Yes, I would pull the cam and rockers and inspect them. It is not too hard to do and can be done with the head still on the engine and the engine still in the frame.
Yes, I would pull the cam and rockers and inspect them. It is not too hard to do and can be done with the head still on the engine and the engine still in the frame.
1984 Yamaha YT 60 Tri Zinger(current project)
1983 Yamaha YTM 200 (rear suspension kit)..... long term project
2004 BMW R1150R
1972 Honda CT 70
2007 Lifan 110
Originally Posted by thefox
Oh i know, it's just take out two bolts and a metal bracket, pull the cam out, and take two stud's out for the rocker arms. I think thats what i'm going to do is take all the parts out of the old head and put it in the replacement head. but right now i'm going to have to live with it for a few months till snow hits, because right now i need my bike for hauling wood out of the woods for my wood furnace in the house, and wood stove in the garage. But thanks man for that little bit of info on the cam's. I would of never thought of it. I was thinking the timing chain or the valves where getting bad.
Fox can I get a new bearing for the primary? It does seem to slip untill you give it a little more gas then it locks up and goes. Like going over tree roots, and ruts in the woods if you pump the gas to keep the rpms up it works the best. If you try to just go over the rough stuff at one speed I feel a lot of slipping. Idk what any of this means. Mabee a new bearing in the primary, and discs in the secondary?? I will look for a new head to find some new rockers, and compare them.
Thanks everyone, 3wwf rules!
When my one way bearing went...my clutch never slipped at all, i drove it for about a month like that. I thought the one way was there as an engine brake for when goin down hills.
In my opinion its probably clutch plates, but while you have it apart, you will need to take the primary off anyway...soi check the bearing.
When you go down hills, does it freewheel?
nope when going downhills the engine acts as a break, like when down shifting a car.
so you think its the friction plates huh?
that wouldnt be so bad.
The only thing in the primary that wears out is the bearing? That would be nice for my case then.
Thats my opinion, but while you have it all apart, inspect the primary too.Originally Posted by WIkid500
Then measure your friction plates with a caliper, i bet they are below spec..
Yeah I was planning to measure the primary shoes, and housing.
So if they are bad do they make new ones? All I see for sale is the secondary parts. Or will it be a quest in the junk yard? lol
Thanks
I would just pull it apart and check them both out.
As for the one way bearing I don't think it can be replaced without replaceing the whole primary clutch housing.
1984 Yamaha YT 60 Tri Zinger(current project)
1983 Yamaha YTM 200 (rear suspension kit)..... long term project
2004 BMW R1150R
1972 Honda CT 70
2007 Lifan 110
OK, now that I have thought about it some more what Yamahauler is saying about the one way causing the free wheeling sounds right. Maybe one my bro's machine the shoes were slipping which swapping out the whole thing fixed.
1984 Yamaha YT 60 Tri Zinger(current project)
1983 Yamaha YTM 200 (rear suspension kit)..... long term project
2004 BMW R1150R
1972 Honda CT 70
2007 Lifan 110
You can replace the one way bearing in the clutch housing, you can easily pop it out by hand actually, Howdy sent me my last 1 way bearing and I popped the old one out to change and its been working perfect.
sound like it was the shoes that were probably screwed in your bros trike fox. I actually think I have a few primary clutch "cores" (shoe assembly) around here if you need one.
I think the most likely point of the problem is the secondary plates though.
But check everythign![]()
Thanks Yamahauler, and Thefox. Yamahauler I will keep you in mind if I need primary parts. I wont have time to tear it apart untill my month off from college in December. Hope it lasts through deer season.
Thanks for the help.