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Thread: S.Steel brake lines

  1. #1
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    S.Steel brake lines

    Here is way to make your own brake lines if you have access to a lathe and press.I used Rit dye to color the vinyl hose.Very easy to do. The yellow brake line was the first time I used the long copper ferrule and it had a small leak in use,so I need to change it a little to seal it up.
    Last edited by moose 53; 10-14-2006 at 01:36 AM.

  2. #2
    KASEY's Avatar
    KASEY is offline weee weeee weeeeeeeeeee ! ! ! The day begins with 3WW
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    hmmmm when i dive off a 200 ft dune at 70 mph i think i wanna know my brake line is not going to slip off ,,,,,,,,,,,,


  3. #3
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    Looks very interesting, but I think I will just stick with the one I got off ebay new for 25$ shipped. Nothing against what you did, but like stated, i wouldnt trust myself when it comes to my life haha.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
    86-87 Tecate ROCK!

    Ride fast...........brake late............and Slide the rear!

  4. #4
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    i think they look sweet. have you tested them to see what kind of pressure they will take? if there strong and hold up ill take a blue set for my 250R
    1982 ATC 70
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  5. #5
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    Didn`t intend to make them for anyone , only show what could be done and to round up parts. As far as being strong I am using commercial S.Steel brake line at $8/ft and the original line ends with silver soldered brass or berillum copper ferrules crimped in a press at about 15 tons. I did the front brake line on my KTM Tecate with no problems at all. http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...ad.php?t=51730

  6. #6
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    Thats very cool, I'm going to have to try it some day when I need a custom cable. Thanks for the tip!

  7. #7
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    Just redid my crimp tool so the line does not leak .Did a cut away to see that the new crimp is at the same spec as original factory crimp.Should be as good as original factory.
    Last edited by moose 53; 10-27-2006 at 03:37 PM.

  8. #8
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    nice work man

  9. #9
    aquapunk's Avatar
    aquapunk is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    nice work, but i wouldnt trust myself, lol!

  10. #10
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    i would TRUST IT !!!! check out the "cut" off blade in the (3) jaw chuck .....
    The MAN can throw some "CHIP'S" ..... I BELIEVE !!!!!
    How Bout It Billy ?? :-)
    "07" DR650 Suzuki Dual Sport

  11. #11
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    yeah I really like the way that turned out, I think I'm gonna make try and make one when I get a chance. Thanks for posting it!

  12. #12
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    i might make a round "crimper" and use it in the CNC ??? M11>>>>CLOSE...
    M10<<<<OPEN !!!!
    "07" DR650 Suzuki Dual Sport

  13. #13
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    Here are a few photos of the crimper . It worked out that two holes,one relieved on the edges , made the smoothest crimp.Use the relieved hole to start and finish with the full crimp hole. The new crimp tool takes about 20 tons min.

  14. #14
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    Here are the dimensions for the copper ferrule and crimper .The factory crimp was crimped .050in (.025 per side) . The dimensions of the ferrule and crimper work out to give .050 crimp on a beryllium copper ferrule, should work the same for brass. The S.Steel line is 1/8 ID ,1/4 OD (about .270in)
    Last edited by moose 53; 10-28-2006 at 05:00 PM.

  15. #15
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    Here is a good way to trim the S.Steel brake lines to keep them from fraying.Makes it a lot easier to slide in the ferrule. Hole size is 17/32in (.265)

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