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Nah, I was talking about the rear of the seat to the fenders. It has the 2 plates up front with the bolts that secure the vinyl to the side of the fender but what secures the rear of the seat to the fender?
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Ok, I know what you are asking. I have a Honda Shop Manual that dealers had. I found the page you would probably like to see. I will scan it and post it once I get the scanner working with this computer. For now I can explain it. There are two threaded studs that are mounted to the rear plate in the seat. It should use a 6mm nut to secure the seat to the fiberglass. If it is like most of the US90's in the world they are gone. They tend to not take much to break off when removing or remounting the seat. Anything else just ask. I should have the page scanned within an hour.
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Thanks. I appreciate it. I have both front seat mounts but was clueless how the rear of the seat was attached to the fenders. If it is what I'm thinking I may take a strip of aluminum and quicksteel 2 bolts through it to do the rear attachment but I need to see your schematics first.
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I am unable to get the scanner working tonight, I hope I can get it going tomorrow and post it. From what I read you know what it suppose to be there.
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More of an educated guess than knowing
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I will be updating my build posts today with pictures, I have added a seat, 6 pack rack, different front wheel for better handling when I need a ride, and I have an oil cooler that just needs mounting.
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I read on here that a CT90 sprocket will work on an axle, has anyone done this? I can get a 40 tooth. I plan on using 20 inch tall tires on it, currently I have 18 inch on it now. Will I have enough power with 22 inch tires when I decide to use my Pro Wedge 2's on it?
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Been reading the forums and looking at options. I will get the pictures of the motor up today. With the cb750 conversion, do I just need to locate a piston and cylinder or do I need a head also? I have an extra 90 motor sitting in the shed that if I can build a rocket I would use that one. I don't have access to machines currently but could a Dremel be used for this. I am thinking ahead to the summer when I have nothing to do, just getting all my parts in order along with my plan.
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Someone years ago did a manual clutch conversion on your trike. Very nice. Also you have a extended vented dipstick, also very desirable. A 134 bore will not make your 90 a rocket, but it will make it better. Shame you still have the hi/lo gearbox though, that is a very performance limiting factor there. Too bad you can't find yourself a cl90 engine and switch it over all the way so you could get rid of that hi/lo gearbox. I can't remember what piston gives you 134cc, but I know that you have to have a sleeve and you have to bore your piston out for the sleeve to be installed and you have to have the spigot, the spot where the cylinder slides into the engine cases enlarged for the bigger sleeve. You really have to look around to find the bigger bore pistons with the sleeve. I haven't seen one in awhile. The last sleeved big bore piston kit with a stroker crank, I snatched up on.
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This is a wicked motor. I had it out last night in the snow and it moves, the only thing limiting it was I only had 18 inch flat track knobbies on the rear that have more power than I ever ran them with before. I have a modern axle coming and I plan on putting a 40 tooth sprocket on it from a step through 90. I think for now I will keep it the way it is and once I have everything I need it will get the complete overhaul. It does leak a few drops of oil from the head cylinder gap so I willl need to take the top end off. Then I will find out what I do have in the top end.
I read on one of your post that a vented cam cover was needed, when I bought the motor I had a vented cam cover but I took it off to prevent dirt from going in. I am a bit lost on how to route the tubing, I know how to do the oil cooler through the head, just route it in and out for now, but do I need to put the cam cover back on and run a tube down the same with the vented dip stick. The dip stick says BAPP on the side, is the clutch set up a BAPP?
To eliminate the Hi Lo, would I need to do a complete tear down or can I switch covers. I have an old 90 motor from a CM91 or CT90 that is more of a boat anchor. The guy took the motor apart down to the last nut and bolt so I have alot of the internal parts.
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Nice build! I've got a 90 I'm in the process building now.You should try to get an aftermarket frame.There a tad bit longer and stronger.I'd also like to find one of the vented dipsticks.
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What type of 90 you building? A built up motor or a rebuild? I am looking for an aftermarket currently, I heard they require a longer throttle cable so that would be another part to locate. 3 wheelers always need something. The vented dip stick is nice but hard to check the oil with due to bumping the edge when checking and when you need to put some oil in you need to remove the whole unit and then put it back in without getting dirt in the motor while using a screwdriver.
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