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Thread: Can you show me where you fill an 85/86 Z's tank from?? and other questions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Ok, I get it now. Is there any sign I can check for to see if the impeller on the Z I may be looking at has failed. Like, can I check to see if it has been failing for awhile and leading the top end to be be overheating? If so would it just be like checking the impeller itself to see if it has any slippage?

    On average how long do you think the original impellar would last w/ out having the pin through it? Im just curious as Im sure the Z I am talking about probably doesnt have that mod and I want to get a feel for the top end cond. w/ out tearing into it.
    1983 250R ~ 1984 125M ~ 1990 POWER WHEELS!! trike

  2. #17
    Mosh is offline I'm the one with all the 2 stroke around here! The day begins with 3WW
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    in most cases,the water pump will fail and just take out the top end all together.it will not be a come and go thing. a compression test will give you a good feeling for the top end integrity. mine has a fairly new top end and i have 170 psi of compression on mine.the best way to deal with the pump,is to just yank the little cover and look at it.you should not be able to spin the green part with the bike in gear shut off.i would just take the thing apart and do the mod and a new seal and be done with it.
    Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...


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  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Dorset United Kingdom
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    My Z still has the original green impeller. So they do last, but who knows how long it will be before mine takes a dump. I know there are some guys working on billet replacements. Even if there $100 I think there well worth it as thats cheaper then having to replace the top end. The seals are also prone to failing. Mine was old and cracked. Ive got a shee one in there now and it fitted perfectly. But they are a little troublesome to get in the recess.
    85 Tri-Z "Rumble Bee"
    85 250R "Red Rocket"
    83 200X "Flat Tracker"

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Rittman, Ohio
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    Im lucky if I get 9 months out of an impeller, or maybe a year with a pinned one.

    The easiest way to check the impeller is to simply remove the radiator cap, start the bike, and look in there for coolant flow. It will be obvious. If you having a working thermostat, which is exteremely rare, you wont see flow until its hot enough for the thermostat to open.

    Taking the imepller cover off is easy, but requires draining the coolant. The visual coolant flow check can easily be done in the field with a screwdriver.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Poplar, WI
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    Ok. Sounds easy enough then. Just a couple last questions:

    -after the impeller goes, how long before the top end is fried?
    -if the topend goes, typically what needs replacing on it? Like the piston, possible rebore, rings and the needle bearings?

    Thanks
    1983 250R ~ 1984 125M ~ 1990 POWER WHEELS!! trike

  6. #21
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikezilla
    Ok. Sounds easy enough then. Just a couple last questions:

    -after the impeller goes, how long before the top end is fried?
    -if the topend goes, typically what needs replacing on it? Like the piston, possible rebore, rings and the needle bearings?

    Thanks
    There is no real time period before you lose a top end, its just a matter of overheating. When its overheating youll get a top end rattle sound and it will start spitting coolant out the oveflow hose. Shut it down right away, and let it cool down before restarting. I had one go out on at an ATV Rally, and had several miles to get back to the truck. Id start it, baby it riding at low rpms, and shut it down when it started spitting. I got it bcak, no problem with a few cooldown stops on the way. On other occasions, Ive had them go during a race, I didnt stop, and things didnt always turn out so good.

    A failed impeller does not directly cause top end problems. Overheating does. If you learn to recognize overheating, and diagnose impeller problems quickly, you should not lose a top end to an impeller failure.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikezilla

    KINTORE:
    This caser you refer to....are talking about splitting the engine case (highly doubt that one though) or is there a specific case which houses the pump that you need to split? I assume KINTORE that you are referring to the pump used to circulate coolant??

    Thanks,
    -Confused

    Yep, dont split the cases, just the right side cover, Here are some pics for ya-
    And I got the shop to just install my seal, I buggered 3 of them.
    and fyi, my impeller has gone for like 20 years same one, so they arent too bad. But tim puts like a gillzion miles on so
    waterpump, thats the shaft we mean=

    Heres one of the whole cover with the pump in-

    In the process-

    And just to add a word of warning, dont let this happen to you
    Happens when you kicker case nails for sidecase and BAM!


    Hope this helps!
    RPFLU member and co-owner.
    Hardtails is all we do.
    #NOLINK
    #MAKEHARDTAILSGREATAGAIN
    #SUSPENDTHIS

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Orange County, CA
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    Wouldn't the red light on the headlight case tell you if your bike is overheating?
    1985 ATC 250R
    1986 ATC 200X
    1986 TRX 250R

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Poplar, WI
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    Thanks for the pics, they all helped alot. I have noticed in the past the protrusion on the case and hacve always wondered what was under it...now I know That all seems easy enough to fix and do n/p, Ive just never had a water cooler or wrenched on a Z. I have heard a bunch a people mentioning a bunch a ruined seals....what makes them so hard to put in?

    Thanks
    1983 250R ~ 1984 125M ~ 1990 POWER WHEELS!! trike

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikezilla
    Thanks for the pics, they all helped alot. I have noticed in the past the protrusion on the case and hacve always wondered what was under it...now I know That all seems easy enough to fix and do n/p, Ive just never had a water cooler or wrenched on a Z. I have heard a bunch a people mentioning a bunch a ruined seals....what makes them so hard to put in?

    Thanks
    Whenever I did I always slipped off the seal and nailed it, causing a tear= rad fluid in the tranny Its a nice feeling dropping the oil and finding its golden not milky. When its done right it holds for a long time, I had to replace mine cause I got a new OEM ride side cover. Yah they are dirt simple to work on, I changed a clutch with no idea how! Now I know.
    RPFLU member and co-owner.
    Hardtails is all we do.
    #NOLINK
    #MAKEHARDTAILSGREATAGAIN
    #SUSPENDTHIS

  11. #26
    Join Date
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    that little red light is hard to see in the daytime! and half the time the break hose and throttle cable ,crossbar pad are in the way Ive thought about moveing the light to the air box cover!

  12. #27
    crackshot's Avatar
    crackshot is offline Worthless, would be a vast improvement. Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan raffa
    that little red light is hard to see in the daytime! and half the time the break hose and throttle cable ,crossbar pad are in the way Ive thought about moveing the light to the air box cover!
    What about putting a loud high decible piezo buzzer on there. A little audio would be better than a light I would think.
    You can keep eyes on road!
    1980 110
    1982 250R
    1985 200s
    1985 250R
    1985 350X
    Parting out...
    1983 250R
    1984 185s
    PM me for parts



  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    overton, PA
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    if the top mount fuel tank is an idea i have one possibly for sale. i bought it and no longer need it.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Poplar, WI
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    Ok, Thanks for all the info folks! Im sure Ill have questions if I get it, but I havent got a PM back for like 3-4 days so I DOnt know about it so much anymore
    1983 250R ~ 1984 125M ~ 1990 POWER WHEELS!! trike

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