bolt in or weld on subframe connectors for my mustang?

[dizasterzrfun69]

Well i've been broke and slacking off on my mustang project but now it's time to buy a few parts. It's a 90 lx, originally a 4-cyl but i'm putting a built up longrod 306 in it as soon as i get the chassis all ready for it. Should i buy bolt in or weld on subframe connectors? I have a welder so that's no problem if i go that way. Is there any certain brand i should get?

Also should i invest in a tubular k-member and tubualr a-arms? I have some lowering springs i got with the car (dont remember how much it lowers it) and i have quick ratio steering i need to install. I'm still pretty new to this performance car stuff but hey, i'm learning. I did learn that ricers suck! LOL i've known that for years and years though.

What gears should i get for the rear end and what all do i need to buy when i buy them? Any shims or anything? or do the shims and stuff come with the gears? What brand of gears? does it matter? Ford racing? Richmond? It has an automatic race tranny (still havent figured out exactly what model or whatever) with a 3400 or 3500 stall speed. I'd like to be able to drive this bad boy on the street but with that tranny, i dont know if it's possible. Any tips on what stuff to get would be great, i know theres a few mustang people on here. thanks

Kevin

[dizasterzrfun69]

oh i forgeot to mention what gear ratio should i get? Not just what brand. and as far as subframe connectors arent there full length and something else? which ones should i get? i did see some "tubular" subframe connectors, anybody hear if these are good or bad?

[dizasterzrfun69]

ok i'm forgetting everything today, i believe it's an 8.8 rear end, and i'm really trying to decide between 3.73's or 4.10's

[badculture]

go with the weld in connectors. whatever brand you end up going with just make sure they are beefy. alot of companies sell the bolt ins and ones that require very little modifications usaully all that means is you are getting a smaller sized connector which is going to flex more. the ford 8.8 is a good rear end a lot of guysare using them now. are you going to do away with the c-clips and buy good axles? as for gear ratio it depends what you want to do with the car(street/strip?) What size tire are you going to run. Either way there is not that much difference between a 373 and a 410. you are talking tenths of a secound in the 1/4.

[200x Basket]

wolferacecraft that is all you need. well that and a bucket of cash!!

[1984kxtTECATE]

for the mustangs, weld in sub-frame connectors are the way to go. Like stated before is it going to be a drag car or a track car. If it is a track I would go with 3.73, tubalar a-arms, 17 or 18" wheels and some low profile tires all the way around. You want to make sure you you brace the engine up bay up also if you are going to drive it on the track, make sure you support and brace the shock towers, trunk area, underneath although you got the subframe connectors for that. the 8.8" rear is good, but the 9" is better.

[kxttecate]

I would go with the weld in connectors. I had a 90 LX 5.0 and had weld in connectors. My car was a 5 speed and I had 3.73 Richmond gears in it. With the automatic you can definitely get away with 4.10's and still be streetable. If it's gonna be mainly a track car you could even go more. Can't remember about shimming. I didn't put the gears in, I had a shop do it. If your motor is only going to be a 306, the 8.8 will be fine. Just beef it up with some heavy duty axles. Unless you have some extra $$$ to blow, I think the tubular k member and a arms would be overkill at this point.

[dizasterzrfun69]

well i want it to be a car i can drive down to the store, or i can take it to the drag strip and woop arse. I guess i want the best of both worlds. I would like it to handle good around corners and stuff too.

[dizasterzrfun69]

chris is it? (200xbasket) since your so confident in wolfe race craft, which subframe connectors would best suit me? they have only 2 kinds for the mustang from what i can see. The $79 standard tubular weld-in style or the $225 through the floor subframe connectors. Which ones would be better? I know it's only a built up 306, but if i ever decide to put a bigger engine in will the $79 tubular subframe connectors work alright? I know that if you go cheap on parts then your going to do more damage than good and kick yourself in the arse.

My problem is, i work for my dad and he has me on "part time" so i'm basically going week to week for cash. I know i need to go to college or get a real steady job, but $600 a week is pretty good for a 19 yr old. i was hoping to save up some cash and then go to college or whatever, buuuuuuut i found the mustang that i now have and i got into 3-wheeler world and so basically my money isnt getting saved. but.. back to the subject, should i go with the $79 or the $225 subframe connectors? Are the through the floor subframe connectors alot harder to install?

As far as gears go, i'm still undecided between 3.73's and 4.10's, but whichever i choose, do you think i could put them in myself? i bought 2 different ford manuals that talk about it i think but i dont want to risk tearing something up. I just cant see paying the local speed and custom shop $250 LABOR to put them in.

I had a friend stop buy today who hadnt seen or heard anything about the car, then we started talking about it and he's like oh it's gonna be bad arse, it's so nice and i cant wait and this and that so now i'm even more anxious to get-er-done!

Kevin

[dizasterzrfun69]

for the mustangs, weld in sub-frame connectors are the way to go. Like stated before is it going to be a drag car or a track car. If it is a track I would go with 3.73, tubalar a-arms, 17 or 18" wheels and some low profile tires all the way around. You want to make sure you you brace the engine up bay up also if you are going to drive it on the track, make sure you support and brace the shock towers, trunk area, underneath although you got the subframe connectors for that. the 8.8" rear is good, but the 9" is better.

Well I know these arent tires for drag racing but whats on there now are ford racing "pony" wheels. The tires are Doral SDL50 P245/50R16 they look good on it but of course, they arent good tires for the strip. For the rear end i have the (i think) stock rear axles for a 90gt. they are 4-lug which i know isnt the greatest idea but those are what i have for now. I plan on getting a strut-tower brace but what else should i got for the engine compartment to "brace" or "support" it? what in the hell do you get and do you really need anything for the "trunk area" to brace or support it?

i know I know, you guys are all thinking, this is just some kid who wants to have a fast car, real cheap, doesnt know anything about them, and is going to kill himself if he ever gets it running. Well thats not the case, I've been in love with the mustangs as long as i can remmeber, i just never really got into the mechanical end of it. I never have had to do any serious engine work, so here i am, trying to learn it as i go rather than paying someone to do it where i'd have no idea how to do any of it. I mean i know how to change oil, do tune-ups, waterpumps, alternators, head gaskets, brakes, etc.. Just never had to go into the cams and gearing in the rear ends and all that.

Kevin

[dizasterzrfun69]

heres some pics of the tires/rims and the tranny. Can anyone tell what kind of tranny it is by looking at it? Did the guy lie to me and it's really a stock tranny? Like i said, i'm learning still


Kevin

[cliff2302]

for the gears you need to figure out what motor (cam) you are going to have, what your tranny is, and what size tires your going to use. like someone said early, 373s aren't too different from 411s, so it wont be too big of a deal. just ask yourself what you will do more with the car, drive it or race it? race = 411s, drive = 373s. When you order the gears you should order a set up kit also. It comes with shims, gaskets, crush sleve, everything you need. I set my first center section with the help of someone who knew what was going on, and i will tell you it was pretty difficult. It also takes a lot of time if your not familiar with it. i'd pay the money for it if i were you. good luck, take it as you can afford it, thats what i've been doing with my cars and i'm graduating colleg ethis semester and my 64 is ready to go racing.

[YAMAHA_Jim]

This was answered but I'll put in my 2 cents, welds are stronger than bolts if the welder knows what he's doing.
My dad just put a 8.8 rear w/ARB airlocker in his wrangler/rock crawler. So far its been bulletproof against the abuse.I know the straight six isnt gonna break the rearend but the rocks might eventually.
Good luck with the stang.

[dizasterzrfun69]

well heres what the guy said is done to the engine.. comp cam, Trick-flow 1.6 Roller rockers, trick flow twisted wedge heads, 306 d.s.s long arm, .30 over dished pistons, ford racing double roller timing chain, 36# injectors, 75mm MAF and throttle body, cobra intake. Thats what he wrote on this paper when I bought it. Here is all the info off of the cam card, seriously can someone tell me what it all means? I really want to learn!

Grind#: FW 3307R /3309F HR114.0

Intake Exhaust
valve adjustment HYD HYD
Gross Valve Lift .507 .507

Duration@
.006 tappet lift 273 283

valve timing Open Close
@ .050 INT 2 BTDC 42 ABDC
EXH 55 BBDC 1- ATDC

These specs are for cam installed
@ 110.0 Intake Center Line
Intake Exhaust
Duration @ .050 224 234 Springs required
Lobe Lift .3170 .3170 Valve Spring Specs Furnished
Lobe seperation 114.0 With Springs


This thing sound good? LOL
Kevin

[dizasterzrfun69]

wow that little chart didnt come out right, hope you can still read it!