Anyone ever put seals and bushings in a BACKHOE CYLINDER?

[Dirtcrasher]

Hey guys,
I need to rebuild my cylinders. In some it's the dust seal only, others the oil seal and some need cup seals as well. I've been asking questions and I'm sure I can do it. Of course I'll relace the works in each if I open them up. Now, will this cylinder bleed itself after I'm done or do I need to prime it?? Of course I'll avoid the 25000lb rock until I've worked it up and down for a bit. And it is ok to smooth out some scrapes in the chrome rod with an oil stone?? I don't want to rechrome a yard machine. Any tips are appreciated!! Thanks

[KASEY]

cylinders are easy to repair , if you have all the tools to do the job ,, there just bigger is all , do you have a local hydraulics shop to get all the soft parts??? ,, is it a metric machine ? old or real old? the only problem i have ever run into is old cat style with a big nut on the end of the rod, sometimes you have to cut the nut off if you don't have a torque multiplier,, how big a machine are you workin on??? cause i have a 75,000 lb MS-300 with a 54" bucket and i can't pick up a 25,000 lb rock the bucket and thumb won't open wide enough ,,,,thats a BIG rock,, dual acting cylinders don't have to be bled out either , the air will end up back in the res very quickly

[Dirtcrasher]

Thanks I'm glad someone has done this. The machine is a 1969 Dynahoe Backhoe Loader Detroit 3-53. The caps unscrew real easy as I tried a couple of them. They are also dual acting - I did think that they'd bleed pretty quick. I'm more interested in smoothing some of the nicks in the chrome without damaging a larger area than necessary, I'm not sure if I could just use a rounded oilstone? Shafts are 2.25" and 3.5" Strong machine 18,000 lbs. I just need to stop leaking so much oil on my track! Any tips are appreciated.

Thanks

[KASEY]

THE only thing about the shafts is that if the chrome is damaged it will rust everywhere you touch up the roughness , its not to bad if you make sure those cylinders are closed when ever you shut her down for a extended time, . if you get then smooth enough it shouldn't hurt the seals either unless they are real bad or deep then every time the rod goes out it will take a little oil out with the low spot,, does it have the old chevron style or a poly pac seal? the advantage to the old chevron packing is you can tighten it up a little at a time and keep it from leaking longer even if it gets damaged ,, whereas the poly pac will start leaking and then there is no way but replacement ,,,,,,, the only other fix is to rerod it and that can get a little spendy if your on a budget,,,,,good luck

[Dirtcrasher]

Thanks for the help! I've already got some rusty scratches but these seals are old and leak bad. I'll just smooth up the big scratches. It has seals similar to our forks - oil and dust seal but no packing I can tighten. No rechroming for a travk building machine. Here's one of my jumps.