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Thread: Break In Motor With Synthetic Oil?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Goderich, Ontario
    --
    125
    First off that posted article only deals with break-in of piston rings. There is a whole lot more then just rings. Usually a owner adds cams or have valve work done at the same time as pistons and rings which don't like full revs when new. I recommend a very similar procedure as the article only I don't go as far as 100% RPM. I do agree the slow break-ins just don't work (the reason why no synthetics) and idle just doesn't cut it. A good trail ride at 3000 RPM and above after warmup works as good as anything out there.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
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    3,658
    Quote Originally Posted by bryan raffa
    dont think it applys to 2 strokes as mutch as automotive or 4 strokes where good oil pressure is needed. Still dont use it to brake in a motor tho
    Sorry Brian but you're getting all kinds of bad info. Synthetic is actually better at holding viscosity at higher temps. There is no way that when up to full temp you're going to loose 40+ lbs of pressure. That's caused by an engine full of loose bearings. Mobil one does have a little problem but it's a small one, they rate the weight a little on the high side but it's not really much to worry about. Other then that it's one of the best oils you can run. I promise, you won't blow up a motor because you ran synthetic even if it in the break in period. The only down side to running synthetic in a new engine is that the rings can actually take longer to seat.

    So if this is a 4-stroke I'd at least run the first ride with dino oil and then I'd switch to synthetic. This is the best way to insure that you get a proper break-in. Also in a 4-stroke you never want to let it idle to break in, the crank just doesn't toss enough oil at idle. If this is a 2-stroke then use the synthetic and follow what TimSr said.
    '02 Honda 416ex - A seasoned blend of 11 herbs and spices
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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Newfoundland
    --
    5,280
    Ok sorry fellers. Breaking in my 2stroke Tecate. Rebuild meaning new rings and crank bearings/seal.

    So Amsoil is fine to use during break in? To get the rings to seat I mean..??

    Ok, get it all together, mix it up and run it for a half hour trail ride then let it cool. Crank the head bolts back down to spec and then ride it like you normally would?

    James

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Rittman, Ohio
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    6,276
    Quote Originally Posted by BigGreenMachine
    Ok sorry fellers. Breaking in my 2stroke Tecate. Rebuild meaning new rings and crank bearings/seal.

    So Amsoil is fine to use during break in? To get the rings to seat I mean..??

    Ok, get it all together, mix it up and run it for a half hour trail ride then let it cool. Crank the head bolts back down to spec and then ride it like you normally would?

    James

    Exactly.........!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ontario, CANADA
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    4,538
    Thank you Tim, you have saved me a headache like normal.

    Ill half to let ya ride my newly formed Z at TF, think you can handle all the yami power?

    See ya in what, 25 days?
    RPFLU member and co-owner.
    Hardtails is all we do.
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Newfoundland
    --
    5,280
    Sweet guys. Thanks for the help with this.

    James

  7. #22
    daputz is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    a proud cheese head
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    207
    Just saw this thread............been there done that

    With regular dino oil (on my 2 strokes) I have hit top compression within 2 15 min heat cycles. I once tried to break in an engine with full syn (redline) after 10 hours it went from 140 psi to 160psi.................after 20 hours it topped out at 180psi (what the cyl and head were cut to run at)

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