Is this a bad idea or what? All I have to go by is hearsay. Supposedly takes longer for the rings to seat on synthetic..![]()
Let me know if you've done it.
James
Is this a bad idea or what? All I have to go by is hearsay. Supposedly takes longer for the rings to seat on synthetic..![]()
Let me know if you've done it.
James
Dont do it. 80% of break in is in the first 20 min while wearing down the hone. you wont get a good ring seat. use regular oil and run it hard
I got nothing...
I run no synthetics these motors were ment to run on them, I know a guy that just bought a cadlliac who changed the oil for the first time using synthetics and blew it up with 4,600 miles on it, that was my decideing factor
IMO Musta done something wrong or run the *Edited**Edited**Edited**Edited* out of it....4600 isnt really even broken in yet on a car.....as for syntetics in bikes, For intial break in no, afterwards. Giver, Do NOT run it hard during break in, especially if your using a wiseco piston, Start it up, let it idle and get to opertating temp, Turn off, let it cool. retoque the head, start it up take if for a little spin.......keep it under half throttle, then let it cool. check the torque on the head.....then you should be pretty allright to go....And ALWAYS at all TIMES.....let the bike warm up idling properly for at Least 5 mins, Your Cylinder+piston will last Much longer if it has sufficiant warm up time.....Originally Posted by bryan raffa
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1985 Tri-Z-
Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
Cool, cheap oil for break in and Amsoil afterwards.
thats probley why it blew up it wasnt broke in. Ill have the facts on why tomorrow. dont get me wrong on this, oil has come a long way but in some motors it does more damage than good.Originally Posted by My trike Sucks
Last edited by Bryan Raffa; 05-11-2006 at 11:19 PM.
The only way i could see doing more dammage then good ( in bikes) would be clutch slipping issues......As for cars' any of them should be able to run 100% without a problem..........Originally Posted by bryan raffa
i would like to know how he blew that caddy up....lol
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1985 Tri-Z-
Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
I need to add here that you need to use motorcycle specific oil. It is all in the additives and automotive oils do not play nice in your bike. Make sure the oil is ment for wet clutches if using in on one!
Different oils act on clutches in different ways. I personally like Motul 5100 semi-syn on my manual clutches as it gives a very positive feel when shifting. I found the full-syn to be more mushy.
As already stated never use syn on break-in. I use dinosaur for the first 500 km or so. When assembling the motor use lots of assembly lube or WD-40 on the piston and it will burn off. It is very important to NOT let the engine idle. Run it at about 3000rpm or better. A light trail ride for 30min is good. Also no excessive RPM or lugging. Let the engine completely cool and then re-torque the head and check valve clearence. Also on these 4-strokes dump 50 mil of oil in the valve caps before start-up.
Im in the same boat, just about to get my motor together next weekend. So I guess the amosil oil for 10 bucks I bought aint the stuff I need then. But i broke in my other Z with it, no problems, hmmm!
RPFLU member and co-owner.
Hardtails is all we do.
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for a good engine break-in procedure go to www.ctracing.com they have a good set of guide lines that I am going to use when I get my 200X engine back together
1985 KXT 250![]()
84 KX cylinder
sprock racing head
+2" Miltech swingarm
frame mounted Rad
1983 250R![]()
DG head
290cc Big Bore
CT pipe
85R front end
+1" Miltech swingarm
2+2 axle NOS NASA
18x10x9 Hoosiers
Well this guy here says to run it hard. Hes talking about 4 strokes.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Very interesting read and i think all will think twice about breaking in a motor easy.
I got nothing...
this is what happend, syn oils are so good that when it heats up in a motor it flows like water so when the guy changed the oil he lost the oil pressure because it didnt have the right viscosity, my buddy owns a auto shop changed his oil in his dodge truck and the oil pressure was 50- by the time he drove 20miles the pressure was on 8!... he said he would never use it again. molble 1 is the worst!!!!!!!!!! just be careful in what you use it in and watch the oil pressure guage. Amsoil is by far the best!Originally Posted by My trike Sucks
does all this appy to a 2stroke top end rebuild? cause i just rebuilt one of mine and i got syn. in the tank and in the tranny.oh well, at least it was just a first over bore, if it blows!
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I got a roll a quarters an making change !
dont think it applys to 2 strokes as mutch as automotive or 4 strokes where good oil pressure is needed. Still dont use it to brake in a motor tho
Since this thread starts with the words "break in a motor" its pretty hard to specify a break in procedure without knowing exactly what that means.
Two stroke, or 4 stroke? Top end, bottom end, clutch or entire new motor? Times vary greatly depenidng on exactly what you are breaking in.
As a general rule, synthetic oil that meets mfg. specifications of the vehicle it is being used in is fine for break in. Do not get "synthetic oil" confused with "oil additives" which should never be used during a break in.
As for a two stroke top end break in, use the oil and ratio your carb is set up for that you will normally be running in the machine. Vary the rpms. Dont let it idle or scream for extended time. Momentary cleanout blips are fine. It takes less than 30 minutes to seat rings on 2 stroke, so go take a nice 1/2 hour trail ride with varying rpms, and your normal fuel and youll be fine.