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Thread: Tri-Z 490 drag bike

  1. #331
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    Got it back tonight just got home and snaped a few quick ones. Ill get some better ones tomorrow. thats me and Ritch Daliey the owner who also took a few picks of his own for the web site,that he plans on doing more with. This winter its comeing off and going back for plateing along with the jug for a complete new port job. Tomorrow I'll get pics of the inlet and how they machined the groove for the o ring. And thats the spark plug wrench, Witch is just a craftsman socket with a handle, It works perfict!....Tomorrow I will get it fired up!
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  2. #332
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    few more pics!
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  3. #333
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    Nice setup...Like an anaconda snake or something. What did they end up charging you for that setup? Hand-built pipes look really trick. I would just get some high temp clear coat to spray over it. The weld stripes and cones look awesome!
    4 Strokes are NOT the wave of the future!

  4. #334
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    Oof, I wouldn't want that. You must be using it JUST to drag then I presume? If so, that rocks!
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  5. #335
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    its getting a light coat of 1,200 degree ceramic paint tomorrow just to keep it from rusting and will blast off easly when they plate it.

  6. #336
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    I still say go with clear. I have seen pipes like that chromed but I think they look much better raw. imo. Plus it will transfer heat better.
    4 Strokes are NOT the wave of the future!

  7. #337
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    well its getting ceramic plateing form dynoport. So this will be fine for now. You want your pipe to hold heat and not cool down fast.. It makes your throttle response crisp.

  8. #338
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    Anyone got any pics of murphy's oil soap used on a pipe??????

  9. #339
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    when are you gonna do some test runs?
    Charlie Don't Trike

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  10. #340
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    glad its back, now for the testing.....
    their work is excellent, but, i have never, ever seen any kind of pipe (drag) look like this, it has to many bends in it for a drag, i know its supposeed to be torque pipe but i dont understand why it didnt come out looking like a "normal" drag outframe, there silencer is the same one i have on the my zilla, trinity made the same one , i would try to find a stock used yz490 pipe on ebay to compare its performance
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    FASTEST Tri-Z on The Planet...MAKE A NOTE !! and the SECOND FASTEST, WRITE IT DOWN AGAIN!!!

  11. #341
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    Its all in the length of the pipe in certin spots. the head and the cone.. it could look like a cork screw and still perform awsome as long as the mathmatical parts are built right.. no leg burns for me!! and its rock solid..try standing on your pipe and see what happens..LOL and testing will be done in a big hay lot..all i have is front brakes and i have a feeling the front wont be on the ground too mutch.

  12. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan raffa
    Its all in the length of the pipe in certin spots. the head and the cone.. it could look like a cork screw and still perform awsome as long as the mathmatical parts are built right.. no leg burns for me!! and its rock solid..try standing on your pipe and see what happens..LOL and testing will be done in a big hay lot..all i have is front brakes and i have a feeling the front wont be on the ground too mutch.

    2 stroke pipes are an art form in themselves. Wetline timing is everything. If WL time is off, you have just a boat anchor.

    If anyone is in doubt, take a flexible tape and measure from the head to where the pipe necks down tight just before the silencer. Compare that measurement to a stocker and I bet it is close. Just my .02. Bill
    Charlie Don't Trike

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  13. #343
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    here's some classic art work for ya maggiedone by the same guy and this is what the plateing will look like when done..
    Last edited by Bryan Raffa; 04-10-2007 at 10:40 PM.

  14. #344
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    looks killa !
    Charlie Don't Trike

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  15. #345
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    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    It looks "different" because most all drag pipes are made for top end. One of the ways to make a top end pipe is to make it taper down very hard and short after the expansion box. Where as raffa's here has a long gradual taper. It produces stronger (but slower) negative and positive waves, thereby helping evacuate block the cylinder better then a "normal" pipe. The downside with the stronger pulse is that it travels slower then the weaker (faster) one, which means it can only work up to a certain RPM range that is almost always lower then the the short taper ones. In other words, up to probably 5 or 6 thousand this pipe is gonna kick ass, but dont expect to be getting any higher then that with it.


    In addition to that, some pipe are the same diameter up to the taper outwards. These are OK for confined areas, but pipes that gradually taper out from the very beginning like raffa's pipe are a much better design. As long as the "bends" of the pipe are made in such a way that there is not an extreme angle (ie a 90 degree bend with 2 pieces) it does not change the pipe properties.

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