pretty well which is why I drag oldsmobiles

wolfnrocket@hotmail.com

**dizasterzrfun69** · 03-04-2006, 10:43 AM

Well the tranny definately isn't a stock for a 4-cyl. I have the 4 cylinder engine and tranny sitting next to the other tranny and they are nothing alike. The tail end of the tranny by the output shaft is totally different looking (and shorter) than the 4-cyl. and the bell-housing is also not a seperate piece on the "race" tranny like on the 4-banger. He also mentioned the tranny has a 3400 or a 3500 stall speed. This guy had a supercharger on it before I got it but he sold the supercharger. So i know it will run, just dont know how good.

Kevin

**jason85atc250r** · 03-05-2006, 12:56 AM

just letting you know Ford Motorsports makes 3.90's for the ford 8.8. my brother has them in his 1994 mustang GT.

he got a tubu;ar k frame and aftermarket strut bearing plates. strut tower brace that makes it handle real good . but not as good as my parents 2005 gt stock

**dizasterzrfun69** · 03-05-2006, 01:02 AM

Originally Posted by jason85atc250r

just letting you know Ford Motorsports makes 3.90's for the ford 8.8. my brother has them in his 1994 mustang GT.

he got a tubu;ar k frame and aftermarket strut bearing plates. strut tower brace that makes it handle real good . but not as good as my parents 2005 gt stock

I thought they made 3.90's but wasnt 100% sure. Maybe thatd be the way to go since i cant decide between 3.73's or 4.10's. I plan on getting a strut tower brace, just to beef it up and add a little chrome under the hood. I do like how the 05's handle too.

Kevin

**jason85atc250r** · 03-05-2006, 01:11 AM

that tubular k frame made a bigger difference than the strut brace on his car.

**badculture** · 03-05-2006, 02:21 AM

Put a Pro Charger(or any kind of centrificul super charger)on it and invest in a rollcage.
that motor was built for forced induction. Using it for a naturally asperated engine is really not getting the most out of it.
dont try the rear end if you dont know what your doing

**dizasterzrfun69** · 03-05-2006, 02:24 AM

Originally Posted by badculture

dont try the rear end if you dont know what your doing

Thats kind of what i was thinking, but $250 LABOR to have them put in? Aint that kinda high?

Kevin

**badculture** · 03-05-2006, 02:41 AM

no $250 is not that bad thats about 50 bucks an hour that is about what I charge to do them

**cliff2302** · 03-05-2006, 06:40 AM

thats what i paid and i helped set it up (with the price of the gears)

**SWIGIN** · 03-06-2006, 06:00 PM

i have 3.90s in my 94 stang..they are motive gear gears not ford gears....3.90s are a nice inbetween choise

Thread: bolt in or weld on subframe connectors for my mustang?

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Well heres a scan of the Cam card

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